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TT fully loaded (no water)
Axles 5676
TW 1012
Way off TW compared to dry.
Now I weighted 2 different chain tensions and unhooked. I count my chain links starting at the bar U bolt so more links means less tension. I was always using 6 links but I found the truck to still have a good rake and the handling was squishy in the rear. I tested 7 links (less tension) and I found the handling MUCH better. Truck is more level.Here are my weights (no occupants) (remember unloaded truck Front is 2926)
...............Unhooked..6 links..7 links
Front ......2574.........2948....2816
Rear .......3740.........3190....3388
TT axles...5764........5940....5852
As you an see, at 6 links (more tension) the front axle receives some weight from the trailer. At 7 links (less tension) the front is lighter than unloaded. But the setup with less tension is the more stable one. I noticed that the setup with more tension, the trailer is slightly unleveled to the back by about an inch on the whole length. With less tension, everything is leveled but the front axle is lighter than unloaded. Do you guys see any problems with that?
I will try lowering he hitch head by 1 hole (1.25 in) and redo my test drive and weighting.
Here is a pic with 6 links (more tension) (scale is in kg)
Chances are if you were to measure the front, you were a little lower than empty at the top of the wheel well, and now probably about half the distance hitched without bars and unhitched. I would say you got it as close to perfect as it could be.
Your steer axle may be a bit lighter with 7 links than when unloaded, but you are within 100 pounds. Since one of the primary reasons for moving weight back to the steer axle is to help handling, it sounds like the 7 link setting is about right. Also, having the trailer slightly nose down or level is preferred to nose up (which is what the 6 link setting seems to be showing).
Chances are if you were to measure the front, you were a little lower than empty at the top of the wheel well, and now probably about half the distance hitched without bars and unhitched. I would say you got it as close to perfect as it could be.
6 links, front fender is the same as unhitched. 7 links, a tad higher.
The less WD tension you can get away with the better off you are. The only issue I see with what you have is how will the truck be loaded for a trip? One of the biggest mistakes people make is adjusting the hitch before they load the TV. They then use the WDH to compensate for the load in the truck and hitch weight. Only use the WDH to compensate for hitch load especially with the standard round bar type hitches, otherwise excessive bouncing will be the result.
I had about half my usual load in the bed when I weighted all this so I wasn't too far off. I already lowered my hitch head 1 position and I will redo the test when I can.
You don't want to overload the front axle, steering will get heavy and the alignment will be off. Your scale at 7 links will more than likely be the best one. When I had the round bar husky, I got the fender at the unloaded height, and it handled like crap with the trailer swaying, reducing it helped a bit, but replacing the hitch with a Blue Ox cured it once and for all. That hitch returned front axle back 100% and move weight to the trailer, the Husky was not moving weight back like it should.
I don't ever recall seeing scales as fancy as the one you're at here in Oregon. To date as much as I advocate about getting on a scale I have not really been on one...yet
I don't ever recall seeing scales as fancy as the one you're at here in Oregon. To date as much as I advocate about getting on a scale I have not really been on one...yet
This is in QC, Canada. With so many independent axle scale, I was able to weight the trailer unhitch.
Visited the scale
