Code 34
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 18
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From: Daphne, AL
Code 34
I need some help with a code please. I've had code 32 flashing since I bought the truck this summer. I found out it was the clockspring and was pretty common so I didn't worry too much about it. It was the only code on the dash.
Today i pulled the old clockspring out and put in the new one. Horn works now and I'm guessing the cruise will also (haven't test driven yet).
The good news is that 32 is gone but now it's flashing code 34????
If it wasn't there before why is it now? Is there a way to clear the codes in the memory without a scanner?
I'd like to clear and see if the code comes up again.
Idle is steady and sits around 7-800. The only performance issues I've had are lag under load, incline etc and I occasionally get an engine shutter during acceleration. The shutter isn't consistent. Could any of that be related to code 34?
I'm a novice who's trying to troubleshoot to make this "old" girl a daily driver. help?
truck - 302 5.0 single cab flareside 206xxx miles
thanks!
Today i pulled the old clockspring out and put in the new one. Horn works now and I'm guessing the cruise will also (haven't test driven yet).
The good news is that 32 is gone but now it's flashing code 34????
If it wasn't there before why is it now? Is there a way to clear the codes in the memory without a scanner?
I'd like to clear and see if the code comes up again.
Idle is steady and sits around 7-800. The only performance issues I've had are lag under load, incline etc and I occasionally get an engine shutter during acceleration. The shutter isn't consistent. Could any of that be related to code 34?
I'm a novice who's trying to troubleshoot to make this "old" girl a daily driver. help?
truck - 302 5.0 single cab flareside 206xxx miles
thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,806
Likes: 481
From: Cape Girardeau MO
To clear the codes, unhook the battery for 20-30 minutes.
As far as code 34 - seems to involve something with the EGR system. Suggest either the valve truly isn't moving, the position/flow sensor has a problem, or the control solenoid supplying vacuum to the valve isn't vacuuming or venting like it should, or there's a vacuum line leak.
Testing the valve is easy enough - just apply manifold vacuum directly to the valve to see whether it moves its entire range.
Older vintages had a position sensor on top of the valve, the later vintages used some kind of pressure sensor to indicate flow. Don't know what the position sensor should read as far as volts or ohms, just remember that the color - grey, black, white or whatever - is important to match if you choose to replace. No experience with the pressure sensor, but some here report that the sensing ports tend to plug up and the use of a pipe cleaner (basically a fuzzy twist-tie used on tobacco pipes) works well to clear the ports.
Had a problem with the control solenoid once - found there is a small port on the bottom of the solenoid that admits air to the system to vent / close the valve. Follow the vacuum line from the valve - mine was located on top of the intake, driver-side rear. It had a foam filter which had plugged over solid with crud - guessing it wasn't allowing the valve to vent / close as fast as it should. Efforts to be cheap and merely take the solenoid apart to clear the filter resulted in demolishing the solenoid - but a new one was about $30 from the dealer about 15 years ago.
Hope this helps. Good luck, and keep us posted.
As far as code 34 - seems to involve something with the EGR system. Suggest either the valve truly isn't moving, the position/flow sensor has a problem, or the control solenoid supplying vacuum to the valve isn't vacuuming or venting like it should, or there's a vacuum line leak.
Testing the valve is easy enough - just apply manifold vacuum directly to the valve to see whether it moves its entire range.
Older vintages had a position sensor on top of the valve, the later vintages used some kind of pressure sensor to indicate flow. Don't know what the position sensor should read as far as volts or ohms, just remember that the color - grey, black, white or whatever - is important to match if you choose to replace. No experience with the pressure sensor, but some here report that the sensing ports tend to plug up and the use of a pipe cleaner (basically a fuzzy twist-tie used on tobacco pipes) works well to clear the ports.
Had a problem with the control solenoid once - found there is a small port on the bottom of the solenoid that admits air to the system to vent / close the valve. Follow the vacuum line from the valve - mine was located on top of the intake, driver-side rear. It had a foam filter which had plugged over solid with crud - guessing it wasn't allowing the valve to vent / close as fast as it should. Efforts to be cheap and merely take the solenoid apart to clear the filter resulted in demolishing the solenoid - but a new one was about $30 from the dealer about 15 years ago.
Hope this helps. Good luck, and keep us posted.