Good pics. Thanks
Not scolding you, but please - get a paper towel or 'Red Rag' or something stuffed in that VCT solenoid hole - and anywhere else the oil passageway systems are opened up and exposed to destructive trash getting into new phasers / tensioners. More will occur later -- ie front of Camshafts - VCT valve bodies, etc. That engine has some crystalized carbon in there and it needs to be kept out of the wrong places.


It is hard totell what is 'PLUMB' straight up on the crankshaft photo - but if you have all plugs removed so crank can be turned easily and feel any 'sharp resistance' or lockup, I see no harm in moving crankshaft gently 'counter clockwise' about 10º to maybe 15º where the dot is at 'dead' bottom (6:00 o'clock). In my opinion, that is the easiest place to see when the single colored chain link(s) both 'straddle' that dot.


It looks like - fortunately - the cams are close to the spot you are shooting for in the end - see attached timing photo. And I do not think there will be any problems in moving the cams into position to make the two colored links straddle the phaser timing marks. (This is not to be confused that I am saying you can move cams or crank _MUCH_. Just a few degrees to achieve proper alignment.)


NOTE phaser positions before locking cams down and removing them. The cams have an alignment pin in front that will force you to put new phasers on in the same orientation. But it will give you comfort to draw a sketch or remember their orientation. While Phasers are removed - remove those VCT valve bodies and clean the passageways and little fine screen inside real good with carb cleaner or some strong solvent.


PLEASE -- all those knowledgeable members out there chime in here and call attention to anything that I may have missed.

 

It seems to me that if I were to remove the cam lobes and roller followers, the valves would fully retract, and I could rotate the camshafts and crankshaft with no risk of damage. Is that correct?

 

It is still best to have the timing setup close before you remove chains . There is a procedure to lift cams . Basically you loosen bolts slowly from the inside out. The ford manual gives you the sequence to retorque, its the same for remove . The idea is to not stress the cam .
But be very gentle with cams all parts must go back exactly like they come out. Mark them and lay them out in order . Especially the cam journals . They are custom fitted . All rollers and lash adjusters are worn in so if not new put them right back where they lived . Some people use egg cartons to organise them .
I would say that yours need cleaned anyway . My journals were already marked from factory with an engraving tool .
You need to soak lash adjusters overnight in a bowl after you hand prime them . You may find some bad ones . Cams should be hand oiled on installation . You will get some on manifolds ,wipe up as much as possible and realise it will smoke some when you fire it up . I replaced all lash and rollers for $265 oem select ebay . Inspect the pivot on the rollers for wear .
When I opened mine up one of the intake rollers on number 8 was kicked out to the side and deeply grooved .

 

so that I would be close when I put them back . Remove phasors before removing cams .I did like the toothed tool for removing phasor and for reinstall . However you can get around it .

 

I found that it is easy to get confused by some of the instructions . Keyway positions are a guide, the real bottom line is the crankcase gear dot at 6 oclock . That corresponds to the keyway at 11 oclock . Moving the keyway to 12 oclock was a way to reduce valve spring pressure . It is okay to stay with the gear dot at 6 oclock and have someone help you get the chains on . That is the common way .
There is a minor difference between keyway at 11 or 12 oclock not enough to cause any damage .
As long as No 1 at TDC , cams on 1 and 5 facing in correct position , gear dot at 6 oclock . Get someone to help you To line up chains while the other one uses a socket wrench on the phasor bolt to move just enough to line up the links . Keep the chain tight on the non tensioner side .
I presume you used a small dowel rod to find TDC number 1 passenger side toward radiator .
Remember the right and left instructions on motor is from drivers point of view not mechanics . Passenger side is right, drivers side is left .
When you have chains on passenger phasor should have R up ,drivers side should have L or I up (SAME THING). That gives you a good Idea that you are correct .
Then when you are sure timing all lines up, We are going to turn the crank by hand two full clockwise revs to prove no valve to piston contact . Yes you will,lose all timing marks at that point it takes 122 revs to get back to your timing point ,not practical or necessary .

