Looking at a Jayco TT
#11
Both trailers I have owned, Newbie and I trailer experience, have both been over 30'. I think a longer trailer is probably easier to back (and learn to back) than a shorter one.
Take your time when learning. Go to a large parking lot (like a High School on a weekend) and make the trailer do weird things. You can always pull forward and straighten out. This will give you a feel for the sharpness of the turn. The longer trailer will have a slower reaction to turning while backing. I see this as more forgiving. You can see the track well before you are "too far" and can make necessary corrections.
I've been towing about 5 years now and, with zero previous towing experience, I can usually put my 34'er in any campsite/driveway on the first try.
I have tried backing a shorter (12'-15') trailer and it is amazing how quick they get off track on you.
Take your time when learning. Go to a large parking lot (like a High School on a weekend) and make the trailer do weird things. You can always pull forward and straighten out. This will give you a feel for the sharpness of the turn. The longer trailer will have a slower reaction to turning while backing. I see this as more forgiving. You can see the track well before you are "too far" and can make necessary corrections.
I've been towing about 5 years now and, with zero previous towing experience, I can usually put my 34'er in any campsite/driveway on the first try.
I have tried backing a shorter (12'-15') trailer and it is amazing how quick they get off track on you.
#12
Senior Member
If you can get a tongue weight on a trailer that is on the lot with battery and LP tanks installed, do that. Dry tongue weight does not include either and since they sit pretty far forward, most of their weight lands on the tongue rather than the axles.
If the payload still checks out, you need to look at GCVWR
Truck + occupants & gear (including the hitch itself) + trailer.
I know for my truck I run into GCVWR before I run into a payload issue (using 13%).
I have yet to see one of these threads where Smokeywren doesn't show up and tell the OP that they will be over payload. At least this time he didn't throw out his truck (with a topper) as an example and used a reasonably close payload (usually he hangs his hat on the ~1400 payload that was typical with the previous gen). If you want a laugh, do a search for his thread about towing way over weight across Texas (its funny because he's the weight police around here).
If the payload still checks out, you need to look at GCVWR
Truck + occupants & gear (including the hitch itself) + trailer.
I know for my truck I run into GCVWR before I run into a payload issue (using 13%).
I have yet to see one of these threads where Smokeywren doesn't show up and tell the OP that they will be over payload. At least this time he didn't throw out his truck (with a topper) as an example and used a reasonably close payload (usually he hangs his hat on the ~1400 payload that was typical with the previous gen). If you want a laugh, do a search for his thread about towing way over weight across Texas (its funny because he's the weight police around here).
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zx12-iowa (03-01-2017)
#13
Member
This will be my 3rd year pulling an Eagle 28BHBE and my 2010 is not overloaded but I do pack carefully. I have 1683lbs of payload.
You will be approaching the upper limits and I would strongly recommend investing in a good quality hitch. I use the Propride 3P. You can look up the Propride and Hensley hitches which are similar in design, expensive and worth every penny, especially when you are towing at the upper limits of your F150. The hitch is what is connecting your $50k truck to your $25k trailer. Having sway with a 30+ ft travel trailer is not an experience you will want to go through twice.
The factory specs on the trailer I ordered was 6600 and it ended up being 7300 lbs delivered and it is 8000 lbs loaded for camping which gives me a tongue weight of 1050 lbs (13%=1040lbs). The GVWR on my trailer is 9300 lbs (IIRC) so I could load another 1300 lbs of water and stuff, but I don't need to. I do not travel with filled water tanks as 84 gallons would add another 700lbs.
In the TV, it my wife, son and I and avoid placing anything heavy in the box while towing because I am close on payload.
What Smoky says is correct, it is quite possible to pack in such a way that you will be overloaded but it is also possible to remain within all of the ratings on your F150 if you pack carefully. For example, if you load a bunch of heavy stuff in the front passthrough on the trailer, it is easy to increase the trailer tongue weight by 200 to 300 lbs which will exceed your hitch ratings. Removing 300 lbs of stuff from the truck box and placing it in the trailer free up 300 lbs of payload and only increase your tongue weight by 36 lbs at 12% tongue weight.
When it was time to replace tires, I got LT tires because the cost was only an extra $25 per tire. I also added airbags which I use a small handheld air pump to inflate while towing and deflate when not towing.
I have not had a single incident where I wished I had a bigger more expensive tow vehicle (although 925 ft lbs of torque in the PSD would make climbing mountains while towing more fun). I get 9 to 10.5 mpg depending on conditions. I am heading from Canada to Florida again this spring and have no concerns over the safety of this setup. I am quite certain that I will not be getting a larger trailer in the future and my next TV will probably be an F150 but I will probably search for a Heavy Duty Payload Package equipped truck with some great options that make it a better towing platform.
If you have any further questions, feel free to post them or PM me.
You will be approaching the upper limits and I would strongly recommend investing in a good quality hitch. I use the Propride 3P. You can look up the Propride and Hensley hitches which are similar in design, expensive and worth every penny, especially when you are towing at the upper limits of your F150. The hitch is what is connecting your $50k truck to your $25k trailer. Having sway with a 30+ ft travel trailer is not an experience you will want to go through twice.
The factory specs on the trailer I ordered was 6600 and it ended up being 7300 lbs delivered and it is 8000 lbs loaded for camping which gives me a tongue weight of 1050 lbs (13%=1040lbs). The GVWR on my trailer is 9300 lbs (IIRC) so I could load another 1300 lbs of water and stuff, but I don't need to. I do not travel with filled water tanks as 84 gallons would add another 700lbs.
