Rodney Ellis

I have a new 2014 F150 w/ Ecoboost engine. I tow a 35ft travel trailer approximately 8000lbs. For power it's has plenty on problem there, problem is it seems to sway a little to much for me. I have the twin cam weight distribution hitch system. I pulled the same camper with my old 2003 F150 with triton V8 and it pulled great. Not sure why the new truck sways so much. Sometimes it's scary. And ideas?

badercubed

Did you readjust the hitch for the new truck? Just visually speaking, the original height of the back end is probably higher on the '14 than the '03 was so the WDH will need to be reconfigured for the new truck. Also, what was the payload on the '03 as compared to what your yellow door sticker says on the '14?

I found that my rear ends got progressively stiffer and I felt I needed more tongue weight the newer the truck got to prevent sway (went from '06 to '10 and now to '13).

xcntrk

Probably tires and soft suspension. Did your F150 come with the crappy P-rated tires? Upgrading to a set of E-rated tires and firming up the suspension (shocks/helper-springs/bags/etc.) makes a huge difference.

Rodney Ellis

I did upgrade from P rated to E rated tires and it seem to be a big help. I went back to where I bought the camper to readjust hitch and they said it was good as is. The 2014 has a higher tow and load rating them the 2003 had.

Wannafbody

Do a search for A7310 Stableload. That might help.

xcntrk

Before getting too caught up in trying to diagnose the problem without any real data, my suggestion would be to get an accurate set of weight numbers to help determine if your hitch is proper set up. It will cost you $10 bucks and several hours of time.

Hitch up your travel trailer and head to the nearest CAT scale. Weigh the TV & TT combined with your hitch dialed in as you normally set it. Then move off the scale and into one of the truck parking slots. Disconnect & secure the TT, then run right back through the scale for a re-weigh with just the TV. Then go in and fetch the CAT print out tickets.

Armed with the weight data from these two measurements you'll be able to identify every value necessary to properly setup your towing situation. This includes from the Tow Vehicle; GCWR, GVWR, F-GAWR, R-GAWR, and from the Travel Trailer; GVWR, tongue weight, axle weight, per tire weight. Then you can match those against the unloaded figures to determine how the trailer tongue weight is being distributed and if you're over weight (or under weight - misconfigured) in any area.

Here is a tool to use where you can plug that data in and the tool will run a bunch of calculations to help present it in a form that is easily interpreted.
https://www.f150forum.com/f82/traile...tility-244126/

badercubed

While there, you should get a 3rd weight without the WDH locked into place to give you true readings for what the tongue weight and trailer weight is.

xcntrk

Yeah, only reason I didn't mention that is because a 3rd weight will require an additional ticket. On a CAT scale you get 2 weighs with the original price. One primary weigh, then one re-weigh. Adding in a 3rd is a whole new order (where you would then get 4 total weighs).

But that said, I agree it's great info to have.

badercubed

When I went to the one in Waterloo, NY, I got one original and two re-weighs (I think $10, $2 and $2 respectively).

acadianbob

If the ball height on your new truck is not correct for the trailer, nothing is going to work properly. The ball on your truck should be about 1" higher than the distance from the ground to the inside of the coupler on the trailer when the trailer is level. Go to etrailer.com for some great adjustment information.

It may be that your trailer isn't level when you are towing. If the rear of the trailer is down vs the front, it will induce sway.