Restof150s

I have a 93 f150 6cyl manual (m5od trans). Truck drives fine on the street, but pulling or off road clutch doesn't hold. I live on the beaches of North Carolina and the really soft sand will pretty much render my truck stuck without spinning tires. I am thinking it's getting close to time to change the clutch. A new clutch may help my situation but I was wondering if anyone has installed a clutch with better clamping force. If I'm gonna replace the clutch I'd rather go over board then go stock and be upset that it still slips under heavy load.

nrivera04

Completely in my own humble opinion, but a stock clutch is more than sufficient. The problem I've seen (and tried to convince people who think they need more when selling them a clutch) is that performance clutches are typically either "engaged" or "disengaged" there's no middle ground. Some might say that's what they want, but eventually it tears up other driveline components if you don't upgrade those as well and you'll still burn the clutch out trying to drive it like a normal truck.

Make sure you have the flywheel surfaced also and change the slave since it's internal.

96F150-4.9

I just replaced my clutch on my 1996 F150 4.9I 5 speed. I looked and looked and kept on looking! I ended up getting a Heavy Duty Clutch kit from LUK. Also got a new LUK Flywheel and a LUK Slave Cylinder with Bearing. The Clutch Kit came with a Pilot Bearing. Since the Trans was already out.. I ended up replacing the Output Shaft Seal and the Input Shaft Seal. Might as well do it!! And replaced the Rear Main Seal too. Very easy to do! And it would be a PITA ig they started leaking after you put everything back together so I just replaced them! Get it all done right... Right? I got my LUK parts from RockAuto.com and my seals I got them from Napa. I think I spent like $280 at RockAuto. I dont remember on seals.. Not much though. I ended doing the job at home. Extra set of hands might help out alot!

Restof150s

So I kept having issues, my slave started leaking. so I ended up replacing the clutch and slave and all. But now my clutch stays disengaged. Truck will sit still in gear, will not move at all. I can shift through all gears engine running.


What I ended up doing was getting an 11 inch clutch this go around. New slave cylinder, new flywheel (it's my daily so I don't really have time to wait for a machine shop) bled the clutch. I'm guessing one part doesn't match with the others. Guessing the slave cylinder is keeping the clutch disengaged all the time. Just seeing what y'all though. Or if y'all have any ideas.

nrivera04

Are you sure the clutch is disengaged/disengaging? Do you have any pedal when you're pushing it down?

Sounds like a broke input shaft from what you're describing.

Restof150s

Well got that figured out.

Now I have the complete opposite. I can't get it to go in any gears. I've bled and bled and bled. Nothing.

Restof150s

Okay so I have bled and re bled. Still get grinding goin. Into gears if it goes in at all. I have conventional bled it (two people) I have reverse bled it (pushing fluid up to master cylinder.) have pulled master cylinder out and pointed push rod down (like your supposed to on the Rangers) it got a little better but nothing drastic. Only think I can think is its sucking air somewhere, or there is a depth difference between 10 and 11 inch causing it to not release fully. Every time and method of bleeding I've done has not shown any air bubbles.


I'm at a loss, other than replacing the master cylinder I have no other options. Unless the slave cylinder is sucking air or not extending all the way. If I go back on I'm gonna stick the 10 inch back in it that way I know it's right.

96F150-4.9

Same thing happened to me and I just ended up replacing the master cylinder... All LUK parts I replaced my flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder master cylinder, pilot bearing, rear main. And some other seals. The bleeding of the master cylinder was the hardest part. Everything else was pretty easy. As long as you have a trans jack.

nrivera04

I would have to look cause I don't remember off the top of my head but I believe the 10 and 11 are interchangeable. The only difference, I think, is some flywheels aren't drilled for the 11" pressure plate.

I've always put a new CMC in when I changed slaves, it's possible yours is allowing some fluid bypass.

Restof150s

Well for giggles I replaced the master cylinder. Same thing. Grinding to reverse, and cannot shift into any forward gears. Don't know what to do at this point other than installing all new parts again.