billt460

I know if you've done it a couple of times, it's not too bad. But I've never done it, and would like to. I'm just not sure how? I have no problem with buying all the proper necessary tools. They're not that expensive, and once I buy them, I'll always have them. I would like to buy new drums to go with the new shoes. Again, I'm not worried about cost, as much as doing the job right. Do new shoes have to be cut to the new drums, so the diameters match correctly? And is there a way to do all of this without bleeding the brakes? (I have no one to help me). This is a 1991 Ford F-150 2-WD. Thanks in advance.

raski

Not difficult to do. Do one side at a time and you always have the other side to use as reference if you get stumped. I would get the drums checked first for thickness before replacing them. The replacements may be of lesser quality than the ones on your truck right now..If there is a ridge on the drums, I would just replace them versus paying to have the drums machined. Myself, I replace the hardware with a reline job. Springs are color coded but the star wheel adjusters must be installed on the correct side.Also, peel back the rubber caps on the wheel cylinders. If they are wet with brake fluid, change them both and bleed the system.If the wheel cylinders are ok, you don't have to bleed them but it is advisable to do so. Also, put a thin layer of grease on the shoe contact points on the backing plate. Anti seize, slide lube or wheel bearing grease will do. I have always used wheel bearing grease. I do not think any places arc ground the shoes anymore. I haven't seen that in a very long time.

Steve83

Depends on what scale of "hardness" you use, but it'd still be subjective. Everything is easier when you learn & understand it first. Most of what you need to know is in the caption of this diagram, and the others in this photo album:

(click this text)


New drums are not required or always necessary; measure their inside diameters and compare to the maximum marked on them. Shoes should be bedded-in to the drums; not cut. Bleeding is not necessary unless the hydraulic system is opened, but it's much easier to reverse-bleed brakes than most people (even most pros) realize. I do most work without assistance, and with few special tools. Read that caption, the NEXT several in that album, and the other relevant captions & links there.

E40DMonster

There is a lot for this on you tube so I am just going to say two things. One, sometimes its easy and sometimes you fight with it over and over again. I have had springs pop into place on the first try like its easy and then I have had to fight with them over and over again. Its definitely a job you need three hands for even with the proper tools. Just plan some extra time for it. Meaning if you think it will be two hours plan six.

Second, get the Carlson master kit with the star adjusters. You can get on rock auto or amazon. Not sure if local autoparts carry it.

Last, as long as you don't open the bleeders or remove the brake lines you don't have to bleed the brakes. You can pay a quick lube to flush them. The only reason I say that is if you go into shop that sells brake services and they see you want a flush after doing your own brakes you are left to chance on how honest they are.