 

Your keyway more like 2 o'clock. Gear dot at 6 would be straight down towards floor .

 

Thanks for responding with an excellent, concise, and in my opinion very accurate reply (road map).


I agree that it would be best to lift the cams (as you describe) and carefully inspect both followers and all lash adjusters. in my opinion THEY are the primary source of the 'infamous tick' - from roller bearings that are loose, or if a lash adjuster is stuck, seized, or leaks down under valve spring pressure.


On mine, some of the lash adjusters near Cyl 3 & 4 were actually seized in their wells and I had to use vice grips to work them out. When engine was hot - it ticked horribly. I think valve spring resistance was causing them to leak down at hot idle causing slack in the lash adjuster/follower/cam lobe heal. I cleaned all the wells with carb cleaner / "Q"-tips.


I also think @adrianjwalsh would benefit from some sludge cleaning before reassembly - or at a minimum be VERY careful to keep that stuff out of bearing surfaces, little oil passageways, or lash adjuster wells. It technically won't hurt anything if it doesn't get in the wrong place while opened up.


One comment on @redfishtd's reply - (not a criticism but intended to comfort the OP):



This is inherently taken care of by the crankshaft dot being at (or very near 6:00 o'clock). ALL PISTONS are in absolutely the same position every time the crankshaft gear 'dot' is at bottom. Number 1 is approaching TDC on either Compression stroke, or approaching TDC on Exhaust stroke. Determining _WHICH_ is simply a matter of whether "R" or "I" (or"L") is at top on Bank1 - but Cylinder 1 is at or about TDC were it should be. (Actually I think pure TDC on Number 1 is when KeyWay is at 12:00 o'clock, which puts the dot around 7:00 ---- but makes very little difference, Mox-Nix).


So, it looks like the Phasers (cams) are in just about the right position right now, so if cams are reinstalled in same orientation, the alignment pin on new phasers will be in same area - and fine.

 

There have been some developments in the situation, and I'm left wondering about the importance of removing the camshafts. A friend of mine is a mechanic, and he was kind enough to help me in the timing process. He was very adamant that the removal of camshafts was unnecessary. He rotated the camshafts and crankshaft independently to find what he called, the "sweet spot". He supervised me while I installed the chains, guides, and tensioners. He instructed me to place the two colored links directly above and centered to the timing marks on the cam phasers, and to place the single colored link centered to the timing mark on the crankshaft gear. At my suggestion, we turned the engine over, only to discover that the two colored links were no longer directly above the timing mark on the cam phasers, but one link off.

I don't know what to think. He's telling me that's it's good to go, and just put it back together. I remember Fordtechmackuloco said that properly timing the engine would be nearly impossible without removing the camshafts.

To summarize, could someone please explain the significance of removing the camshafts, and why the timing marks didn't line up with the chains after I rotated the engine.

 

That's because there are 61 links, 42 Teeth on Phasers, and 21 teeth on crank gear. The odd number of links on the chain makes the colored links "WALK" by one/half tooth every revolution


Hence. It takes 122 revolutions of the crankshaft for it to line up again
This post might help: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...3/#post4475795


BTW, have you removed the Oil Pan - to clean out any debris? You do not need to remove Cams to align chains - unless it required too much rotation of crank or cams. Or if you were going to do something with rollers / lash adjusters.

 

Yes, I removed the pan. I have cleaned out the accumulated sludge and fragments of timing chain guides. I'm optimistic that I'm nearing the resolution of this project. My mechanic friend has suggested irrigating the valve train area with brake cleaner or diesel fuel, followed by a rinse in motor oil, to flush any loose disbris down the drain back holes. He also suggests that priming a crank-driven oil pump is totally unnecessary, but I'm skeptical, and I will likely be priming it once I figure out how.

All in all, I'm feeling less anxious, and I'm ready to begin the reassembly process once I gather my thoughts.