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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 01:25 AM
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Default Radius Arm

My truck's front end suspension is taken apart right now. I am in the middle of putting on 2 inch coil spring spacers and twin I beam axle drop brackets. I am attempting to level my truck since it had 2" blocks under the leaf springs when I got it. I'm guessing that's stock. Well I'm sort of learning as I go with this being my first truck. I did not get radius arm drop brackets. But, its only 2 inches... do I even need to drop the radius arms? It's a safety issue.. not trying to make the truck last.

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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 5.0V8
My truck's front end suspension is taken apart right now. I am in the middle of putting on 2 inch coil spring spacers and twin I beam axle drop brackets. I am attempting to level my truck since it had 2" blocks under the leaf springs when I got it. I'm guessing that's stock. Well I'm sort of learning as I go with this being my first truck. I did not get radius arm drop brackets. But, its only 2 inches... do I even need to drop the radius arms? It's a safety issue.. not trying to make the truck last.

Thanks
I just did the same thing to mine. 2" spacers up front. Radius arms fine, rides fine. But I did find, on mine, after being under, that I need new ball joints, pivot bushings and radius arm bushings. So I need to do all that before I get it alighted. The curved washer that goes under the spring, for some reason, did not work with the 2" spacer stud extender. It would sit on top of the shoulder of that nut and there was a space between the spring and that curved washer. So I turned it upside down for now until I figure out why it was doing that. When you do it, let me know if you were able to get that piece in right. Mine is a Daystar 2" spacer.
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Old Sep 19, 2015 | 11:19 AM
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That curved washer goes between the coil spring and the nut that holds the coil spring down. it makes it so that the nut is pushing down on the washer, which is pushing down on the whole last ring of the coil spring.
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Old Sep 19, 2015 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 5.0V8
That curved washer goes between the coil spring and the nut that holds the coil spring down. it makes it so that the nut is pushing down on the washer, which is pushing down on the whole last ring of the coil spring.
Correct. But when I put the stud extender, there is the bottom part (for the wrench) and the threaded part. The curved washer sits on the shoulder of that bottom half (the non threaded) which sits up higher than the last of the coil. So I had to turn it upside down for it to reach or make contact with the coil.
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Old Sep 19, 2015 | 03:20 PM
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You can get away with not using drop brackets for the radius arms, but it will pull your wheels slightly back - because it's almost as if you had shortened the radius arms.
If you follow what I'm saying.
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Old Sep 21, 2015 | 05:04 PM
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You probably already thought of this... But maybe you don't need the stud extender?
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Old Sep 21, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.0V8
You probably already thought of this... But maybe you don't need the stud extender?
Yeah, I did, it was too low! I couldn't get the nut in there without it.

Do me a favor and post a picture of yours when you are done? Also, can you detail how you did the radius arm bushings? I'm about to do those as well. The garage I take it to says "dang that's hard man, good luck to you, we charge 3 hours labor on that". And then I saw that kid's video on Youtube. He just dropped the shocks and springs and moved the entire I-beam forward to get the bushings. No brainer. So now I don't know if I can actually do this or not. Wonder if that kid's video was missing a step.
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 01:34 PM
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I have not had a 4wd truck but I know that if you use taller springs in the front (or spacers) on a 2wd truck you will not be able to get an alignment without drop brackets. I used springs that were about 1" taller in the front on my 96 2wd and the camber adjustment was not possible. See my thread here: https://www.f150forum.com/f88/knuckl...hat-do-293433/
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