Oh - almost forgot. While I was under the hood (again!) I took a voltmeter and ran through a few sensors that I'd been curious about. The TPS, ECT, and MAP all checked out perfectly in range. I guess that rules those out, which helps narrow down my suspects.

One other thing that makes me wonder... The chilton book doesn't distinguish between koeo, koer, and cm codes. Looking at some sources on the net, I've seen many that show the 33 code as only koer or cm.

I'm getting the 33 with koeo and as a cm code - it's displaying 33, long pause, 1, long pause, 33. Seems like the more I try to figure out, the more confused I get!

 

I stopped by the parts store first thing this morning (it's sad that they don't even have to ask details about my truck anymore...)

Anyway... I replaced the cap and rotor, and that may have helped a little bit, but the thing still stutters like crazy. The old cap and rotor had quite a bit of wear and carbon on them, so it sure didn't hurt anything to change it.

I'd also picked up an O2 sensor just in case, and sprayed the old one with some penetrating oil before starting the distributor thing. I've been pelting it with penetrating oil for almost 2 hours now, and can't get it to break loose.

I decided to try to waste a little time waiting for the oil to work through the threads, and went for a short trip around the block (not far enough to heat it up a lot) and see how it ran with the O2 sensor unplugged. It ran a lot better - not perfect, but a lot better.

I have no idea what that means, but maybe it'll tell one of you guys with soem experience something?

Is it going to cause more issues if I drive with it unplugged until the penetrating oil finally loosens it up? Even if that takes a day or two?

 

I was at work when I posted the previous info (not bad, getting paid to work on the truck!) On the way home, here's what I encountered:

I drove it home (about 10 miles) with the O2 sensor unplugged. It ran a little better than before until the check engine light came on, then it ran the same as it has been.

I pulled codes when I got home, and it showed KOEO code 33 (as usual) and CM code 172, which is an O2 sensor code for running lean. Why the heck would it give a code like that if the sensor isn't even plugged in? It's not an old code, because I had the battery disconnected while messing with the cap and rotor.

The cap and rotor may have made a bigger difference than I thought - the truck seemed to have a lot more power aside from the constant chugging and stuttering.

One other thing that happened as I got close to home - there started to be noises coming from (I think) under the seat, which would be the tranny. Just kind of a groan coasting down a hill, and feeling like the brakes were lightly on instead of actually coasting. It also seems like the tranny doesn't kick down quite as smooth as it should - it'll pull the tach down close to killing the motor before kicking down and the tach jumps back up. I had recently lubed the linkages to the tranny, so I don't think it's a mechanical hang up. I checked the fluid level when I got home, and it's right on the mark. Think maybe I should take it to a transmission shop for a look inside?

 

Maybe the oxygen sensor being unplugged reacts the same way as running lean. With it unplugged the computer guesses at the fuel settings, and maybe it affected the way the tranny shifts too. If it guesses with the fuel, it may use a guessing program for everything.

 

I hope so... The old one sure is a booger to get loose! I've been pelting it with penetrating oil all day, and it still won't budge. I'm using the longest wrench that I can still turn without hitting the ground, and I've run out of skin on my knuckles. I guess it's all about patience - it looks like it might be the original sensor from when the truck was built.

If it doesn't break loose before dark, I'll plug the sensor back in to drive it tomorrow.

What are your thoughts on the tranny kicking down? It seems like it's been doing that for awhile - maybe even why it was dying at intersections awhile back? I don't know if that's the issue or not, just trying to put 2 and 2 together and come up with something besides 33!

 

Between yours and gearheads, it sounds like the oxygen sensor may be causing some problems.

 

If I could get the old one out, I'd be glad to put a new one in! It's not doing any good sitting in a box!

It's starting to remind me of taking the spare tire carrier out. The original was rotted to death, and the bolt closest to the cab was so stubborn it took me 3 days with penetrating oil and a monster breakover bar to get it out. Digging ditches is easier...

If all else fails, I might have to let the muffler shop cut out the pipe and weld a new one in!

 

it sounds like ur having 2 many problems. there will be alot more. and they are all headaches. i would just buy a new f150. or just compleately restore the one u have. one thing after another is going 2 break

 

Alright... I've spent the entire day soaking the damned o2 sensor in penetrating oil and scraping knuckles. It's still in there!

1/2 a can of penetrating oil later, I bought the special flare wrench for removing these things, so I wouldn't strip the damned thing - rounded the wrench! In the process of that disaster, I realized that I could no longer get a box-end or open-end wrench on the nut any longer.

More penetrating oil...

Moved on to vice grips w/break-over bar and a hammer - no joke, took the teeth off the vice grips.

More penetrating oil... and some beer.

Moved up to the biggest pipe wrench I could fit in there and still have room to move - still wouldn't turn.

More penetrating oil... and more beer

Got my neighbor who's about twice my size involved. He got frustrated. I tried again and got frustrated. He tried again. He got frustrated.

Decided we needed more beer.

o2 sensor wins the battle, but not the war. This isn't over - there will be tomorrow. If no dice tomorrow, I'll take it to the muffler shop and have 'em cut it out.

Time to medicate and watch some football.

 

While I can't offer any additional insight for the ongoing issue regarding the engine, I have experienced a similar tranny problem before.

I had an 83 bronco that had trouble bogging down at stoplights (this was almost immediately following a custom built 351w too, so I can empathize with your situation). For me, the problem was the transmission's kick-down - a vacuum operated device - and the torque converter. Long story short, both were busted. Torque converter replaced, kick down removed, and the problem went away.

Food for thought.

Also, this might be a totally stupid question, but would it be possible (advisable) to put an impact wrench on the 02 sensor?