i tried that and it didnt work. and i havent had time to try out the other ideas yet. hopefully tomorrow or the day after.

 

How did the bleeding go? Which way worked for you? I assume it's working since you're out tearing off bumpers.

 

oh, lol. yeah, i got it all worked out.

what i did was opened the bleed valve, pushed down the pedal and held it, closed the bleed valve and pulled the pedal and repeated a few times. then as soon as all the air was out that way, i pumped the pedal slowly down and then quickly up for 3 reps of 10 and then did the first thing again and it worked.

 

I have tried to bleed my clutch over and over again. The clutch pedal stays to the floor and wont spring back up. I had a little pedal before I tried to bleed it. Now no pedal at all. Spent 30 minutes trying to bleed. alittle comes out then nothing. tried this over and over with someone in the truck working the pedal each time. Can anyone help....

 

Why did you need to bleed it in the first place? If something failed and you didn't replace it then you can bleed all you want, it won't help.

 

Hate to threadjack again, but the internal slave cylinders are a !@#@$%# to bleed. I am wondering if mine need to remove some air. My pedal seems fine, but it is the last 1/4 inch push to the floor that starts my truck. Sometimes I have to push twice and place myself into the proper position to get it right. I seem to have some issues going on here since replacing the clutch mechanisms.

 

I let my master cylinder go dry. Got air in the line. I just found out after having some help, I need a new slave cylinder. Its not letting my clutch pump up. Does that sound right. The fluid must have leaked out for some reason. When I tried to bleed, hardly any fluid came out. thx

 

That sounds right. If the slave is bad you should see fluid leaking out of the bellhousing. If the master is bad you will see fluid leaking under the hood or under the dash near it.

 

I concur with Sean. I don't know if you have an external or concentric, but the symptoms are the same. The salve is usually the culprit, but recommend replacing the master at the same time or very close thereafter. I went as far as replacing the hydraulic line because the o-ring area seemed a little fishy.

 

Here's what I use to bleed the brakes & slave cylinder on my VW, a pressure bleeder. It forces brake fluid into the chamber & pushes out the old fluid. The cap threads overtop the master cylinder. Fill the bottle with a couple cans of brake fluid, install cap, then pump to 10-12 psi.


http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/pressure-bleeder.htm






Here's a homemade version using a garden sprayer:

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm





I'll need to find an old Master Cylinder & Clutch Reservoir cap, then thread a hose nipple atop them. The pressure bleeder makes it so simple & quick. Also, it's a one man operation. I usually change mine every 2 years.