When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Normal for the relays to click when turning the key on. You have a trailer battery charge and trailer backup lamp relay along with 4 wheel ABS relay and diode. As far as the fog lamp relay, Ford didn't offer fog lamps on the '96 MY bronco or F150. The '93-'95 lightning did however. The wiring for the lamps is possibly there. As far as the 50 amp fuse position N, it's a Power feed to ignition switch, which in run position, supplies power to Fuse E in power dist. box for trailer charge relay, 4WABS module & relay, TR sensor, HO2S, cruise servo and DRL module. Also interior fuses 1 & 7 for the rear defrost, turn signal flasher, A/C-heater control ***. It appears as the PO has installed a few extra relays in the empty slots.
Here's a couple pics of the fender solenoid wiring to compare with yours
wire on the left goes to the starter mounted solenoid, nothing else attached there; center top is push on wire from the ignition switch; on the right is power from the battery - also serves as a junction point = if I remember it right that should be power from the alternator and to the truck electrical system. <br/>Ground is through the solenoid mounting screws to the fender (for solenoid activation)
Here you can see the little red wire coming from the solenoid heading down to the starter.
cts2433, what book are you using? Cause I need one. Also it seems that, if Im reading the colors right, that a Tan and Orange wire goes to the fog lamps, well I tore out wires that went into a secondary harness through the fire wall, and I think that was one of the wires. Looks like that guy was used as a relay for the Old Rollers that sat on the car at one point. So thanks, that will now be returned to its original use, Im going to put some fog lights on later, after I solve this starting issue. (Quick note: I dont have Cruise Control)
Chris_1, Yes that is what my wire look like, 'cept the there are 3 wires on the power side, and the "wire" to the starter is well past gauge size, like about the same thickness as the power, or a bit smaller. As for the ground, trust me, I know that it grounds through the screws, I replaced mine with galvanized bolts. No corrosion there.
Thanks for stickin with me, I am workin through this, but it still makes as much sense as to why this is happening as when I started.
So the thing is, if you can take a screwdriver and cross those 2 big nuts and the motor cranks (I think you said that works) then the starter wiring part of the system works.
If the small wire in the centre gets 12v the solenoid should close (accomplishing exactly the same thing as the screwdriver) and the starter should turn. You can use a cheater wire from the battery + post to try that. If it doesn't go then, the solenoid's no good (I know it's new, but).
If everything does go with a cheater wire then it's the signal from the ignition switch start circuit.
If you can't find the fault in that circuit, you may end up with a push button for the starter like some of the new cars have.
Hey, sorry for the lack of posts, but I got a wiring diagram that shows the wiring from the start solenoid to ignition switch and I am goin to back track through that when the weather gets a bit better where I am. Its from a Program called "AllData" I hadn't heard of it before, but gotta say its pretty useful.
Originally Posted by Chris_1
So the thing is, if you can take a screwdriver and cross those 2 big nuts and the motor cranks (I think you said that works) then the starter wiring part of the system works.
If the small wire in the centre gets 12v the solenoid should close (accomplishing exactly the same thing as the screwdriver) and the starter should turn. You can use a cheater wire from the battery + post to try that. If it doesn't go then, the solenoid's no good (I know it's new, but).
If everything does go with a cheater wire then it's the signal from the ignition switch start circuit.
If you can't find the fault in that circuit, you may end up with a push button for the starter like some of the new cars have.
Hehehe, yeah... I'm already at that point. I got a 30A 600V AC/DC Jog button wired in for that.
Last edited by JustThatGuy; 03-28-2016 at 12:34 AM.
Reason: Just a bit spacey
AllData is good for the factory wiring diagrams. There's a couple other online information systems, but AllData is fairly simple to use. I hate chasing wiring gremlins. It's almost worth it buy a new engine harness. Lol. J/K, those are expensive.
Well I figured it out. After pulling the NSS plug I used a voltmeter, and found the prongs to be too large so I changed to a test-light, and the light sporadically illuminated. After gouging at the metal connector within the plug, using the test-light probe, I got a constant bright light, and after plugging the NSS back in the truck starts.
03-18-2016, 12:35 PM
