so my driver side rear tire has been locking up the passenger side rear gets hot but never as hot the driver side will look like lava, i have been fighting this issue for a while now, i have all new hardware excluding the abs hydraulic unit, VSS.
i have been doing a bit of research and pulled the ABS light codes on the truck i have gotten 8 short flashes with 1 long flash then it repeats. i believe the long flash symbolizes the end of the reading so 8 flashes reads no dump valve self test but i need further info on that i don't understand. help a noob.


*edit* apparently i am a noob because i read somewhere you are supposed to read the codes together so then i would have a code 9 and that is high sensor resistance, would that be my VSS?

*UPDATE*
So i went to advance and purchased the VSS thinking a 20 dollar hit and miss is better than a 130. so i got home pulled the old one, cleaned the connector and added some di-electric grease and popped the new sensor in, my abs light turns on with the truck but immediately shuts off now hopefully this has resolved my issue however im still hesitant on that because every other time i thought ive fixed it, it randomly locks up again so ill just have to drive it around next week and ill post another update.

*TEST DRIVE UPDATE*
took her for a test drive and speedo did better actually reads before 10 MPH now, tranny shifted alot smoother than usual going into 2nd (e4od). but once i got down the road and came to a stop both my Parking Brake light and the ABS light came on!!! Now I am getting a Code 4 so and have done some research leading to a manual guide on testing the rabs ill have to wait for the rain to quit tomorrow.
-sincerely the guy with lava rotors

 

so i have replaced the rabs control module due to testing leading me to believe it was bad i followed the following instructions i found researching my problem at: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/559310_1 and http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/586180_1.

now im completely confused because someone told me that if the pin 6 to chassis read over 26k ohms that it could be an open circuit issue in 535.
mine read a resistance of 16.35k MegaOhms so im assuming my issue is open circuit in 535 but im kinda lost on where to begin repair of this.

 

Both lights are on, air in the system.

 

that's the only thing you ever think it is, failed RABS internal switch stuck open. AINT NO DAMN AIR IN IT SEAN! :P

no moar lights so far :P

 

When both lights are on, that's what it is. The internal switch must not have been letting it bleed.