Everything off to the shop yesterday! Having the block and crank checked, valve job on the heads, and intake timing cover and valve covers cooked out. The guy at the shop said that he wouldn't count on needing just a hone with the miles that were on it so It looks like I'll be buying pistons. I'm planning on keeping it for a long time so I don't want to push the limits of piston to bore clearance and just have it smoke later on after all this work. Looks like I'll be shopping master rebuild kits today to get some Ideas.....

 

Which engine is this? The 5.0 or 5.8? I saw where you said you were considering a 5.8, but didn't really see which engine this was.

 

This is a 5.8, that is what is in it now I don't want to change computers for a smaller engine. I have a 5.0 with 18k on it in a crown vic I had a fleeting thought about using but I decided that was too much trouble. 92F150 2WD EXT Cab 5.8 E4OD 3.55. I guess I should put that in my signature huh? LOL!

 

Which 5.0 is in the crown vic ? I ask because the 302 HO (stock in 95, 96 F150 and earlier in cars) works with the 5.8 computer.
It comes down to the camshaft which has different cam timing than normal 5.0 and so also different spark timing.
Upshot of all that is that even if the crown vic has a the regular 5.0 firing order, you can change it to match the 5.8 firing order just by installing the 5.0 HO cam.
Your rebuilder will probably tell you this, but what mine has to say is that if you put new pistons in, the whole assembly should be sent out to be rebalanced.
Apparently the counterweights have to exactly match the weight of the pistons/rods or it will play hell with the bearings. Around here they charge about $500 to balance an assembly.

 

It is not a HO 302, I thought It would be a pain to change to a 302 and I was afraid of giving up the HP and Torque. Thanks for the tip on Balancing, I didn't think I had to worry about that unless I was putting in a stroker kit. I have to call the shop for a few questions on Monday. If this turns into a $1500+ stock engine I may have to just order a remanufactured one online. I can get one from the same company that I got the 5.0 from for $1400 delivered to my door! The shop said the same thing qdeezie said, These engines just don't sludge up unless you don't change the oil!!

 

Alright Chris, Now you have me reading horror stories about people ordering "balanced rotating assemblies " only to find that they are 200+ grams off. No sleep for me tonight!!!!!!

 

If you get new pistons installed, you will need to balance it.

 

Now I am up in the air again. I have a friend at work that has a 5.8 roller cam short block that is clean as a whistle and still has the factory hone marks in the cylinder walls for sale for $300. Since mine is going to cost upwards of $800 for shop charges and parts now I am wondering if I should buy this one and invest in some GT heads. He was going to put this engine in a Falcon project but decided to go with a 5.0 coyote motor instead. Would a stock roller cam engine and GT heads cause me problems with a speed density setup?

 

Provided the roller cam is stock, it won't cause any issues. With regards to the GT40 heads (I assume that's what you mean when you say GT heads) if you're trying to keep emissions connected, pre-96 heads is why you need. If you aren't trying to keep emissions connected, you can go with the 96-97 GT40 heads as well as pre-96.

If you're looking at GT40p heads, you'll need headers for them to work.

 

GT 40 heads are what I was thinking about, thanks for the tip on emissions. I don't have to but I am going to try to keep the emissions connected. The cam is stock. I assume that if I go in that direction then I'll have to figure out the right pushrods to use.