JustThatGuy

So, up till recently my 96 bronco has been working well, however come last Nov I had to change my neutral safety becuase I was geting the famous click no sart. That said it worked and ran after that. Come last week I had to change my ignition safety switch, and it worked, then come 5:55pm tonight and I turn my key and nothing. All accessories work, all lights work, yet no start, and worse, no click. so leaving the key in I jumpered the Start relay/solenoid, and got the bronco running [by the way I replaced that relay in april of '14]. At a loss I turned to the internet, surprisingly I cant seem to come across a similar issue to this. And before we go try this try that, let me recap; Neutral safety, Start Relay, Ignition Safety, are new. The starter is original but works. I have 11.94 V from the battery, and to the starter. I had the battery tested, its fine and 1.4yrs old.
So seeing as I am having to basically hot wire my car to make it work, ideas on something that is causing this? And how to fix it?

cts2433

Are you referring to the column ignition switch as the ignition safety switch? Also, are you referring to the trans range or MLP as the neutral safety switch? The Bronco is an auto, correct? I would check for B+ on the R/LB starter relay wire (push on terminal) at the passenger mounted solenoid with the key held in the start position. Also, I've seen the pin for the two piece ignition switch actuator rod (tilt column) come apart causing a no start. But when this happens you are unable to the turn the ign switch off and you also have no spring tension on the key from the ignition switch.

JustThatGuy

1st: Just reaffirming its a 1996, so there is the ignition switch [keyed], and a selector switch [which people seem to call the ignition safety switch] which basically tells the car Accessories , off, On, Start in that order. 2nd: Now as for having a bad spring, neither the original, or Napas is bad [though Napas spring is significantly less hearty than the original]. 3rd: Probably, but Im going by what its labeled on the box, and what the parts store has in their system as, and by what my book says, which is Neutral Safety Switch. 4th: " I would check for B+ on the R/LB starter relay wire (push on terminal) at the passenger mounted solenoid with the key held in the start position" Sorry but I dont quite get what you are asking here, I dont know what you mean by "B+ on the R/LB", but if you are referring to wiring colors, I have 2 heavy gauge red wires, 1 perside of the soleniod, and 1 black 14 gauge wire that goes to the center, which is not push on but a small nut, 1/4" I think... Well thats on the solenoid at least, and if thats not what you're asking, my bad, I just need a little more clarification. However as it stands now I can get the truck running by setting the Ignition safety in "On" and jumpering the solenoid, which ,after having thought about it, means the new solenoid from O'reillys is dead. I think... In anycase I'll warranty it, and if I cant, Ill go grab one from a freinds ford truck "collection", test and find out.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

The little wire in the center on the fender mount solenoid should get power when you turn the key to start.
If it does, the you probably have a bad solenoid.
If it doesn't, you have to see if that wire is getting power out of the ignition switch, which is what most people call the white box bolted on the bottom of the column with all the wires to it.
The colour of the wire you're looking at should be the same at the solenoid and the switch.

JustThatGuy

Well looks like a bad solenoid, I got 22-18V going to the solenoid in the keys On position, and 8.1-7.4V in the Start position. Orielly Auto parts 0/10 for electric components. Welp like I said I'll try and warranty it cause I think it has a 1yr on it, and I'll come back with Yay, or Neigh after I exchange and install it.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Those are funny numbers.
Basically when you turn the key to start, the little wire should power up, activate the solenoid and there you go.
You can supply power to it with your own jumper wire and the truck should turn over.
But you have to have power coming to the little wire when you turn the key to start (or there's a problem with that part of the system).
If you have power coming to that wire but she won't crank - but it will when you jump across the solenoid big connections, then the solenoid is pooched.

JustThatGuy

Yeah the 18-22V was like "Am I seeing this right?" But after two Craftsman voltmeters, and a Fluke 300Ammeter/Voltmeter, with the same results I guess thats what that line outputs. Dont know why it does in the On position, but it does, and I mean like the key is in On as in run, Not Start. Also let me know if it shouldnt do that. Cause I suspect it shouldnt but I have nothing stating the contrary.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

That wire should not have power unless the key is turned to start.

JustThatGuy

So because the wire has power whilst the key is in the "On" position there appears to be a larger problem than just a bad solenoid? I mean thats what this seems to be leading to.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

It should not have power unless the key is at "start". Use a test light to verify that maybe. Power all the time at that little 'activation' wire would indicate something wrong back at the ignition switch maybe.

What happens, in sequence is; when you turn the key to start the rod moves the slider in the ignition switch, that sends power through the little wire to the fender mount solenoid; that solenoid closes and sends power through another little wire down to the starter mounted solenoid; which closes and lets power go through the starter.

You should have power at one of the big terminals all the time.
You should have power at the little terminal only when the key is at 'start'.
You should have power at the 2nd large terminal only when the key is at 'start"

Down at the starter, you should have power at the big wire all the time.
You should have power at the little wire only when the key is at start.