Dash LEDs
Cluster takes 5, a/c I can't remember if it's 2 or 3.
I used these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-base/206/919/
I used these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-base/206/919/
Oh I didn't do the idiot lights. I have considered it but I want to look into the battery light situation first.
That battery light is part of the alternator field exciter circuit. There's a 500Ω resistor in parallel with it so that the circuit remains intact if the bulb blows, but I'm not sure how that would interact with an LED since the LED lamp module has it's own internal resistance which I assume is relatively low. If Ford is using the original bulb as a current limiter then replacing it with an LED (assuming lower resistance) would allow increased current to the field windings and may just blow the diodes right out of it (the LED assembly, not the alternator).
Might have to wire a resistor in series with the LED, which MAY create another problem. I have yet to look into this.
That and remember, an LED is a diode (Light Emitting Diode) and as such it will only allow current in forward direction. Meaning that it will work to warn you of an alternator failure (battery voltage higher than alternator output voltage) but it will NOT warn you like the factory bulb was able if there's an overvoltage condition at the alt.
That battery light is part of the alternator field exciter circuit. There's a 500Ω resistor in parallel with it so that the circuit remains intact if the bulb blows, but I'm not sure how that would interact with an LED since the LED lamp module has it's own internal resistance which I assume is relatively low. If Ford is using the original bulb as a current limiter then replacing it with an LED (assuming lower resistance) would allow increased current to the field windings and may just blow the diodes right out of it (the LED assembly, not the alternator).
Might have to wire a resistor in series with the LED, which MAY create another problem. I have yet to look into this.
That and remember, an LED is a diode (Light Emitting Diode) and as such it will only allow current in forward direction. Meaning that it will work to warn you of an alternator failure (battery voltage higher than alternator output voltage) but it will NOT warn you like the factory bulb was able if there's an overvoltage condition at the alt.
Last edited by dixie460; Sep 26, 2014 at 02:09 PM.
just to change the back light of the cluster it takes 5, ac is 2 (atleast the one sitting next to me needs 2)
it wont make much of a difference to change the others like blinkers, 4x4, check engine light, ect ect. the color from as far as i can tell is harder to get off than the normal green film. i didn't even remove the film when i did my blue LEDs, granted the light would be brighter if i did but its fine for me.
i also ordered mine from superbrightleds.com, just under $10 for 5 194 bulbs shipped to my house and they worked perfectly, been 2 years since i installed.
sorry for the blurry pic, i really need to take a new one.
it wont make much of a difference to change the others like blinkers, 4x4, check engine light, ect ect. the color from as far as i can tell is harder to get off than the normal green film. i didn't even remove the film when i did my blue LEDs, granted the light would be brighter if i did but its fine for me.
i also ordered mine from superbrightleds.com, just under $10 for 5 194 bulbs shipped to my house and they worked perfectly, been 2 years since i installed.
sorry for the blurry pic, i really need to take a new one.
Thanks I will be doing mine soon. Got to yank the dash out and will change bulbs when I do the entire interior remodel.
Just getting all my ducks in a row so the truck is not down very long. It is not my main truck but is my favorite.
Just getting all my ducks in a row so the truck is not down very long. It is not my main truck but is my favorite.

