Earlier this month I had a 2" leveling kit installed on the front end of my 1992 f150. So, of course I had to get it aligned. I head to a local shop we've been buying tires from and have them align it. They told me I had to replace the outer tie rods, then they would align it. Went out, got the tie rods, and replaced radius arm bushings as well. But, after they align it, I get back home and I see a "V" angle on my tire. So, I head back, they spot it, and align it again, same thing happens...so they said to got buy 2 degree camber bushing kits. So, I get those. They install them, align it, and same thing happens and now it's even worse. I'm sitting on a 6" inch rough country lift, 35s, and the 2" level on the front. The spring on the right side is also curved now like a crescent moon. I'm getting really frustrated and spending a ton of money on this. I need help! Also, here are a ton of pictures of this issue. I apologize in advance, I am a picture by picture person, no mechanic.

This is my truck. Can also see the angle here, too.




Replace bushings




The camber of the tires is horrid, and ruining them fast.




Another picture of the bushing, and the leveling it.




This is the new camber/caster bushing




This is what the shop did to one of the old bushings to get it out. They screwed up the balljoint in the process and are charging me for it....




Here's the area in question right before the install of the camber/caster bushings.

 

Is the place that you're going to a place that specializes in lifted trucks? If not then I'd find a place instead of these guys. And if they screwed up the ball joint then you shouldn't pay for replacing it.

 

We are going up there on Monday to tell them we aren't paying for the damage they caused or the parts they needed to replace. They aren't a specialized shop for lifted trucks, or offroad vehicles. The only shop in my area that does lifts and custom stuff like this, doesn't do alignments...I'm in a pretty bad situation right now, and everyone at different alignment places won't touch the truck knowing it was previously worked on by the shop I went to.

 

That spring doesn't look happy, maybe double check that it's installed correctly or see about some warranty there.
The brake line is an issue - that's looking pretty scary. As in "uh-oh" I've got no brakes.
Alignment on a twin traction beam is a compromise at the best of times but with that much lift it can get real hard to dial it in right. Also if you do get it just the way you want it, in a couple thousand miles the springs will have settled in a bit and everything will change (camber and toe in).
It might be an idea to learn how to set things up yourself so you can get it to and keep it exactly where you want it.
Fltdriver has done a couple of writeups on setting the caster and camber.
And I use a string line wrapped all the way around all 4 wheels to set toe in (about 1/4" closer together at the front of the front wheels).
Also make sure your rear diff is straight. Sometimes they get a little cockeyed when you put in lift blocks.

 

I'll definitely be checking into each of those elements. I'm honestly thinking of going in head first and doing a SAS; and just be done with it. I'm having a custom drive shaft made for my rear because the yoke is almost pulled out completely from the transfer case, would it be best after that to break in those coils up front by just doing some light offroading? Obviously after taking care of the break lines, and getting the coils checked out as well.

 

Part of your issue might be rough country uses the same axle drop brackets for their 6 inch lift as their 4 inch lift, or at least they do for their explorer/ranger kits. I don't know about there, but in bc Canada if I shop damages something on your vehicle they have to replace it. Took my mom's explorer in to get new studs and ball joints, the shop ****ed the rotor. Tried to get me to pay until I showed them they had to pay. Didn't get charged for anything they did

 

The level kit looks way bigger than 2" ...it's messing with the coil..

 

I'm doing a full SAS to get rid of a lot of things wrong with it as is, and it'd be better in the long run. Managed to get a good 79' straight axle that's complete. So, we're putting it in on saturday. Also, we are getting rid of the front blocks too!

 

Straight axle will be way easier to align and you should be able to sell off the old TTB system for an easy 500, which will help offset the cost of the s/a.

 

Whatcha want for your brackets and lift springs?