Engine flush???
if that is your problem then yes....IMO your wasting your money. There is probably something more severe causing your truck to run rough than just a mere engine flush.
an oil change might do you just as well or a simple tune up. without being there no one will have a solid answer as to why your truck is running rough.
good luck.
an oil change might do you just as well or a simple tune up. without being there no one will have a solid answer as to why your truck is running rough.
good luck.
Originally Posted by Jmarine81
if that is your problem then yes....IMO your wasting your money. There is probably something more severe causing your truck to run rough than just a mere engine flush.
an oil change might do you just as well or a simple tune up. without being there no one will have a solid answer as to why your truck is running rough.
good luck.
an oil change might do you just as well or a simple tune up. without being there no one will have a solid answer as to why your truck is running rough.
good luck.
Whoa man, ATF has detergent compounds in it that can damage piston walls, wipe the finish on piston skirts off, and ring seal may suffer. Have now rebuilt over 30 small blocks where that caused the bottom end to wipe out the coating on the bearings or seize a piston in the cylinder. If you MUST flush your oil, get the truck fully warmed up, dump a quart of the gunk motor flush in it (comes in a gray bottle), run for EXACTLY five minutes, shut off and drain oil out, and change filter. Run a CLEAN quart of oil thru with the drain plug out (and truck off, obviously), and then put the plug and filter back on and refill the system with a good quality motor oil. Slick 50 Treatment is good if you are worried about engine wear.
Originally Posted by sleepr89
Whoa man, ATF has detergent compounds in it that can damage piston walls, wipe the finish on piston skirts off, and ring seal may suffer. Have now rebuilt over 30 small blocks where that caused the bottom end to wipe out the coating on the bearings or seize a piston in the cylinder. If you MUST flush your oil, get the truck fully warmed up, dump a quart of the gunk motor flush in it (comes in a gray bottle), run for EXACTLY five minutes, shut off and drain oil out, and change filter. Run a CLEAN quart of oil thru with the drain plug out (and truck off, obviously), and then put the plug and filter back on and refill the system with a good quality motor oil. Slick 50 Treatment is good if you are worried about engine wear.
Honestly in summertime I would do a non synthetic like castrol, quaker state, valvoline, etc. And probably use 10w-40 if you have good oil pressure. In the winter I would go 5w30 or 10w30, but summer with that many miles, Id stay at 10w40
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Originally Posted by sleepr89
Honestly in summertime I would do a non synthetic like castrol, quaker state, valvoline, etc. And probably use 10w-40 if you have good oil pressure. In the winter I would go 5w30 or 10w30, but summer with that many miles, Id stay at 10w40
Whoa man, ATF has detergent compounds in it that can damage piston walls, wipe the finish on piston skirts off, and ring seal may suffer. Have now rebuilt over 30 small blocks where that caused the bottom end to wipe out the coating on the bearings or seize a piston in the cylinder. If you MUST flush your oil, get the truck fully warmed up, dump a quart of the gunk motor flush in it (comes in a gray bottle), run for EXACTLY five minutes, shut off and drain oil out, and change filter. Run a CLEAN quart of oil thru with the drain plug out (and truck off, obviously), and then put the plug and filter back on and refill the system with a good quality motor oil. Slick 50 Treatment is good if you are worried about engine wear.

