72Fins1

Hello I have a 1995 Ford F150 XLT 4X4 and have a driver side shock tower that broke. I'm wanting to try and do this myself to save money but with the amount of rust on my coil spring stud I'm afraid the nut and stud might not budge to get the coil spring out. What kind of mess am I in for to get the stud and nut out if the nut doesn't budge and can I get a replacement stud and nut for the coil spring? If anybody can help me out with any info here that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to view this.<br /><img src="https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/2000x1653/shock_tower_pics_6d636ac49fa6498551da4a13892fed8d6 01fa0cd.jpg"/>

BLDTruth

Start spraying the lower nut with penetrating oil now - it may require heat to get out too. I don't remember that nut being torqued down a ridiculous amount.

I'd take a good hard look at that brake line that goes through the spring/shock tower - it looks like it was relocated as well.

Steve83

Before you put a lot of effort into this project, step back & take a thorough look at the REST of the truck. Those towers are THICK - thicker than the frame. If that one has rusted to the point of fracture, there are probably a few other places not far behind. If so, there's no point repairing this one spot, just to have 5 more break next week, killing you. Talk to your insurance agent about filing a claim for a total loss of the truck, based on rust damage to the frame.

If you decide to fix it, these & their captions should help:


(phone app link)


(phone app link)

Yes, you'll need gallons of penetrating oil, and tools for stripped fasteners, and probably a torch of some kind... But the brake line looks fine to me. This & the NEXT few show how to disassemble it:


(phone app link)

72Fins1

The line is new I had to make one from the master cylinder down on that side as well as replace some other brake parts on this truck. Steve83 Thanks for the diagrams. As far as a total loss insurance claim it's a $500 truck that has a salvage title to begin with that I've added brake parts, windshield and a couple of other things. I'm from Nebraska and bought it off a neighbor and before that it was a Iowa truck so it's a rust belt truck. It runs, drives and pulls my trailers well enough where I'm not willing to give up on it without trying to fix it and right now I do have a torch. Sorry I didn't mean to write a speech here but thanks to everybody for the help here.

memoniz

You might want to check on the availability of any replacement parts you may need. If there is not one thing I can't stand is getting into a project just to find I can't finish it until the parts show up. And in case you did not know, places like Autozone or Advance Auto have the loaner spring clamps.

ProctorSilex

Some info on the bolt and nut from my 88 RWD F150 (should be same for 4x4):
388727-S2 34992-S2 (nut)
3/4" -10 x 9 1/4" long x 4" thread length
Same as F250 and F350 for many years
Aftermarket longer bolt: SPC 21020
LMC: 40-0725 40-0999 (nut)

My truck is way less rusty and removal of the bolt was a bear. I had to use all twenty Chinese tons of my press to get the bolt out. The nut, on the other hand, was not bad and is all you should need to remove the spring. The trouble with the nut was getting a socket and breaker bar in there. I think I ended up removing the whole I beam and using an impact.

72Fins1

Looks like lmc truck might have almost everything I'll probably get the parts from them since I need to order at least a new set of door locks since my truck didn't come with door keys. I didn't know about the spring clamps so thanks for telling me about that.

72Fins1

I'm thinking worst case scenario for the nut is if it doesn't budge is just destroy enough of it to get it off the threads and get another nut. The thing that concerns me the most is then if I could clean up the threads on the coil spring stud enough to put another nut on without stripping the threads in the nut in the process.

Steve83

A local locksmith will probably make impression keys for the truck cheaper than replacing the lock cylinders. A die or thread file can clean up the stud threads before installing a new nut, but cracking a nut that large will be difficult - especially with the spring in the way.