A few questions
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A few questions
Hey guys, got a few questions.
Just some background: The truck has a misfire at idle all the way through the gears only when full warm. On the first start up of the day the truck runs great and has plenty of power through all gears until it loses power and misfires once it reaches operating temp. The misfire is made worse by running the A/C.
On the ignition coil connector, the wires are exposed and the connector is broken, planning on replacing it tonight so I want to know if its best to solder and heat shrink wrap the wires or if there is another better/easier way to get the best connection.
Would an O2 sensor alone cause a Intermittent misfire problem when the truck is at full operating temperature?
Is there any special routing for the spark plug wireset on a 95 4.9 300 i6? I have seen a routing diagram for 5.0 and 5.8 (correct?) but never for the i6.
On the search for a misfire problem, wanted to fix the connector and replace wire set and install autolite plugs. Will also be pulling codes tonight which i can post up. Going to bench test the ignition coil also and see if it needs replaced. I also planned to test the fuel pressure and cylinder compression tomorrow also.
If you guys can think if anything else that i should look for please let me know, i know there are a few of you out there who have worked with this kind of problem before.
Thank you,
Brandon
Just some background: The truck has a misfire at idle all the way through the gears only when full warm. On the first start up of the day the truck runs great and has plenty of power through all gears until it loses power and misfires once it reaches operating temp. The misfire is made worse by running the A/C.
On the ignition coil connector, the wires are exposed and the connector is broken, planning on replacing it tonight so I want to know if its best to solder and heat shrink wrap the wires or if there is another better/easier way to get the best connection.
Would an O2 sensor alone cause a Intermittent misfire problem when the truck is at full operating temperature?
Is there any special routing for the spark plug wireset on a 95 4.9 300 i6? I have seen a routing diagram for 5.0 and 5.8 (correct?) but never for the i6.
On the search for a misfire problem, wanted to fix the connector and replace wire set and install autolite plugs. Will also be pulling codes tonight which i can post up. Going to bench test the ignition coil also and see if it needs replaced. I also planned to test the fuel pressure and cylinder compression tomorrow also.
If you guys can think if anything else that i should look for please let me know, i know there are a few of you out there who have worked with this kind of problem before.
Thank you,
Brandon
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 146
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Error Codes:
KOEO:
522 (manual)
Cont.
327 EGR Valve Position Circuit Below Minimum Voltage
No KOER yet its dark out and im very tired! Will pull them in the morning. The problem is getting worse, turned off truck ran into the store; started back up tried to drive off and had NO power, took 45 secs or so just to get to 25mph!
KOEO:
522 (manual)
Cont.
327 EGR Valve Position Circuit Below Minimum Voltage
No KOER yet its dark out and im very tired! Will pull them in the morning. The problem is getting worse, turned off truck ran into the store; started back up tried to drive off and had NO power, took 45 secs or so just to get to 25mph!
Last edited by Kickprivate; Aug 31, 2012 at 11:19 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2010
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Changed Wires, plugs and coil. The cap and rotor look in good condition with little wear on them. The Cont. code 327 is gone but have a few new ones
New parts: TPS, IAC, Plugs, Wires and Coil. Also ignition coil pigtail was replaced which was soldered in and covered.
No KOEO Codes yet
172 Running HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean
213 Running SPOUT circuit open
411 Running Cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check
The thing that gets me is the spout has not been removed from the system during this code reset period, but the computer is controlling the timing.
The coolant temperature reads on my thermometer from the coolant about 157 degrees indicating either someone put a low temp stat in (which is offered by autozone at 160degrees) or its stuck open. Not sure how this plays into everything yet.
Was unable to test fuel pressure or compression this weekend. Not sure what direction to head in right now a little guidance would be great!
New parts: TPS, IAC, Plugs, Wires and Coil. Also ignition coil pigtail was replaced which was soldered in and covered.
No KOEO Codes yet
172 Running HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean
213 Running SPOUT circuit open
411 Running Cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check
The thing that gets me is the spout has not been removed from the system during this code reset period, but the computer is controlling the timing.
The coolant temperature reads on my thermometer from the coolant about 157 degrees indicating either someone put a low temp stat in (which is offered by autozone at 160degrees) or its stuck open. Not sure how this plays into everything yet.
Was unable to test fuel pressure or compression this weekend. Not sure what direction to head in right now a little guidance would be great!
Last edited by Kickprivate; Sep 5, 2012 at 08:35 AM.
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Hey guys, got a few questions.
Just some background: The truck has a misfire at idle all the way through the gears only when full warm. On the first start up of the day the truck runs great and has plenty of power through all gears until it loses power and misfires once it reaches operating temp. The misfire is made worse by running the A/C.
On the ignition coil connector, the wires are exposed and the connector is broken, planning on replacing it tonight so I want to know if its best to solder and heat shrink wrap the wires or if there is another better/easier way to get the best connection.
Would an O2 sensor alone cause a Intermittent misfire problem when the truck is at full operating temperature?
Is there any special routing for the spark plug wireset on a 95 4.9 300 i6? I have seen a routing diagram for 5.0 and 5.8 (correct?) but never for the i6.
On the search for a misfire problem, wanted to fix the connector and replace wire set and install autolite plugs. Will also be pulling codes tonight which i can post up. Going to bench test the ignition coil also and see if it needs replaced. I also planned to test the fuel pressure and cylinder compression tomorrow also.
If you guys can think if anything else that i should look for please let me know, i know there are a few of you out there who have worked with this kind of problem before.
Thank you,
Brandon
Just some background: The truck has a misfire at idle all the way through the gears only when full warm. On the first start up of the day the truck runs great and has plenty of power through all gears until it loses power and misfires once it reaches operating temp. The misfire is made worse by running the A/C.
On the ignition coil connector, the wires are exposed and the connector is broken, planning on replacing it tonight so I want to know if its best to solder and heat shrink wrap the wires or if there is another better/easier way to get the best connection.
Would an O2 sensor alone cause a Intermittent misfire problem when the truck is at full operating temperature?
Is there any special routing for the spark plug wireset on a 95 4.9 300 i6? I have seen a routing diagram for 5.0 and 5.8 (correct?) but never for the i6.
On the search for a misfire problem, wanted to fix the connector and replace wire set and install autolite plugs. Will also be pulling codes tonight which i can post up. Going to bench test the ignition coil also and see if it needs replaced. I also planned to test the fuel pressure and cylinder compression tomorrow also.
If you guys can think if anything else that i should look for please let me know, i know there are a few of you out there who have worked with this kind of problem before.
Thank you,
Brandon
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 146
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I'm wondering if unplugging the Vac line to the FPR raised the fuel pressure enough to give the required gas, after all the O2 said it was running lean. The surging problem has almost completely stopped and the horsepower has increased since removing the FPR out of the loop.