I'm looking at buying a 1992 Ford Bronco.. body's shot though.
It needs new quarter panels, wich I cannot get anywhere. Even if I could I'm sure they'd cost an arm, leg, and left tit...
So I got to thinking; I know where I can get both (mint condition) bedsides off the same year-ish F150. Considering how similar the Bronco is, could I get away with cutting the F150 bedsides to the right dimensions and MIG weld it onto the remaining good part of the Bronco's quarter panels? Here's a picture, whats in the red has to go. The other picture shows the cancer thats behind it lol.

The one thing Im worried about is the gas cap... If I HAD to I could cut around it (The broncos quarter panel is fine about a foot every direction of there) but it would be easier if the F150 bedside would line up
Opinions?

 

quarter panels are like 300 a side. goto lmctruck.com they have them even at your local body shops .

 

ya but I can get mint bedsides for free lol.. I just need to know if everything will line up and Im off to the races with a MIG welder and a sawzall
this truck could use that $300 per side elsewhere
Not all bad though. New engine, locking hubs, magniflow exhaust, u-joints, brake likes, hood, fenders, 2 new tops.............

 

I'll sell you a 94 and a 95, 95 has no rust, but a junk frame. I was going to make one good one out of the two. But lost interest when I bought a motorcycle.

 

Id love to if you weren't so far away Im in Ontario
Anybody know how big of a job this would be?

 

I'd go with the actual Bronco Quarters, I just looked them up. $229 from lmctruck.com, it's the full panel, from that splice that goes across about even with the bottom of the window, and its has the bend into the door frame, looks like you also need the door frame corner, that might have to be a fab. job. good luck.

 

ahh thats true the door frame would be a problem... I might get the quarter panels then...
Its gonna need 2 quarter panels, rocker panel, floor pan, and something done with the door frame... Might be trading an '89 Mazda pickup for it lol.

 

When you get into weld new body panels on it can be more work and a PITA then it worth. You gotta make sure you use the correct corrosion protection and the inside of the body where you weld. Make sure you prep the area b4 useing said protection, if you dont you might as well be pissing up wind. 3M makes really good products, I suggest using "Rubberized Under Body Spray" and scuff the area down with at least 80 grit and wipe area to be sprayed with a body prep solution. Rubbing Alcohol works great. Clean up the inside of your body work just as well as the outside. Be very careful when grinding down your welds inside and out. After you outter body work is ground down nd looks all pretty use a coat of "Kitty Hair" to creat a water tight seal then use regular body filler over top. If you have over 1/4" over over all filler (Kitty hair and regular body filler) you have use too much and will leave a halo effect and/or crack over time. In areas like your tail light opening, tail gate, rock pane door jambs fuel door opening and wheel well seams tape are off and use 3M body caulk with a body filler spreader, after applying the caulk put a rubber glove on and smooth it out. If you use a angle grider with 3m rol-loc discs and buzz over the wheel well, fuel door opening, tail light opening, tail gate, rock panel, and door jamb seam you'll highlight your factory pinch welds. Drill these out with a High Strength Steel pinch weld drill bit, how ever be careful not to drill thru the inside layer of steel. Practice on the doner truck first to get the hang of it. The HSS Pinch welld bit has what looks like a pilot tip, that will help you keep center on your drills.