I am having a hard time finding out which transmission will bolt up to convert my 89 302 from a manual to an automatic. The synchros are going out and Id rather go ahead and convert it rather than pulling it and rebuilding it. I have found the E40D will/might/maybe/not work with the 302. Any help would be appreciated.

 

The E4OD was offered with a smallblock bellhousing that WILL fit your 5.0L. But it was also offered with a big-block bellhousing (for diesels) that WON'T fit. So it's not a matter of the transmission model - it's the bellhousing pattern. Any bellhousing with the Ford smallblock pattern will bolt up, regardless of transmission model. But some of those models could also come with other bellhousings that won't. You can find a list of factory transmissions through a link near the bottom of this caption:


(phone app link)

 

How did your swap go? I am doing the same thing with my 92 but am looking at the AOD.

 

@Steve83 , you helped me out with an issue last year. Maybe you can help me out again?

I have a 150k mile 92 F150 302 2wd Regular Cab with a stock manual trans and I would like to swap it out for an auto. I was thinking AOD.

I know I need a flexplate, converter, crossmember, driveshaft, shifter. Any idea what else I would need to make this happen?

 

That sounds like most of it, except the trans cooler/radiator, floor plate & carpet w/o shifter hole, shifter cable, & TV cable. I'm sure you'll find other little things along the way, but those are the main ones.

 

 

OEM means the manufacturer, and that doesn't matter. OE will be the best fit, but not necessarily the easiest or best performance. The OE coolers for the E4OD will work better, but just the external (oil-to-air) one should be plenty for an AOD.


(phone app link)

 

10-4. I really appreciate the help. BTW, I had my water pump replaced and my clutch started slipping literally the next day. 150k and never had an issue prior. Think maybe coolant leaked onto the transmission when it was being drained? If that were the case, can you think of any remedy I could try before dropping the trans?

 

Coolant draining from the engine can't get onto the clutch. It was probably simple coincidence. It happens. If you really think there might be coolant in there, rinse it thoroughly. But the bellhousing is designed to resist splashes, so it will take some effort to get a significant amount of water inside it. Remove the visible bolts below/behind the oil pan, gently bend the engine plate forward, and blast away. You can use engine degreaser or surfactant (PurplePower/SimpleGreen), but follow/finish with LOTS of plain water.