Steve83

I don't use mottos. I give each situation my considered opinion, even if it's to get rid of something that's not doing the owner any good. Like a levelling kit. Or an antique pickup.

My Bronco isn't quite "by the book" , and neither is the bushing I recommended. But in general: Ford knows more about how to build light pickups than anyone else (including GM, Ram, Toyota...). So the book is a very good starting point for most people's needs.

mcurrier79

Well, removing them is the only option then that's what I will do. However, if I can get a new camber bushing or drop brackets and make the tires sit right and keep the level then that's what I will do. I also need to keep in mind that I will eventually get a 6" lift on it (for function and cosmetics). So if the lift will replace parts that fix the camber anyway then I may just do the 3k rotate until then.

mcurrier79

Following the book is always good. But doodling around the margins and correcting typos makes it YOUR book.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

I set my toe-in a little tighter than specs just because I like it to run a little straighter. It is however, a little harder on the front tires. Same sort of idea as what you'll be dealing with until you get the lift.
I just run them on the front for a while, then swap them to the back for a while and then take them to the tire shop and have them turn them all around on the rims and start all over again.

Not the way most would recommend, and a bit more money but I don't care.

Steve83

A lift "kit" may not do what you want. But a well-engineered lift "system" for your specific truck, lift height, & tire/rim combo should correct ALL the alignment angles such that high-angle cams wouldn't be necessary.

mcurrier79

Steve83

Yeah, but you're not gonna like it...









Keep it at stock height & rake; replace all the rubber bushings with black Energy poly; keep it aligned; keep good AT tires on it between stock size & 33" at most; and learn to wheel it that way. It may take years of being pulled out by friends or a winch, and trying a different line, but you'd be amazed where I've taken my truck without any lift. And it still does >100mph on pavement. With a little old worn-out I6. And an extra ton of weight on the chassis. And 3.08 gears. And no OD.

I've never installed or shopped for a lift because I've never needed one, even when I lived in the swamps of Louisiana. And I don't think most people who lift their trucks need any lift. It doesn't increase ground clearance - the axles are still the same height above the terrain (until you go nuts with tire size). All it does is make the truck less-stable on- & off-road by raising the CG; AND it makes maintenance harder because all those fasteners & welds have to be re-checked a few times a year (at least, if you have any sense of self-preservation). And when things break, you can't snag a replacement at any JY you happen to pass - you have to order something from the lift company, hoping it's still in-business & producing those parts for such an old truck.

So I can't recommend any brand, but I know that IF you're going to lift a truck, you DON'T want to do it piecemeal. You want to let the company supplying the parts come up with the COMPLETE set that will do what you want on your specific truck. And they call that a lift "system" to distinguish it from the more-common, cheaper, & less-robust lift "kits" that are incomplete so you can cheap out on the job. I see those trucks in the JYs all the time.

sdmartin65

Most technicians have really no idea how to align the twin I beam, doesn't matter that you've taken it to a Ford dealer. Prior to 86? the I beam had to be bent to correct camber, there were no adjustment bushings on the upper ball joint.

You need to have camber really close before you take it in for minor alignment adjustments. Buy a set of zero degree bushings install and take a reading with a digital level on the lips of the front rims. A cut 2 x 4 can be placed under the level so to sit on rim lip. Buy a set of bushings slightly above the measurement. In my case I needed 2 1/2 degree per side. Install the bushings and set the camber as close to zero as possible. It's really pretty easy with the proper bushing at the ball joint. If you even need to take it to an alignment shop and have them dial it in. An alignment shop will have a tech that understands twin beam. Do not buy the moog double collar bushing, they are near to impossible for a mortal to work with. They are supposed to allow both camber and caster adjustment but require super human skills to work properly.

mcurrier79

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Back in the 90's and early 2000's every alignment shop had a full stock of alignment bushings for these trucks and they knew just how to align them even at different heights.
Now they don't see them very often and most won't have all the bushings they should have if they're going to agree to align your truck. And many of the techs weren't even born when the truck was built, they never see them come in to the shop so they know the theory of aligning it but don't have a lot of hands on experience.
So when dealing with Twin Beam suspension it's sometimes better to shop around a bit and ask questions, hopefully you can find someone with real experience on this style of suspension.
There is a limit to the camber bushings of course and too tall of front springs require some drop brackets but any shop worth their salt should either give you your truck back perfectly aligned or tell you that sorry, they can't align it; or source out the parts required to align it properly and install them so as to give you your truck back perfectly aligned.
To give you your truck back and charge you for aligning it when they were unable to do that but cover it with a handwritten scrawl that says 'rotate your tires lots because this truck isn't actually aligned very well - that doesn't really sound overly professional. If they couldn't do the job properly they should have referred you to somebody who could.