Hey guys, new member so correct me if I'm wrong. I have never been so deep into an engine, so just making sure I put it together right. I have a 1992 F150 5.0 M5OD with the heads off because of snapped intake bolts. Having a machine shop resurface the heads and get those @$#$%$%$#& bolts out. While they're doing that, I wanted to gather the parts to throw the engine back together when I get the heads back. My questions are:
1. Head Bolts? I put a few next to each other and they seem to be the same size, but what would I know. What are some good head bolts? Do I even NEED to replace them? Are Fel-Pro head bolts ok? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ad+bolts&pos=0
2. Head Gaskets? Wondering if Fel-Pro is good for head Gaskets? I can get a set of head gaskets from O'Reilly's for $72 with all the other gaskets and seals I need. Sounds like a steal. anyone used Fel-Pro head gaskets? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ad+bolts&pos=2
3. I need new exhaust manifold bolts. Any good brands that wont break the bank?
4. Head Paint? I am debating painting the heads while they're off. Would like to keep this under $20-$30 if possible. I painted my upper intake black with the lettering all shiny aluminum and the lower intake is polished aluminum. Good paint combos? Valve covers are also semi-gloss black.

I am so sorry for all the newbie questions lol. I am on a very limited budget, so try to keep that in consideration. Any tips for when I reinstall the heads, valves, intake, dizzy, etc? Thanks so much for any help.

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Here is what I would do:
1. Never reuse head bolts.
2.Fel Pro is good as well a OEM.
3.Yes, I would replace the exhaust manifold bolts. Brand isn't as important as the proper grade of bolt.
4. Color cominations are your choice. I try to match the original factory color scheme.

 

Can I use grade 8 hardware store bolts?

 

I agree with Raski, Felpro is always a good option. Head bolts on a 302 are not torque to yield, so replacement is a good idea, but not a requirement. Any grade 8 bolts should be fine for the exhaust manifolds.
I would also go ahead and lap the valves, if the machine shop isn't already going to do it for you.

 

I was thinking about lapping the valves and replacing the seals when I get them back. Machine shop wanted $300 to lap the valves and replace seals.

 

The head gasket set will come with new valve seals, so there's no reason not to replace them. A valve lapping tool, spring compressor, and valve grinding compound can all be picked up for pretty cheap at any part store. Lapping is straight forward, just make sure that you clean ALL of the valve grinding compound out of the heads when you are done.

 

Alright, I got the heads back and they look great. They did not sandblast them or anything, just chemical wash them. Have some questions... 1. Can I clean up the outside part of the heads with a wire wheel? Will it just rust again? 2. How hot do the heads get? (for finding correct paint) I heard somewhere that you can use any rattlecan paint as long as you use a hitemp clearcoat over it? 3. When the heads are back on, should I apply a thin layer of RTV around the water jacket port of the intake manifold? I've heard about the manifold leaking coolant and wondered if I could prevent it with a little rtv on the gasket. Thanks.

 

And what can I use to get the gasket material off the intake side of the heads? Wire wheel?

 

1: Yes, a wire wheel can be used to clean up, and yes, the heads will rust without some sort of protective coating.
2: The heads do get pretty hot, especially around the exhaust ports, so you'll want a high temp paint. Duplicolor has a line of engine paints, I've always had good results using that.
3: Yes, RTV around the water passages on the intake gasket is a good idea.