How to retrofit A/C from R12 to R134a?
I was going to pump some new R-134a into the A/C on my 1988 F-150, but right before doing so thought that maybe that isn't the right refrigerant. Turned out to be right and I have an R12 system.
The system is completely fine from what I can observe but nobody had touched it since it left the dealership 30+ years ago. The clutch still kicks the compressor on, blower fan works, etc.
So I'm wondering what all do I NEED to do to be able to use R-134a in this system? I'm not looking to do a perfect retrofit, this isn't a daily driver. I just want to get some colder-than-outside air without shelling the compressor, and if it can not be a 20hr and $400 project that would be nice too. This Georgia heat has me not wanting to drive the truck at all in the summer.
If anyone has done a project like this before, I'd love to hear how you did it! Thanks!
The system is completely fine from what I can observe but nobody had touched it since it left the dealership 30+ years ago. The clutch still kicks the compressor on, blower fan works, etc.
So I'm wondering what all do I NEED to do to be able to use R-134a in this system? I'm not looking to do a perfect retrofit, this isn't a daily driver. I just want to get some colder-than-outside air without shelling the compressor, and if it can not be a 20hr and $400 project that would be nice too. This Georgia heat has me not wanting to drive the truck at all in the summer.
If anyone has done a project like this before, I'd love to hear how you did it! Thanks!
If your system is in good shape and you have a manifold gauge set you should be able to do this by yourself. If your system still has R12 take it to an AC shop and they can drain the remaining R12 and refill with R134. I copied a link below for you.
https://itstillruns.com/convert-r12-...m-6616048.html
https://itstillruns.com/convert-r12-...m-6616048.html
It isn't too hard of a job. You will want to make sure that all of the r12 AND the old mineral oil is flushed out of the system. You are also going to want to replace the orifice tube, and Id recommend swapping out the accumulator while you are at it. Then all you should have to do is pull a vacuum, fill it with pag oil, and charge it with r134a.
How did this turnout? I too am in the same position and also live in the Georgia. I have a 1990 XLT Lariat that has a compressor that works but just needs to be recharged with R12 or converted to R134. Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Because it's ridiculously expensive, & requires training & license to buy. R134a is safe to discharge (it's the "air" in canned air horns & computer-cleaning air cans), so it's not as tightly-regulated. And it works better.
The easiest way to convert is to lift out the whole sealed system from a '94-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series or Bronco (including the underhood HVAC box & hood latch support) with the same engine as your truck, and drop it into your truck.
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The easiest way to convert is to lift out the whole sealed system from a '94-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series or Bronco (including the underhood HVAC box & hood latch support) with the same engine as your truck, and drop it into your truck.
(click this text)
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In this case the OP mentions that his R12 system is intact and operational. Why change a working system? Enough R12 to recharge it will be less than $100 off of the auction site or elsewhere. That is a lot less than the cost of a new compressor, drier, High & Low pressure lines, high pressure switch, o-rings, refrigerant, and condensor to replace the system properly.
Most people who "convert" a system just put adapters on the fittings and the system never cools like it should.
Completely agree, the best way to convert is with a whole system. I did this several years ago with my '92 by getting all new parts for a '94 truck. The A/C has worked as well as factory since with not a single issue or recharge.
Most people who "convert" a system just put adapters on the fittings and the system never cools like it should.
Completely agree, the best way to convert is with a whole system. I did this several years ago with my '92 by getting all new parts for a '94 truck. The A/C has worked as well as factory since with not a single issue or recharge.
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R12 is more efficient that R134a, so a system designed for R12 works best with that refrigerant.
R12 is still pretty easy to find, I just picked up (3) cans at a flea market the other day, of the 'good stuff'' Dude had lots of it.
R12 is still pretty easy to find, I just picked up (3) cans at a flea market the other day, of the 'good stuff'' Dude had lots of it.
Because it's ridiculously expensive, & requires training & license to buy. R134a is safe to discharge (it's the "air" in canned air horns & computer-cleaning air cans), so it's not as tightly-regulated. And it works better.
The easiest way to convert is to lift out the whole sealed system from a '94-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series or Bronco (including the underhood HVAC box & hood latch support) with the same engine as your truck, and drop it into your truck.
(click this text)

(click this text)

The easiest way to convert is to lift out the whole sealed system from a '94-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series or Bronco (including the underhood HVAC box & hood latch support) with the same engine as your truck, and drop it into your truck.
(click this text)
(click this text)








