Radius Arm Bushings
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Radius Arm Bushings
i took my 96 f-150 to the alignment shop and when they were adjusting the camber on my truck it kept changing the caster on my truck as well. They told me I might have a bent spindle I beam. My caster is about 2 degrees difference between each side, any thoughts on the plus or minus 2 degree caster adjustments bushings for the radius arms.
#2
Changing the camber on these trucks will change the caster, that's how they are made. To get the alignment they have to put the correct camber bushings in the truck.
I'm attaching a PDF that will tell you more.
I'm attaching a PDF that will tell you more.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
appreciate this sheet but when they changed my camber .1 degree it changed my caster by like 6 degrees, I am pretty sure these guys know what there doing because they have been around a while and the owner and crew have pre 97 f-150's I'm just kinda feeing like I'm stuck with a truck that drifts to the right which bums me out but they already spent a day and a half on my truck and tried 3 different sleeves on each side and then sacrificed some o my camber to get the caster difference closer so less pull and still in range of camber so I don't wear my tires but just bums me out that it still has that pull, before I put my tires on and got it aligned I had done a 1.5" leveling kit and it was driving straight but the camber was off obviously
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Leveling kit is the problem of course.
If you raise the truck without dropping the pivot bushing mounts you will have to put so much camber adjustment into the upper ball joints that you can't get the caster right.
Moog adjustable bushings are going to get you as close as you can get but it's still not going to be optimum.
If you raise the truck without dropping the pivot bushing mounts you will have to put so much camber adjustment into the upper ball joints that you can't get the caster right.
Moog adjustable bushings are going to get you as close as you can get but it's still not going to be optimum.
#5
Just call me sean. Really
I put Moog 824 springs in my 2wd, which should be close to what you have for a leveling kit. If not, my old truck had a 2.5" spacer, and aligned just fine.
What you may need are the +/- 4 degree camber bushings, they have both an inner and outer sleeve for camber and caster adjustment. I've yet to meet an OBS I couldn't align with the proper bushings, but I've had hell trying to align trucks with the "wrong" bushings.
What you may need are the +/- 4 degree camber bushings, they have both an inner and outer sleeve for camber and caster adjustment. I've yet to meet an OBS I couldn't align with the proper bushings, but I've had hell trying to align trucks with the "wrong" bushings.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
I put Moog 824 springs in my 2wd, which should be close to what you have for a leveling kit. If not, my old truck had a 2.5" spacer, and aligned just fine.
What you may need are the +/- 4 degree camber bushings, they have both an inner and outer sleeve for camber and caster adjustment. I've yet to meet an OBS I couldn't align with the proper bushings, but I've had hell trying to align trucks with the "wrong" bushings.
What you may need are the +/- 4 degree camber bushings, they have both an inner and outer sleeve for camber and caster adjustment. I've yet to meet an OBS I couldn't align with the proper bushings, but I've had hell trying to align trucks with the "wrong" bushings.
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
OBS is old body style - refers to 92 to 96 but some will apply it to 80 to 96.
Comes from when the 250 and 350's were available in 97 in old body style or new body style; they ended up with both styles for sale on the lot but both styles were 97's.
If you look at that sleeve it's fat on one side so depending where the fat part is it will tip the top ball joint in (camber) or forward or back (caster) or some combination.
You'll want to check that everything is equal both sides as far as distance from a known point on the frame, make sure your bushings and brackets are good and in the right exact place.
What's probably kind of happening here is this - the 2 I-beams (or traction beams) are different lengths; it's an engineering thing; but when you lift the truck a lot without dropping the inboard mounts, 1 (the right) will tip the wheel out more than the other because that beam is shorter.
So if you're at the max on the left, you're past it on the right. The max being the maximum amount of camber correction you can make while still maintaining caster.
What they might have to do is under correct one side so they can get the other side to caster the same; kinda find a balance between everything.
Sometimes when you modify things you have to toss out the rule book and just make it work.
Assuming that your brakes and bearings are all in good shape they may have to adjust the toe in a bit to get that final bit of wander out of it.
For the curious, camber makes your wheels stand up straight or tip in or out at the top.
Caster moves the center of the spindle slightly behind the center of the I-beam so the steering will flip back to straight, like the caster wheel on a shopping cart.
Toe-in is making your front wheels both point in slightly at the front so that the truck wants to go straight down the road instead of constantly trying to head for one ditch or the other.
Comes from when the 250 and 350's were available in 97 in old body style or new body style; they ended up with both styles for sale on the lot but both styles were 97's.
If you look at that sleeve it's fat on one side so depending where the fat part is it will tip the top ball joint in (camber) or forward or back (caster) or some combination.
You'll want to check that everything is equal both sides as far as distance from a known point on the frame, make sure your bushings and brackets are good and in the right exact place.
What's probably kind of happening here is this - the 2 I-beams (or traction beams) are different lengths; it's an engineering thing; but when you lift the truck a lot without dropping the inboard mounts, 1 (the right) will tip the wheel out more than the other because that beam is shorter.
So if you're at the max on the left, you're past it on the right. The max being the maximum amount of camber correction you can make while still maintaining caster.
What they might have to do is under correct one side so they can get the other side to caster the same; kinda find a balance between everything.
Sometimes when you modify things you have to toss out the rule book and just make it work.
Assuming that your brakes and bearings are all in good shape they may have to adjust the toe in a bit to get that final bit of wander out of it.
For the curious, camber makes your wheels stand up straight or tip in or out at the top.
Caster moves the center of the spindle slightly behind the center of the I-beam so the steering will flip back to straight, like the caster wheel on a shopping cart.
Toe-in is making your front wheels both point in slightly at the front so that the truck wants to go straight down the road instead of constantly trying to head for one ditch or the other.
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#8
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Any decent alignment tech should begin with a THOROUGH inspection of all suspension, steering, & frame components (along with any mods) that might impact alignment. If anything is worn out, damaged, or loose, it MUST be repaired before alignment can begin. It's their own fault they wasted a day messing with it, and it indicates they DON'T know what they're doing.
How old are the radius arm bushings, axle pivot bushings, ball joints, & tie rod ends? How long since the wheel bearings were adjusted? Does the truck dog-track? Does the bed lean in relation to the cab?
How old are the radius arm bushings, axle pivot bushings, ball joints, & tie rod ends? How long since the wheel bearings were adjusted? Does the truck dog-track? Does the bed lean in relation to the cab?