Over the weekend I replaced my steering shaft. I went to test it out and can't get my truck out of park! I tried shaking the steering wheel while trying to shift, I checked and the brake lights work. I'm wondering what I might have done while changing out the steering shaft to make this happen. I am not sure where to begin but it looks like all the linkeage is in tact. I took the brake switch off the brake pedal i get 14v from it, and I ohmed the pedal side and it closes when i press down the brake.Thank you for any help! I'll try to add pics if you need then . In case it doesn't tell you it is a 1991 xlt lariat e4od v8 5.0L. 131k miles 3rd owner

Thanks again,
-Nick

That is the beginning of the shifter linkeage next to the top of the shaft right?

The borgeson shaft i just installed. Maybe i wacked something when trying to get the old one free?

This is the linkeage for the shifter on the right ?

This truck does a hard shift from i think 2nd to third if i let off the gas when it upshifts, if i give it gas it shifts smooth. I tried replacing this sensor and it didnt help the issue. Not sure if i have to replace the transmission and if it has something to do with the issue

Trying to show pics of the linkeage

Looks like the seal on my tranny is leaking? I was wondering if it is worth it to do a tranny fluid and filter change. I read that there is a shift solenoid in there or something. Any info on how to do that job would be appreciated!



This is the back of the transmission. Does this mount look like it should be replaced?

 

Why? What test did it fail?That's vague - calm down & describe in more detail. Are you saying the shifter won't move out of the Park position? Or that the shift INDICATOR doesn't follow the shifter's movement? Or that the trans stays in Park when you move the shifter?Those are good starting points, but your truck has no brake-shift interlock, so the pedal & taillights have no effect on the shifter. Yours ONLY has an ignition switch mechanical interlock inside the column, so if the ig.sw. moves to RUN, the shifter is free to move to any range. Shaking the wheel is only necessary if they key WON'T turn, so that was also unnecessary (but logical). Yours is one of the bottom 2 in this diagram:

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You should put ALL the truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature as this page explains:

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Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck.

Your description omitted (among MANY other details) that it's a 4WD, and whether it has a tilt column or not. Where the blinker stalk goes into the column, is the hole a simple vertical slot, or does it have a rounded point toward the steering wheel (vaguely like [> )?Yes.It's on BOTH sides of the front driveshaft. The equalizer crosses from the body/frame to the transmission, and the linkage continues from it to the transmission shift lever.Why? What test did it fail? What did you replace it with (brand/PN/source)? Did the replacement pass the same test that the previous one failed? Did you keep the previous one?Then you should put the previous one back on and STOP replacing parts until you KNOW what's causing the problem. There might not be ANY part to replace - it could be caused by lack of adjustment, or lack of maintenance/cleaning.Of course, everything needs replacement EVENTUALLY. But that doesn't mean to just blindly replace things now. If you're gonna replace parts, you should replace ALL the parts at once, by buying a new vehicle - that's the only logical first step, if you believe in part$-$wapping.Yes, the transmission has something to do with the transmission shifting.That's not a seal, and your truck is unusually leak-free for a truck of its age. Read this page:

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Then you should read the maintenance schedule to find out. The schedule for your truck is virtually identical to this:

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Well, that's true: there certainly IS "or something" in there. Study this page & the NEXT:

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What job? You don't even know what the root cause is, so there's no job to do, other than diagnosis. And that's the most-complex job, which is why so many people (including pros) get it wrong. If you want to learn (and if you plan to keep & drive that truck, you need to because it's not worth paying anyone else to do it for you), you need to get a Haynes manual and read it cover-to-cover at least once (eventually). Follow the links on this page:

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No, but it's hard to tell with the dirt on it. You should start WASHING the truck - especially underneath.

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Allright so I've gone ahead and tried to update my signature to reflect as much info as I could figure out about my truck. I want to take a second and say thank you so much for responding. I ordered the book about the truck you recommended and will give it a read once it comes in, I really appreciate you getting me down the right road because I want to learn how to work on my truck and not waste money on un-needed fixes..
I replaced the steering shaft after I replaced my tires and the brake system. When I went to park it after driving back from the tire shop, it turns out that the steering box snapped off of the frame when straightening out my tires (Its parked on plywood in my sand driveway). A mechanic friend helped me out a ton by taking it out and extracting the snapped bolts out of it at his shop, and we put it back in. The alignment of the steering column was off after and I went to get it aligned.

