Actual weight is the best but you can get an idea by deflating the air bags and taking front and rear fender measurements with and without the trailer, don't move the truck just lift the trailer off the ball. Front is more important and if it lifts much more then 1/2" I would use a WDH. If you do this post your results

 

I appreciate all these replies, but only a couple are actually answering my question.

I know what a WDH hitch does.

I know I am over the F150s max tongue weight of 500# without a WDH. I know the trailer is at least 2700 lbs, I know the RZR is at least 1600 lbs. I know all the stuff the lady brings is around 200 lbs. add another 60 lbs if we bring the grill. So without adding anything extra I am already at 546 lb TW with 12%. I definitely will be after the cabinets, fridge, ac, and such are added.

The GTWR is 7,000 lbs. So maxed out, I will technically still be under the 7,600 lb max on the F150 setup I have. Planning on keeping it under 5,500 lbs.

I know air bags don't transfer weight to the front axle. I only included them because they are on the truck, and some WDH specifically say not to use with air bags.

I know I will have to adjust settings/placement of weight, as I add weight to the trailer.

I know I need a WDH.

I just wanted to know what kind of WDH would work with the style of trailer I have. What other people have tried? Opinions/suggestions?

sennister - I have read many good things about the Equalizer - How would I get the bars onto the holders with the holders so far under the trailer? I mentioned in an earlier post about fabricating a different angled tool to get the bars up on the holder, but that seemed like a less than fun way to do it. Especially if its wet out, or in the snow. Level there is only 12 in from ground to trailer.

I will be getting an electric jack when I wire the trailer for 30 amp service. Wanted to do all the electrical at once after the insulation, and windows are mounted.

 

The electric jack will help with that. You hitch the trailer to the truck then jack up the trailer lifting the back of the truck. If you get a strong enough jack you will likely be able to lift the truck so much that you don't even need the tool to get the bar up on the holder. I have a buddy that keeps his truck at my place and he has a trailer (camper) a lot heavier what you are towing and he doesn't use the tool. No way you would be able to do that with the manual jack though. Well you probably could but would quickly look like a crab as mentioned.

Of the options I think that one of those options I mentioned showing the Equalizer is probably your best. Whichever option they listed that makes the most sense in your application. I don't personally use an Equalizer but based on that info I would probably go that route personally. Though like they say, do what makes sense to you. You are pulling it so I can toss out some ideas and see what sticks.

As for all the other comments, some from me, keep in mind we don't know what you know so take them with a grain of salt. We can only go by what you have posted and since you are new we assume you don't know anything as that is all we have to go off of. So often we start pretty basic. You would be amazed at how many people think they can tow more because they added airbags. You can actually tow less because it is more of a hit at the payload. Welcome to the forum.

 

I like my equalizer but I'm not sure you have enough space on your frame to mount the L brackets at the proper distance. Go to their website and pull up the user manual to see. Then you can measure.

Edit: I see they have a section specifically for V-nose trailers:

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-guides/installation-guides/v-nose-trailer-installation-guide

 

I guess one question I have is what is the payload rating on your truck? Maybe I missed it but I don't think I saw that. Normally that is where people run out of capacity first. It is on the yellow and white sticker in the driver's door opening of the truck. Also you are adding quite a bit of weight to the trailer. Probably fine but there should be a cargo number for that as well. Just keep it in mind.

 

Yeah I kind of have that concern as well. I would look over the user manual as you said and that link as to the different options. I am not sure how much the bars slide in those L brackets when making tight turns. I don't think they move a lot but I do thing they slide a bit as it is how they generate friction for the sway control. I personally use a BlueOx SwayPro but I don't think it would work for his setup with the V nose.

 

Thank you for the help. Didn't mean to sound crabby if I did. I should have been more detailed when explaining everything I have already done.

I will look more in the Equalizer setup, and see if I can make that work.

The frame is 6" tube. Ill go take a picture quick.

 

 

No worries. The crab comment was in reference to the manual jack and lifting up the back of the truck building up a really big arm. The problem with forums like email is the tone of the conversation isn't there so sometimes people imply things differently than intended.

I just hope that with the Equalizer doesn't require something drastic like notching the bottom of the diamond plate. I don't know where the floor is in relation to the leading edge of the trailer to know if it is even an option. As I said, I haven't personally used an Equalizer but they are well regarded in towing so I wouldn't hesitate. I don't know if their customer support is anything like BlueOx but they were great when I was shopping and had some questions. If they are as good as BO they might be able to help if you had all the measurements like the distance from the coupler to that diamond plate so they know what you are working with in terms of clearance. Maybe all that is covered in that guide for V-Nose trailers I mentioned before. Honestly I didn't read it. I glanced at it and passed it along once it looked like it might help you.

 

What is that second pic of? Is that from the coupler (where the ball goes) to what? I can see the shed so I get that it is along the bottom of the frame.

In that first pic I can see the floor which is as I expected on top of the frame. I also think that is diamond plate along the left side. Worst case you might have to cut a notch in the diamond plate if there isn't enough clearance for the length of the bars when turning. A notch would probably look better than denting it up in a tight turn.