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Engine flush???

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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:39 AM
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Default Engine flush???

So someone today said I need to do an engine flush? Will that help the motor become more smooth?
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Old May 20, 2012 | 05:53 AM
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if that is your problem then yes....IMO your wasting your money. There is probably something more severe causing your truck to run rough than just a mere engine flush.

an oil change might do you just as well or a simple tune up. without being there no one will have a solid answer as to why your truck is running rough.


good luck.
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Old May 20, 2012 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Jmarine81
if that is your problem then yes....IMO your wasting your money. There is probably something more severe causing your truck to run rough than just a mere engine flush.

an oil change might do you just as well or a simple tune up. without being there no one will have a solid answer as to why your truck is running rough.

good luck.
Well I just did a tune up minus oil and filter because Im waiting till I can fix the oil pan seal leak
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Old May 20, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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Just run a qt of atf in the oil a few days before you change it...I do that before every oil change and i have no sludge build up at all.
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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Whoa man, ATF has detergent compounds in it that can damage piston walls, wipe the finish on piston skirts off, and ring seal may suffer. Have now rebuilt over 30 small blocks where that caused the bottom end to wipe out the coating on the bearings or seize a piston in the cylinder. If you MUST flush your oil, get the truck fully warmed up, dump a quart of the gunk motor flush in it (comes in a gray bottle), run for EXACTLY five minutes, shut off and drain oil out, and change filter. Run a CLEAN quart of oil thru with the drain plug out (and truck off, obviously), and then put the plug and filter back on and refill the system with a good quality motor oil. Slick 50 Treatment is good if you are worried about engine wear.
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepr89
Whoa man, ATF has detergent compounds in it that can damage piston walls, wipe the finish on piston skirts off, and ring seal may suffer. Have now rebuilt over 30 small blocks where that caused the bottom end to wipe out the coating on the bearings or seize a piston in the cylinder. If you MUST flush your oil, get the truck fully warmed up, dump a quart of the gunk motor flush in it (comes in a gray bottle), run for EXACTLY five minutes, shut off and drain oil out, and change filter. Run a CLEAN quart of oil thru with the drain plug out (and truck off, obviously), and then put the plug and filter back on and refill the system with a good quality motor oil. Slick 50 Treatment is good if you are worried about engine wear.
What's a good oil weight and brand for a straight six with 345k miles on it
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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Honestly in summertime I would do a non synthetic like castrol, quaker state, valvoline, etc. And probably use 10w-40 if you have good oil pressure. In the winter I would go 5w30 or 10w30, but summer with that many miles, Id stay at 10w40
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepr89
Honestly in summertime I would do a non synthetic like castrol, quaker state, valvoline, etc. And probably use 10w-40 if you have good oil pressure. In the winter I would go 5w30 or 10w30, but summer with that many miles, Id stay at 10w40
Is Valvoline really that good? I've always heard bad about it. And why not synthetic
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Old May 20, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepr89
Whoa man, ATF has detergent compounds in it that can damage piston walls, wipe the finish on piston skirts off, and ring seal may suffer. Have now rebuilt over 30 small blocks where that caused the bottom end to wipe out the coating on the bearings or seize a piston in the cylinder. If you MUST flush your oil, get the truck fully warmed up, dump a quart of the gunk motor flush in it (comes in a gray bottle), run for EXACTLY five minutes, shut off and drain oil out, and change filter. Run a CLEAN quart of oil thru with the drain plug out (and truck off, obviously), and then put the plug and filter back on and refill the system with a good quality motor oil. Slick 50 Treatment is good if you are worried about engine wear.
I only put a few miles on it, enough to heat up to normal temp and then i put fresh synthetic in and a real filter. I've never had any issues. My engine comp is perfect and i never let the oil get black anyways. I get about 6 - 7k miles before i have to change it. Slick 50 is just Teflon...useless IMO. Zmaxx seems to work very well...I picked up 1 mpg on my Scharged 347 when i put zmaxx in it. I run a preoiler system on my stang and my truck so dry start is impossible and i also run high volume oil pumps on both...
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Old May 20, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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I guess I don't know enough about oiling for this discussion. Sorry guys!
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