The mechanic told me that it was missing some sort of retention clip on the steering shaft and there was play on it so he recommended I either find the clip (which he couldn't locate) but he recommended if I just do the shaft, it will help alot with the play on the front of the truck. I looked a few videos up on how to do it and it seemed easy enough for me to try out. I cut down the borgeson shaft and installed it and it really didnt take too long. After reinstalling the shaft, I cannot shift the truck out of park. To be a little more specific , i can pull the shift lever backwards but it doesn't go up or down. The Shifter will not move at all , from the park position. I cannot move the lever at all but I can turn the truck on, and move the steering.

I replaced that sensor to see if it would fix the hard shifts a while ago.. I may have the old one somewhere but the issue didn't change. Thanks so much for all this information so far, I'm going to try to digest as much as I can, as to not waste anyones time. I am a rookie mechanic and don't want to throw parts at the truck. It's had this problem since I've got it and every time I try to look into solutions I go down a rabbit hole. You are definitely correct, Diagnostics are most important as to not waste $$$. I have an HVAC multimeter and a limited understanding of how a car works, but that manual should definitely help me be able to explain my problems more.

I'm going to get that book and read it, clean off the undercarriage of the truck to help figure out the transmission issue. Are you saying I may need to check something out on the steering column? I wasn't sure what to look at. It sucks my truck is stuck but at least it's in my driveway. If theres anything I need to start working on to be more clear about the truck please let me know. I really appreciate it!

 

If you follow the links, you could have the Haynes manual right now, as a free PDF. It's still good to have the hard copy coming, but you could start using it now. And your signature contains a lot of wasted space, and not all the truck's details - nothing about the tires, no list of options, modifications, damage, repairs, maintenance history... Not everything is applicable to this issue, but it's better to have it all in there now so you don't have to remember to add info each time you ask a new question. And since you don't necessarily know what's relevant now, it's better to just put everything in it now. You can also use common abbreviations to make more space for other details. Without losing any info, it could be shortened to: '91 XLT Lariat 5.0L E4OD manual4x4 std.cab117" 2tank PL/PW cruise, made in CN

The first thing I'd do regarding the shifter is: remove the Borgeson shaft. If it shifts, the shaft is probably too long. If it still won't, something MIGHT be damaged inside the column. The local used car lots &/or locksmiths should know a mobile steering column specialist who can come to your house (or meet you somewhere if you pull the column out) and inspect or rebuild it for a couple hundred $$ in an hour or so.

You didn't answer my question about the blinker hole.

 

Ok thanks again for getting back to me so fast. The work week makes it hard to make time for this since it is almost dark when I get home and I really want to be sure I can see things well. I have degreaser on the way to clean out the engine compartment with. Should I avoid cleaning all the electrical harnesses area?
I was attempting to read the Haynes via PDF but that is tough, hopefully it comes in soon and I'll start reading it on lunch breaks
I took off the shaft today after work and no luck ! But I did notice this cap was loose

Close up of power steering fluid color

The cap on the power steering pump was loose and fluid was around it. I don't have the steering shaft attached so I can't work the pump to check the level right?


Manual hub added to sig

Tire size added to sig

The blinker hole. Not sure how to describe on my sig

Start button. I guess the previous owner bypassed the solenoid. Not sure how to add that to my sig. I added more to my signature let me know what you think please

Thanks again for your help, and patience

 

The fact that there is a starter button added on makes me think that there was already an issue within the steering column before you got the truck. See if you can get a good look at the steering column's linkage, especially the little actuator arm that is prone to snapping. (Look up Dorman part number 83280 so you can see what you are looking for.)

 

No. Clean everything. If water gets inside the distributor, dry it & apply silicone grease to the cap as Ford recommends.

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The drivebelt works the pump. Read the dipstick for instructions on how to check the level.Describe it as "tilt" because it has a tilt column.As "pushbutton cranking".

Remove the knee bolster and try to manually push the ignition switch pushrod toward the front of the truck until the dash lights come on (like the key is in RUN). Then see if the shifter is unlocked.

 

Ok I removed the knee bolster and pushed it forward and it turns over the truck. I went s step further and I took off the steering wheel to see the ignition actuator linkage and it looks like it is all in tact. I took a few pictures I'll attach.

Is it a good idea to try to get rid of the crank button?

 

In your 2nd pic, it looks like part of the lower actuator has broken off. It's been a while since I've taken a column that old apart, but I think the actuator should be connected to the square hole beside the greasy spring. Did you watch how the actuators move as you cycle the key through all its positions? Did the ignition switch follow the key's movement?

Yes, I would work toward restoring the key's functions, and removing all the modifications.

 

That ignition actuator arm is clearly broken, the leg that extends out the back is completely gone, again, that has most likely been broken for a while and is why the push-button start was first installed.