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ECM / ECU Issue.

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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #1  
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Default ECM / ECU Issue.

Ok, this is a long one, but I really appreciate everyone's input....I'm losing my mind with this!

The truck: 1990 F150 / I6 4.9L 300 / 4x4 / 5-speed standard trans.

I posted about an issue that I had with my F150 a few weeks back. The issue went away for about two weeks, but it suddenly happened again today. The truck started running rough as in missing / jerking a lot and the check engine light came on so I had a mechanic try to read the code. He said he couldn't pull any codes and recommended that I replace the ECM, or as some people call it, the ECU. (FYI: The plugs & wires and distributor are all new.) This issue has occurred on and off since I bought the truck two months ago. Although the check engine light came on today, when I turn the key off and restart it, the light goes off and it runs good for awhile, but then the problem comes back! I figure that it's time to take care of this by replacing the ECU / ECM as advised.

I removed the ECM / ECU and here are the numbers as they appear in color and order on the unit:
9223 1012
E9AF 14A624 AA (GTE)
F0AF-14A459-AA
Also, there is a sticker on the plug of the unit that reads: 586 ECM and Made in Canada.

I called a local Ford dealership parts dept. and asked them how to locate the part and what part number is "right" since they don't make new ECM / ECU's anymore. They said according to the spec's of my truck (see above), that the original Engineering part # is: FOTF 12A 650 BB, but that doesn't match the number (F0AF-14A459-AA) on the unit I removed. Without knowing the history of the truck, I wonder if someone replaced the original ECM / ECU with the wrong one, thus causing the intermittent problem I have now with it running rough?

Anyway, the Ford parts rep said the part number that I should look for is: FOPZ 12A 650 UA.

I called NAPA to order the part, but they recommended that I use part number: FOTZ 12A 650 BB, which is a re-manufactured part for $120.00 and a one year warranty.

The calibration code from the door jam of the truck reads: 0-51H-R02
Do I need to have this code programmed into a replacement unit?

Before ordering any parts, I'm curious if anyone has dealt with this issue or has any advice.

Thank you!
-Nabor J

Last edited by nabor j; Nov 30, 2011 at 09:51 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 09:48 PM
  #2  
Welder7018's Avatar
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Originally Posted by nabor j
Ok, this is a long one, but I really appreciate everyone's input....I'm losing my mind with this!

The truck: 1990 F150 / I6 4.9L 300 / 4x4 / 5-speed standard trans.

I posted about an issue that I had with my F150 a few weeks back. The issue went away for about two weeks, but it suddenly happened again today. The truck started running rough as in missing / jerking a lot and the check engine light came on so I had a mechanic try to read the code. He said he couldn't pull any codes and recommended that I replace the ECM, or as some people call it, the ECU. (FYI: The plugs & wires and distributor are all new.) This issue has occurred on and off since I bought the truck two months ago. Although the check engine light came on today, when I turn the key off and restart it, the light goes off and it runs good for awhile, but then the problem comes back! I figure that it's time to take care of this by replacing the ECU / ECM as advised.

I removed the ECM / ECU and here are the numbers as they appear in color and order on the unit:
9223 1012
E9AF 14A624 AA (GTE)
F0AF-14A459-AA
Also, there is a sticker on the plug of the unit that reads: 586 ECM and Made in Canada.

I called a local Ford dealership parts dept. and asked them how to locate the part and what part number is "right" since they don't make new ECM / ECU's anymore. They said according to the spec's of my truck (see above), that the original Engineering part # is: FOTF 12A 650 BB, but that doesn't match the number (F0AF-14A459-AA) on the unit I removed. Without knowing the history of the truck, I wonder if someone replaced the original ECM / ECU with the wrong one, thus causing the intermittent problem I have now with it running rough?

Anyway, the Ford parts rep said the part number that I should look for is: FOPZ 12A 650 UA.

I called NAPA to order the part, but they recommended that I use part number: FOTZ 12A 650 BB, which is a re-manufactured part for $120.00 and a one year warranty.

Before ordering any parts, I'm curious if anyone has dealt with this issue or has any advice.

Thank you!
-Nabor J

The calibration code from the door jam of the truck reads: 0-51H-R02
Do I need to have this code programmed into a replacement unit?
I have the 300 and never had anything like this happen. Except when I lost a plug wire.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:13 PM
  #3  
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Try to get the codes yourself. What did it do when your mechanic tried to pull the codes?
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:26 PM
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He said that he couldn't get any codes to read at all, which is why he thinks that the ECU / ECM is bad, also causing the intermittent issue with how it runs bad.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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I would need to know how the check engine light reacted, but if he knows his stuff then ECU is a good candidate. I would throw in the closest thing I could find at the junkyard.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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When the truck starts to run rough, the check engine light will sometimes come on after about 5-10 minutes, but sometimes it doesn't come on at all. If I pull over though and put the truck in neutral, I can force the light to come on by revving the motor at 2,000 RPM's for about 20 seconds. If I turn the key off and back on again, the engine light is not lit and I can usually drive away, running smooth. Due to what the mechanic said and my experience with an intermittent issue, I'm guessing the ECU/ECM is going bad and hasn't fully failed yet?
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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Have same problem. Did you get yours solved?
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 12:22 PM
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If he knew what he was doing and jumped the 2 connectors propperly and still didn't get any codes then indeed the EEC is bad. Mine did the same thing. I limped it around for the rest of the day until it finally went. Biggest sign was not being able to pull codes and fuel pumps not priming when key was turned on.

I'd go to car-parts.com and type in the appropriate search info. It searches all registered yards in the US. Got my EEC for $35 shipped to my door from 5 states away.
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