asdaven

Hi-
Just looking for some insight. I got some load resistors for my LED taillights. I'm not a fan of scotch lock connectors. I'd rather solder the connections. Has anybody done this? How do you seal it up since you can't slide a piece of shink tubing on? Just electrical tape?

Also, mounting them. Do you use a special double stick tape or self tapping screws? And if screws, what kind of screws do you use to avoid a reaction with the aluminum body because steel and aluminum is a no-no?

Thanks-

nineball

i would use liquid electrical tape if you can't use heatshrink.

3m double sided tape works great. you can get a roll at any autoparts store. just be sure to clean the areas (both sides) very well.

BlueSpark

Yeah, I prefer to solder, myself. The liquid electrical tape (comes in a brush/bottle and spray at most hardware stores... or amazon) works fine. I use it on tight spots on my Harley, and it's perfectly waterproof and doesn't get brittle.

I agree with the 3M tape, too (and the importance of the surface prep). You may want to make sure you get the high-strength and/or the waterproof kind.

Once you put the load resistors on, you'll start to notice all the people out there who didn't...

jschmidt

Isn't there a flasher replacement for the F150 that fixes this problem? I haven't heard of using resistors in a long time.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

ep25

BlueSpark

I tried 3 flashers in my 2011 before I went to load resistors. None of them fit (too big for the space allowed in the fuse box).

.

2008__XL

The flasher is an EP-27 and they DO NOT work on any F150’s after 2008. If you have a 2009 or newer F150, it’s not as easy as just replacing the flasher unit.

You need to either add load resistors or use forscan to correct the hyper flashing.

jschmidt

Sorry to derail.

I looked myself and there seems to be a forscan setting for the newest generation. Just another option. I believe you can also get bulbs that are engineered woth a resistor.

asdaven

I ended up cutting the tail light wires so I could use heat shrink since you can't cut heat shrink down the middle and slip it over. I twisted the wires into a 3 way in line connection and soldered them. Then heatshrinked over with additional electrical tape (Scotch 33 Tape) over the ends of the heat shrink. Then tried to stuff the wires back into the plastic factory loom and taped that up.

I forgot to use dielectric silicone under the heatshrink tho. I thought about the liquid electrical tape but was worried about it having issues curing in the cold temperatures. I ended up mounting the resistors with 6-32 aluminum screws through-bolted with a nut in the back and tapped the holes with a 6-32 tap. Aluminum screws are a pain in the **** cause they are soft and break easily....but was worried about putting stainless steel screws into the aluminum body. My only other concern is that the wiring dosent allow a lot of movement taking the taillights in and out but there wasn't much there from the factory. I put some additional electrical tape where the resistor wires rub the edge of the metal. The taillight wires sure are thin and I would highly recommend staying away from scotchlocks! They may make a 3 way crimp connector to do this too.

BlueSpark

I’m sure you’ll be fine. Since the LED bulbs never die (we’ll see) you won’t be going in there much, anyway.

If you’ve soldered, why dialectric grease under the heatshrink? (Not using marine shrink wrap?) I’m always up for learning a new technique!