[QUOTE=kbroderick;5579122]Ah, Lucas, the prince of darkness! Although to be fair the magnetti Marelli electrics in the early 70s Fiats were just as bad!

 

An alternator isn't able to push a great deal of current out at idle. Sitting in the driveway for 30 minutes isn't (with fans, lights, heated seats, etc on) putting any real charge into the battery. Not because of the smart charging system, but because the output of the alternator is too low. Alternators need to spin faster to provide their rated outputs. You are probably reducing the charge in the battery during that time.

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles...rnators_4.html

 

I sure hope our Alternators do better than that. I don't usually drive around at 5500 RPM in this truck. On one of my bikes yes but in the comfy truck, Nyet.

I can't believe that Ford would design/use an Alternator that only works at 50% efficiency during normal cruise. Well I guess I could believe it nowadays but that does not make any sense or make it right.

 

My EcoBoost 3.5l w/10 speed transmission stays under 3,000 RPM unless I am REALLY punching it.

 

I should have been clearer. That's alternator RPM. With the pullies and belts the gearing is different from engine RPM.

I did see the amp power output from the F150 200amp alternator compared to engine rpm. let me hunt for that one.

 

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Here is a Ford document with Alternator outputs, its all the different vehicles/engines they make. 200 and 240 amp F150 are in there.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...SB_Updates.pdf

 

Hello. Searching through this long thread and looking at the spreadsheet for fixing hyperflash issues when replacing turn signal bulbs (front and back) has revealed some parameters, but I'm confused on which ones to use and what the differences are.

I seem to only have hyperflash on the gauge cluster turn signal indicators, the bulbs themselves seem to flash normally. I still have OEM halogen headlight bulbs (for now) if that makes a difference in how this works.

For the front turn signals there are two parameters:
726-27-01 x*xx xxxx xxxx
726-27-01 xxx* xxxx xxxx
Which one do I set? What is the difference between the two?

These are the rear turn signals:
726-27-02 xxxx xxxx x*xx
726-28-01 x*xx xxxx xxxx
726-28-01 xxx* xxxx xxxx
Which one(s) do I have to set here? a bit confusing

Does this have to do with turn signals too?
726-28-02 xxx* xxxx xxxx

Thanks.

 

Hey guys, I'm a newbie here but have some questions. I work at a Ford dealer and have my own IDS, can I use Forscan with my Bosch VCM II? I recently purchased the Ford OEM Kicker Sub for my 2018 XLT. I made the changes in IDS for external sub with kicker 7 speaker sound, however I dislike the High Pass Filter being applied to the 7 speakers. I saw there was a string to "enable external sub" in the Forscan spread sheet, however using IDS and doing as built with manual entry gave me an error when I changed the bit to enable external sub. Basically what I want to do is just enable the external sub, without touching the ??? that shows up for speaker settings in audio personality on IDS.

Also anyone with a 2018 5.0 that has access to IDS, there is a PCM update that came out this week, I just installed it on my truck.

 

Cleared DTC and returned to as built data back to auto start/stop functioning no more charging warning... weird