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EGR block...

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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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Default EGR block...

Mine WAS blocked, 16th inch blockplate, but I finally gt tired of it throwing a code and took the plate off.

Any benefits to it being blocked, pros and cons, what have you?
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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IMO, the EGR benefits the operation of the engine - unlike its early days where it seemed to cause more problems than solved, thus the reason I suspect many choose to bypass/block the valve in hopes of solving a problem caused by something else.

Not sure what year Ford switched to the differential pressure type of valve control.

For my model year - not sure a blocking plate would throw a code. Used to get the fault about valve position, traced to a faulty control solenoid for the valve, located on top of the intake manifold near the rear of the engine.

Basically have the valve, a valve position sensor on top of the valve (if you choose to replace this, the color is important), the control solenoid supplying the vacuum, and the vacuum and electric lines connecting everything up.

If your system is like mine, suspect the code will still be present and require further investigation.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 06:44 PM
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We're in the same model year, so probably.

I'm just wondering if it makes a big difference when blocked off. I did notice that it seemed like it studdered less on start up when I unblocked it, but it was blocked when I bought it...

The code thrown was insufficient flow or something. Unblocked stopped the code.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 06:47 PM
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Blocking it will throw a code, unless you left it hanging in the engine compartment all hooked up except for the exhaust pipe. It is good for fuel economy to have it operational.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 06:48 PM
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I'm thinking the EGR really doesn't start operating until the engine warms up a bit. Perhaps try lifting the negative cable off the battery for about 30 minutes to reset its learning curve and give it a fresh start.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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2 for 2 on leaving it good for now... I still have the blocking plate on, just drilled a hole through it big enough for a decent flow, I might just take it out all together. was there a gasket there factory, or was it metal on metal?

I was originally just trying to clean it when I found the blocking plate, but I couldn't get the vacuum hose off to do it. Any secrets to that?

I'm definitely cool with more mileage
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 06:56 PM
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Oh, still bolted on with a plate in between. Hmmmm...

There's a lead type exhaust gasket for it. Twist the vacuum hose off.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 07:05 PM
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I'm not posting about a problem I'm having, i'm just trying to gather opinions. If the trucks typically seem to run better with it unblocked, and get better mileage, then I'm all for it.

The EGR is unblocked, I drilled a hole in the plate nearly as large as the opening in the manifold and EGR, I just kept it on the truck because I knew I'd lose it if I ever decided that blocked was better, and wanted to flip the plate.

I tried twisting. For an hour. With a rather large-ish wrench. My brother has the PB Blaster and won't share.

Edit: I however don't think I unhooked by battery neg lead since I unblocked it... can't remember when I replaced my starter. May do that and see how my mileage is in a couple weeks after giving it time to learn.

Last edited by Mr.Distance; Jul 5, 2011 at 07:08 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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Perhaps try lifting the lifting the rubber boot with a small-blade screwdriver - almost like a jeweler's screwdriver, working your way around to separate the rubber from the nub.

If nothing else, just lop it off, clean off the nub, and run a new section of regular rubber vacuum line between the EGR valve and the control solenoid.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 07:12 PM
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Another oh, the exhaust pipe not the vacuum line? Don't be a p*ssy. Use something for leverage.
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