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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 07:00 PM
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Default Clutch problem??

Hey all, new guy here, Have a problem, my truck is a 96 4X4 5spd, 6cyl. Problem is that after driving 10-15 miles is feels like it is losing power, there is no snap when you change gears, haven't noticed the engine racing like the clutch is slipping, have noticed the slave is leaking from the bellhousing, clutch releases towards the top of travel, I am pretty sure it needs relaced, it is just not acting like other vehicle I have had with a bad clutch.

I only bought this truck 2 weeks ago, I got it as a fixer upper, have already replace rear leaf springs, hangers and such, clutch problem is about all left before it is daily drivin.

Thanks for any advice GO BUCKS!!

Last edited by Feedawg461; Mar 30, 2013 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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It doesn't have a bad clutch, it has a bad slave. Well, now the clutch is probably soaked in brake fluid.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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Feedawg, I'm here to tell ya' that changing the slave is fairly simple, but it's going to require some sweat, patience, and the assistance of a friend or 2, if you plan on doing it in your driveway.
Get yourself a pair of jackstands, a scrap piece of 2x4 about 10 inches long, 2 floorjacks with wide pedestals, or a motorcycle jack if you can get one.
The job can be done with a good selection of sockets, extenders, and combination wrenches, but I recommend at least an air driven socket wrench, and a good compressor.
My son and I did mine 3 weeks ago, and it worked out really well.
If the clutch is completely saturated with brake fluid, I'd suggest replacement, if it looks like it has some life left, 3-4 cans of non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner may clean it up.
You didn't say how many miles were on the truck, or how well the previous owner(s) maintained it, so total clutch replacement may be the most cost effective way to go.
While you're at it, you should consider replacement of the trans fluid, the clutch master cyl, and the pushrod on the pedal.
All of that stuff should give you a couple of years of trouble free driving.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 08:24 PM
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Thanks for the replies, Planned on replacing the whole shooting match next weeekend, buddy has a lift and used to be a ford dealership tech, Question, why should I replace the pushrod? Plan on replacing the rubber shift fork covers while I am at it. Truck has 196K, but the motor runs like a lot less. Previous owner went thu 2 clutches, farm use and teenagers, which would explain the spun bald rear tires. Any advice on which clutch kit I should buy, I was looking at a heavy duty from NAPA.

Thanks
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:03 PM
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Master comes with the pushrod. Get the 11", both the 10 and 11 will fit.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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I was wondering if a 11" would fit, going to pick up a new flywheel just in case, can always take it back if not needed. Any specific slave cly. better than the others?

Thanks
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:33 PM
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Motorcraft, but you have to go to the dealer for that.
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Feedawg461
Thanks for the replies, Planned on replacing the whole shooting match next weeekend, buddy has a lift and used to be a ford dealership tech, Question, why should I replace the pushrod? Plan on replacing the rubber shift fork covers while I am at it. Truck has 196K, but the motor runs like a lot less. Previous owner went thu 2 clutches, farm use and teenagers, which would explain the spun bald rear tires. Any advice on which clutch kit I should buy, I was looking at a heavy duty from NAPA.

Thanks
The reason I suggested replacing the pushrod is because the original one is most likely plastic.
Your new clutch master cyl. will come with a metal one.
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