Jojodapyro

There is a full kit for chains, tensioners, guides and phasers.

Here is the oil pump

And the Solenoids.

It has also been suggested to switch to 5W30, as the same engines used in Brazil and Australia don't have phaser issues, and are suggested to run 5w30.

HubFord

Why not on the phaser bolts?

redfishtd

You have to mark them to do an additional tightening 90 degrees if I remember correctly . You are stretching the threads to specific point and the bolt is a throwaway after the first use . Plus there are oil passages in this bolt so you don't want anything to block those holes by accident .

Same with the crank pulley bolt , it is alright to to use the old bolt with out the thick washer to get the pulley started but as soon as possible get new bolt with thick washer on there before you forget . Its threads are stressed also . Forget finding a long bolt with the correct threads to help with this , it is even hard to find In the UK. And who wants to go thru all that delay and shipping costs . I measured the clearance from the pulley flange to the Timing cover so that I could see that it was close to the same when done . I always go to mm when I need exact measurements .

The reason for this is my 73 vette with the 454 engine would throw the v belt . When I looked at it I could tell Damper pulley was out of line . I tightened it until it was close . It was getting in the way of my skirt chasing .

adrianjwalsh

I started the project today. I am currently trying to remove the oil pan. There is a crossmember under the pan that is preventing it from being removed. The bolts holding it in are extremely tight, and aren't even budging with my 2 ft cheater bar. Are these meant to be removed with air tools?

F150Torqued

Although an F150 instead of Lincoln Navigator, I remember mine as being pretty hard for this old fart to break loose. But I can't imagine yours having being that different, if it has bolts - its intended to be removable. (I also remember the front passenger corner pan bolt being very tedious to remove because of the racket pinion steering unit. 1/4 turn at a time with an open end wrench.)


Good luck and keep us posted as you progress.

adrianjwalsh

I have borrowed a 350lb impact, and it finally got the nut on the crossmember to turn. I quickly realized that the bolt and nut were turning together, even after several attempts to break them free with rust penetrant. It's really, really, frustrating.

F150Torqued

I understand. But I'm sure you will prevail. And once completed there is a significant feeling of pride that makes it all worth it - even for this 70 year old fart that spent about an additional week all hunched over and limping from the soreness. At least you shouldn't have THAT problem.


Good luck

adrianjwalsh

Thanks for staying with me. I've postponed the project until tomorrow. I will spray the nuts with Liquid Wrench every couple of hours and try it again tomorrow. Again, thanks very much.

redfishtd

It helps to have a pipe to slide over the breaker bar . Long leverage will overcome rust . Known as a cheater bar , I have pipes of several sizes to do this . 3/4 id , 1 inch id, 1"1/4 id several different lengths of old pipe .
Jb blaster helps too .

diver64

Best thing to use is made by yourself. A 50:50 mix of ATF and Mineral Spirits. Best penetrating oil there is and cheaper than store bought