bleeding clutch.
#11
I read once that after bleeding the clutch like you would the breaks (pumping the pedal while not letting air back through the bleed screw) close the bleed screw, depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and crack the bleed screw for just a moment, then close it immediatly. This will get the last bit of air out of the slave cylinder. It worked for me.
#13
oh, lol. yeah, i got it all worked out.
what i did was opened the bleed valve, pushed down the pedal and held it, closed the bleed valve and pulled the pedal and repeated a few times. then as soon as all the air was out that way, i pumped the pedal slowly down and then quickly up for 3 reps of 10 and then did the first thing again and it worked.
what i did was opened the bleed valve, pushed down the pedal and held it, closed the bleed valve and pulled the pedal and repeated a few times. then as soon as all the air was out that way, i pumped the pedal slowly down and then quickly up for 3 reps of 10 and then did the first thing again and it worked.
#14
Bleeding clutch 96 ford f150
I have tried to bleed my clutch over and over again. The clutch pedal stays to the floor and wont spring back up. I had a little pedal before I tried to bleed it. Now no pedal at all. Spent 30 minutes trying to bleed. alittle comes out then nothing. tried this over and over with someone in the truck working the pedal each time. Can anyone help....
#16
Senior Member
Hate to threadjack again, but the internal slave cylinders are a !@#@$%# to bleed. I am wondering if mine need to remove some air. My pedal seems fine, but it is the last 1/4 inch push to the floor that starts my truck. Sometimes I have to push twice and place myself into the proper position to get it right. I seem to have some issues going on here since replacing the clutch mechanisms.
#17
I let my master cylinder go dry. Got air in the line. I just found out after having some help, I need a new slave cylinder. Its not letting my clutch pump up. Does that sound right. The fluid must have leaked out for some reason. When I tried to bleed, hardly any fluid came out. thx
#19
Senior Member
I concur with Sean. I don't know if you have an external or concentric, but the symptoms are the same. The salve is usually the culprit, but recommend replacing the master at the same time or very close thereafter. I went as far as replacing the hydraulic line because the o-ring area seemed a little fishy.
#20
1995 F-150 2wd, 4.9L 5-sp
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: West VA
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Here's what I use to bleed the brakes & slave cylinder on my VW, a pressure bleeder. It forces brake fluid into the chamber & pushes out the old fluid. The cap threads overtop the master cylinder. Fill the bottle with a couple cans of brake fluid, install cap, then pump to 10-12 psi.
http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/pressure-bleeder.htm
Here's a homemade version using a garden sprayer:
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
I'll need to find an old Master Cylinder & Clutch Reservoir cap, then thread a hose nipple atop them. The pressure bleeder makes it so simple & quick. Also, it's a one man operation. I usually change mine every 2 years.
http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/pressure-bleeder.htm
Here's a homemade version using a garden sprayer:
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
I'll need to find an old Master Cylinder & Clutch Reservoir cap, then thread a hose nipple atop them. The pressure bleeder makes it so simple & quick. Also, it's a one man operation. I usually change mine every 2 years.
Last edited by gearhead; 01-11-2009 at 12:37 PM.