It's cool, you don't sound like a d!ck. But you've got quite a task to accomplish because everything relies on the computer. It sure would be easier if the transmission wasn't computer controlled.

 

Sean is right....

you need a controller for the E4od to work....it gets it input directly from the TPS or you'll burn it up real fast...it also works off the VSS which aslo wont work...

you need to change to a Vacuum distributor like the Duraspark 2...

it will be easier on your wallet to fix the EFI...the tranny controller alone is pricey...

plus you'll need a $70.00 by-pass carb regulator...you'll prolly be 400.00 or more into it for it to work right...not saying it cant be done but...EFI is just better...but if the EFI is working properly it will run better and get better MPG...

 

EFI is also preferred for off road trucks because the angle of the truck doesn't screw up the float in the carburetor.

 

Okay, so now I'm worried because I had no idea the tranny was going to be involved. SO, if you all would entertain me, how can I go about fixing the EFI. This is whats done to the truck that involves the engine.

-cats
-O2 sensors and wires for them
-EGR
-some vaccum lines that I have no idea what they are for
There is probably more missing, this is just what's coming to mind.

+XE270HR cam shaft from comp cams
+roller rockers
+valve springs (came with cam)
+long tube headers (which would make it hard to put EGR on)


The truck did run. The last upgrade was the roller rockers and since that upgrade the truck couldn't sit at idle without dying as I stated before. I thought it might be a vaccum leak but couldn't find one. The only other thought I had was the fuel pump was bad. I had become so frustrated by this point thart I followed my freinds advice and started down this carb road. So I just need this thing to run. MPG doesn't matter. I'm selling it as soon as it runs.

Just an FYI I did not remove all of this emmisions junk. I bought the truck this way because I didn't know anything about vehicels. I have since learned a little more.

 

I would also still appreciate more info on the carb switch. I am considering both routes at this time.

 

if the truck ran before the rocker change that means you didnt do the rockers right...that bears no difference other than you're either not opening the valves or you're holding them open when they should be closed...

you need to set them properly...I can tell you simply how to do it...

 

There is a company who makes a stand alone computer for the e40d and the aode, you can leave the in tank pumps, you will still need a regular pump, you will need to find the wire that feeds the fuel selector switch, the 86 was a pink and I think green, that needs to be operated by the key on\off, I used an msd 6400 6a box, you can also wire in a duraspark box, standard duraspark dist, accel chrome coil, offy manifold, holley 1850 600 cfm carb, did not use vac advance, I just set the dist to 15 or so deg, the harness I just seperated the engine harness fron the computer harness, they are different, I did not have any emissions hooked up except the cats and I used the o2 sensor for an air\fuel ratio meter, I used my aod cable and adapted it to the throttle bracket, the gas petal cable you can still get, I think Edelbrock has a throttle bracket for a Ford, if not you might be able to make one, I had some laying around, its not as bad as it seems, just takes some figuring and a little work.

 

You don't need any of the emissions crap to make it run right. It would be nice to have the EGR, but that stuff being gone isn't a big deal.

 

I'm pretty sure the rockers are right, but I can double check. It doesn't sound like the valves are set wrong, it sounds like its choking for gas or air.

 

If thats the case what could be causing the rpms to run around and then die.