JAYROCK

1 - Truck started squealing as soon as winter got here, and now it's starting to drive me crazy. I tried spaying wd-40 behind all the pulley's and it goes away for about a minute then come's back. I don't know if it's the belt or one of the pulley's. I don't have a belt tensioner to try loosening or tighten.
2 - I have no heat it's only blowing out cold. It has a new radiator, heater core and thermostat, the coolant is fine. It was all replaced this past summer.
3 - Within the past few week's I've notice a coolant leak behind the thermostat housing in that little pocket on the left. ( that's where I found most of the leak ) I cannot find where the leak is coming from though, I don't know if it's the water pump or the thermostat housing.. Also could my squeal be coming from a bad water pump?? Any help would be appreciated..

CountryGuy

I had the same problem with squeeling so I just bought a new belt and everything was great again.

J.A.C

If the squealing goes away when u spray wd-40 on pulleys , ur problem r the pulleys and the reason it goes away for only a minute , its because u only spray on the out side , bearings get old and dry inside. I have the same problem with my 93 f150 and same thing, start squealing at winter time i have to replace mine about every 2 years. just replace mine last month (altenator bearings, idler pulley and tens. pulley)
For u water leak. check the bolts for ur timming cover. some of the water pump bolts also tight the cover at same time. i have the same problem. and it was leaking from there. all i did was to tight the two bolts on the right side of the water pump and that fix my leak.

JAYROCK

I'm ordering some part's tomorrow... Water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, resistor, ect.. I found a Ford Racing pump on JEGS for 44 buck's. What kind of water pump's do you all recommend??

DeathDrought

the squeal also could be the auto tensioner pulley. that happened to me on my 94. but thats only if you have an auto tensioner. p.s. sorry my spelling is horrible!

JAYROCK

I finally got a new thermostat housing, water pump ect.... Well, I went to remove the housing and the top bolt head broke off. I broke a head off on one of the water pump bolt's as well, with the water pump all that's sticking out is the stud no thread.. What is the best way to remove these??

ymeski56

You may want to soak it w/ a penetrating oil & heat it up a few times w/ a torch. If vice grips are not an option, youll have to drill out the center of the bold & use an easy-out. The drill and easy-out need to be the correct size for the bolt!!Tap a center point w/an awl, Use the best metel drill bit you can find. Drill straight, take your time, good luck! If you scew this part up, it doesn't get better. If you use cutting oil, your less likely to break the drill off in the bolt.

JAYROCK

Soaking it with penetration oil, heating it up, and trying to use vise grips has not worked. I guess my next step is to try the easy-out. Here's what I'm working with..
Thermostat housing

Water pump

bigdreynolds

What are you using as a heat source ? Also heat around the bolt not the bolt itself. Try working bolt with vise grips back and forth not just loosening. Any movement will get you going.

ymeski56

Looks cross threaded! Id put 2 vise-grips, if you have enough room for 2, side by side securely. They will act as heat sinks to draw heat away from the bolt. Heat the houseing along the bolt path only. You have to get it really hot! You want to get the bolt threadway to expand, not the bolt. After you get the bolt threadway really hot, tap the vice grips w/ a hammer, watching carefully for movement. After backing the bolt out, don't attempt to cool the housing quickly. Let it return to normal temp on it's own. If there was cross threading, run the correct size thread tap through it & go w/ a slightly longer bolt (if the next size up is too long, cut it &/or washers) or you'll be doing this all again someday. The longer thread will catch fresh meat, because the crossthreaded area will be slightly compromised after the thread tap procedure. And use a lubricant oil to minimize any further damage to the thread path.