Hello,

Truck:
2020 F150 XLT 2.7L Ecoboost with Base Tow Package (Trailer assist, sway control)
Ride Control 2000lb air bags
Toyo Open Country AT3 10 ply 275/70/18

Trailer:
2021 Bravo Scout 8.5' x 18' Tandem Axle 2,700lb Empty
4,550 lb fully loaded with RZR, and camping gear

I have tried the RZR loaded in forwards and backwards with no difference in towing. I am leaning towards always loading the RZR backwards for the increased tongue weight. Don't know exact tongue weight with setup.

With 40lbs of air in the bags, the Truck is 1/2" higher in rear than the front, and the trailer is 1/2" higher in the rear than the front. So light rake on both truck, and trailer.

0-50 mph is decent slight sway with wind, or big bumps. 50-65 mph has the truck "wandering". The trailer always returns to center behind the truck, so I don't believe the sway is "dangerous" at this point, more of an annoyance to constantly correct the "wandering" due to wind/semis.

I believe a WDH will help with this problem. The issue I am running into is the distance between the ball, and the trailer itself. (see below image).

Does anyone have a suggestion on which WDH would work with my trailer? I will be forced to weld any attachment points on to the frame of trailer, as the floor is glued to the frame.

If any additional information is needed, please ask.

 

Yeah those V-Nose trailers are nice but the short A Frame make it tricky for a WD Hitch. I have never pulled one so I don't know what options are out there for sure.

At your weight you are borderline. I personally would like to use a WD Hitch. Being it is a RZR it is a little easier to maybe shoot for that 10%-11% TW. You do have tall sidewalls. At that you would be in the 450 - 500# weight range which technically you could probably get away without a WD Hitch. I just would prefer it due to the tall sides catching the wind more like a camper.

You can find your TW at home with a bathroom scale and some wood.

This is one of the first videos I found in a quick search.

 

You've got too many variables in play and you're adding more confusion to the mix.

Before getting into a WDH w/ sway control, pick how you will consistently load the trailer with the RZR and other gear. Also pick the PSI your bags and tires will be inflated to each time you tow.

You also need to find out what your fully loaded weight of the trailer is and the tongue weight. Not based on the trailer specs but on the scale. Ensure that it has about 12% tongue weight. If it does not, move the RZR forward or back to get that.

Start with things like that as to make some constants and it will make introducing other equipment (WDH and/or sway control) much more easy to adjust.

 

Sounds you wouldn't need that much actual weight distribution, but more stability and sway resistance. I'd look into the Andersen weight distribution hitch. The concept of the pulling chain makes it hard to distribute hundreds of pounds, but in my opinion it does a decent job in adding sway control. And you might be able to use shorter than usual chain length considering the special situation with your trailer nose.

 

clarkbre - Thanks for the advice. I have spent many hours outside measuring, adjusting, driving around on country roads to try and stop the "wandering".

I have moved the RZR up and down the trailer, facing forwards and backwards to adjust TW, with little/no change in sway. Tried truck exactly level, some rear squat, more rake, higher tire pressure, lower tire pressure, and nothing really changed but a rougher ride.

Best setup so far:
Truck Tires - 60psi Rear / 50 PSI Front - Very minimal squat in tires with trailer added
Air bags are at 40PSI to get the 1/2" rake on the truck
RZR in backwards with engine just in front of the front most axle
Trailer is sitting at 1/2" rake with above truck settings

12% of my guesstimated overall weight is 546lbs... which by the book requires me to have a WDH hitch regardless.

I agree that taking it to the scale would be the best idea, but I'm not convinced TW is the issue. More the big slanted v nose behind me.

I will be adding cabinets, fridge, air conditioner, storage, so the trailer will just continue to increase in weight over the next year.

My original question was what WDH would work with the short A frame V Nose trailer? That question still applies.

 

I have seen other threads where people literally cut out part of their V and make the wdh work. I personally think you are still light on the tongue... I'm also not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the air bags, it's not like you are overloaded, and they are not helping matters only raising your truck rear when no weight is re-distributed to the front axles. Air bags are way overrated, they are good only when you have the weight redistributed properly and you still have a sag you would like to level.

 

I have seen the Andersen Hitches. There seems to be a giant population that love it, and a giant population that hate it. From my research I agree that for my application it sounds like the Andersen would work well. The problems I have seen comes when people are trying to distribute 1,300 lbs of TW with the chains.

I think my options are Andersen, or a Bar + Chain kind of setup. Weld the hook/bar onto the frame, jack up the trailer/truck, and hook the chain/attach the plate.

I have debated if a bar type would work if I fabricated some kind of modified pry bar to get the bars up on the holders that would work underneath the trailer, but that sounds like a lot of messing around, and crawling under trailer to get it hooked up.

Was hoping someone else had already accomplished adding a WDH to this style of trailer.

 

Just because you look level (40PSI in the bags) doesn't mean the load is transferred properly. That is what a WD hitch does.

A quick search came up with these hangers.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-217546.html

I know I have mentioned them to someone in the past that had a dump trailer that had a similar problem because they have a large storage area for the hydraulics and battery in the A Frame that made it hard to do the normal solution for a WD hitch as they typically saddle the A Frame. The one concern I would have with this style is that manual tongue jack that you have. You might want to swap that out with a power one because to get the chains on you need to lift the back of the truck with the trailer jack. Or after a while you might look like a Crab with one huge arm and one normal one.

Depending on how much weight you add in cabinets and such, you are going to be blowing past that 500# limit. Like I said before, I don't like 10-11% TW but based on your numbers that is your option right now with no WD hitch. I personally like 13% on a camper because it is hard to shift weight if you have to. in your case you could adjust the RZR a bit to tweak the weight which is harder to do with a camper. Though you are almost building a toy hauler and the closer you get to that the more it will tow like a camper.

Some more options.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/manua...allation-guide

 

The air bags were originally for when I have my 2 125 lb 13' kayaks, wood, grill, misc camping gear, and a back seat full of clothes, food, etc. It just made the truck level, and ride much nicer.

Also took a lot of the bounce out of the suspension when loaded.

 

As others have recommended you need to get the real numbers before looking for a solution. You really don’t know what/if there is a problem. Guesses or estimates of weight cause confusion especially since it will get even more heavy and could even get way too heavy for your truck model.

Air bags are cosmetic and don’t change the issue if there is one, they just make it look different or hide it but don’t fix anything with weight.