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Battery cable wiring.

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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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Default Battery cable wiring.

So my original terminals needed to be replaced. I didn't want to replace the whole cables so I tried to fix it myself. This is what I have done. I have one 2 gauge copper connector for the negative and used two 4 gauge connectors for the two positives. Is this okay? or will my truck burn up in flames?

Here is a picture of my homemade flatbed. Im going adjust the pitch the front of the bed down a little to make it match the lines of the truck, or maybe a leveling kit instead.
Attached Thumbnails Battery cable wiring.-battery.jpg   Battery cable wiring.-g-pas-truck.jpg  

Last edited by higgs boson; Feb 24, 2013 at 03:33 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 08:19 PM
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Yup those cables look fine, just watch nothing hits that positive terminal.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 08:28 PM
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I am not an electrician or an engineer but if you can use 10 gauge wire in a 220 circuit in your house, a 12 volt battery and 4 gauge cable should handle the load in your truck.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank_Ford
I am not an electrician or an engineer but if you can use 10 gauge wire in a 220 circuit in your house, a 12 volt battery and 4 gauge cable should handle the load in your truck.
Its the amperage, thats why you need large gauge cables so all that current can flow without burning up the cables. And you need both positive cables, one to the the starter replay and the other to the starter solenoid.

Household service is anywhere from 60-100 amps at 220v then goes to you're 15-20 amp circuits at 110v-120v

Starting you're truck you're putting out 900+ amps (depending on the battery)

Last edited by sylver91; Feb 24, 2013 at 08:38 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 10:29 PM
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Slight hijack, where'd you get your terminals at? I need to do this same thing.
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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This is my positive connection. Works like a charm.

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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 01:21 AM
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Make sure to keep all those connections clean and tight and you should be fine. Personally I prefer solder on ends like factory. All you need to do is trim and strip the wire. Melt some solder into the terminal with a propane torch. Then stick the wire into the melted solder. If you measure and trim neatly you have a nice factory connection. I picked up some heavy shrink tube and made a flex guard for extra protection.
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 09:03 AM
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My turn

Battery cable wiring.-forumrunner_20130225_090255.jpg
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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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Meh, not pretty but it works. Didn't get around to shrink tubing it.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Jul 13, 2024 | 06:11 PM
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Default Please don't use 10 Guage wire from your home in any starting capacity in a vehicle.

Originally Posted by Frank_Ford
I am not an electrician or an engineer but if you can use 10 gauge wire in a 220 circuit in your house, a 12 volt battery and 4 gauge cable should handle the load in your truck.
"Well there is a major difference in Battery wiring and house wiring.
The difference isnt the obvious Voltage being much lower, But rather that Amperage being WAY WAY higher in the 12v system of a vehicle.
keep in mind you may be using 800-1000 AMPs for a battery in a vehicle and your home may have a 100 amp main.
that high Amperage would MELT a 220v 10 Guage wire when starting a vehicle.
220V in your home will probably be a 30 Amp circuit like your dryer or maybe a stove.
​​eeeeyuge difference in draw and as a result heat.
​​​​just an FYI.
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