1993 F-150 XL, reg. cab, 4x4, AT (E40D), 4.9L: cranks & idles, engine is responsive to gas pedal (revs up) when in park or neutral. Will not rev up when in R or D, only idles. It idles high enough that it will move in R & D but engine doesnt respond to gas pedal. New ECM installed/no help. Any suggestions appreciated.

 

How does it respond in 1st or 2nd? Did this issue appear overnight? Or did it slowly progress? Have you taken any diagnostic steps yet?

 

as foolish as it sounds I bought this truck "as-is". I dont have a OBDI or a multimeter so Ive been covering the basics and relying on my limited past experiences. Ive replaced the ECM, shift module, ABS speed sensor, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, knock sensor & Throttle sensor. Fuel pressure at idle is 40psi. Truck, at idle, will move forward/reverse over flat level ground but pressing on gas pedal has no effect

 

Buy yourself a $10 volt meter from Harbor freight. Can't do any troubleshooting without one. Throwing parts at it is futile.

How-To: retrieve trouble codes- OBDI - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

 

thanks

 

TPS: BR/WH=5.13v
GR/WH= 0.07
GRAY=0.00

 

Your TP should have a 4.5 to 5 volt reference voltage
Then at idle the volts should be .8 to 1.3
And at WOT it will be 4.5 to 5,0 volts
Yours is no good maybe or you have a wiring fault
Scan it for codes or use the paperclip method
You most likely have a TP code
Get a PCED or hit the library and use their AllData
That online reference has the Ford PCED you can print
At the front of the section for testing your TP, it has a schematic and more info you need to properly diagnose a faulty tp, so you are not guessing
Good luck

 

OBDI only shows code 327 which apparently is an EGR issue. Previous owner put a plate over the orifice where the EGR is attached. Vacuum line & wiring still connected to EGR but he removed the EGR tube. TPS reads 5.13v in all gears: P, R, N, D, 2, 1. ICV has 12.11v. Check Engine light is on but not flashing, ABS light is on as well. Im not familar with what the abbreviated terms you mentioned. Im learning as go and hope my stubborness and help from kind people such as yourself will be fruitful.

 

If you can move forward in manual 1 and manual 2, but not in overdrive/drive, it means you have an internally damaged transmission part, The low one way clutch has failed.

ITs not the end of the world. Just use the shifter in manual 2 or 1 to take off, I prefer 2 if its downhill or flat and unloaded, because manual 1 without the low one way clutch, then shifted into manual 2 or D requires letting off the throttle, and then a considerable delay to experience a shift.,

if you dont let off the throttle, its a pretty harsh sounding and feeling slip-bang

Just starting in manual 2 for normal driving willl let you throw it in drive while over 18mph ish and it it will seamless shift up to 4th into OD and down to 2nd to stop, but youll lose engine braking as it properly were when it shifts back into 1st, and then you cant move forward without going to manual 1 or 2 again. So I just drop it to 2 for a lot of the low speed stuff , if im going downhill or i dont need much speed, 1st is much more peppy and it will also do great engine braking for you too, and i can drop into manual 1 from 2 at like 24-25 mph and its not a money shift or anything lol

 

I appreciate your input but I dont understand your comment