In the TV, it my wife, son and I and avoid placing anything heavy in the box while towing because I am close on payload.
What Smoky says is correct, it is quite possible to pack in such a way that you will be overloaded but it is also possible to remain within all of the ratings on your F150 if you pack carefully. For example, if you load a bunch of heavy stuff in the front passthrough on the trailer, it is easy to increase the trailer tongue weight by 200 to 300 lbs which will exceed your hitch ratings. Removing 300 lbs of stuff from the truck box and placing it in the trailer free up 300 lbs of payload and only increase your tongue weight by 36 lbs at 12% tongue weight.
When it was time to replace tires, I got LT tires because the cost was only an extra $25 per tire. I also added airbags which I use a small handheld air pump to inflate while towing and deflate when not towing.
I have not had a single incident where I wished I had a bigger more expensive tow vehicle (although 925 ft lbs of torque in the PSD would make climbing mountains while towing more fun). I get 9 to 10.5 mpg depending on conditions. I am heading from Canada to Florida again this spring and have no concerns over the safety of this setup. I am quite certain that I will not be getting a larger trailer in the future and my next TV will probably be an F150 but I will probably search for a Heavy Duty Payload Package equipped truck with some great options that make it a better towing platform.
If you have any further questions, feel free to post them or PM me.
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Velosprout (02-17-2017)
#14
I also have a Jayco 28BHBE. I am having problems towing this thing. It bucks the truck up and down when we are on the hwy. I have had 2 jayco dealers setup my hitch and nothing changed. I have a Curt Trunnion WDH. I have a 2015 F150 3.5 EB. How do you have your WDH setup? Any suggestions?
#15
Senior Member
There's your problem...
WDH setup isn't something the dealer can do. You have to do it. If you've not read the manual yet do so.
You'll want the TV & TT fully loaded for camping.
You'll also want to make 3 passes through a scale once you've been through the rough setup in the WDH manual to confirm the setup.
- TV & TT w/WDH engaged
- TV & TT w/WDH disengaged
- TV only
In all cases, the TV & TT should be fully loaded for camping. Including a full fuel tank in the TV. Clothes, food, drinks in the TT.
PITA? Yep...
Worth it? Yep...your family is riding in that rig.
Also note that if you setup for normal weekend trips. And at some point decide on a weeklong trip...you're probably want to make at least 2 passes through the scale (with & without WDH engaged) to see how the numbers look. You can use the TV only weight from your original setup. Unless you've significantly changed what you have in the TV. Hopefully, all you might need to do is rearrange TT load and/or adjust the number of links on your WDH.
Honestly, a couple passes throughout the season isn't a bad idea...confirming that you're still where you think you are; before changes start to affect the towing.
WDH setup isn't something the dealer can do. You have to do it. If you've not read the manual yet do so.
You'll want the TV & TT fully loaded for camping.
You'll also want to make 3 passes through a scale once you've been through the rough setup in the WDH manual to confirm the setup.
- TV & TT w/WDH engaged
- TV & TT w/WDH disengaged
- TV only
In all cases, the TV & TT should be fully loaded for camping. Including a full fuel tank in the TV. Clothes, food, drinks in the TT.
PITA? Yep...
Worth it? Yep...your family is riding in that rig.
Also note that if you setup for normal weekend trips. And at some point decide on a weeklong trip...you're probably want to make at least 2 passes through the scale (with & without WDH engaged) to see how the numbers look. You can use the TV only weight from your original setup. Unless you've significantly changed what you have in the TV. Hopefully, all you might need to do is rearrange TT load and/or adjust the number of links on your WDH.
Honestly, a couple passes throughout the season isn't a bad idea...confirming that you're still where you think you are; before changes start to affect the towing.
Last edited by charles_slc; 05-24-2017 at 11:42 AM. Reason: typo
#16
Senior Member
On your other thread, it was suggested you check your Payload and see how much over capacity you might be.
#18
I went to the scale tonight and this is what I found out.
TV/TT= 13,280lbs
TV= 6080lbs
TV w/WDH engaged = 6720lbs
Tongue Weight= 640lbs
TT= 7200lbs
I think the reason I am getting bounced around is because my tongue weight is light. I have CURT Trutrack 17500 WDH. I think I have too much tension on the trunnion bars. Anyone familiar with this WDH? Do I just lower the "L" brackets so there isn't so much tension on the bars? Will this increase my tongue weight? Do I put more stuff in the front pass through of the camper?
TV/TT= 13,280lbs
TV= 6080lbs
TV w/WDH engaged = 6720lbs
Tongue Weight= 640lbs
TT= 7200lbs
I think the reason I am getting bounced around is because my tongue weight is light. I have CURT Trutrack 17500 WDH. I think I have too much tension on the trunnion bars. Anyone familiar with this WDH? Do I just lower the "L" brackets so there isn't so much tension on the bars? Will this increase my tongue weight? Do I put more stuff in the front pass through of the camper?
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I went to the scale tonight and this is what I found out.
TV/TT= 13,280lbs
TV= 6080lbs
TV w/WDH engaged = 6720lbs
Tongue Weight= 640lbs
TT= 7200lbs
I think the reason I am getting bounced around is because my tongue weight is light. I have CURT Trutrack 17500 WDH. I think I have too much tension on the trunnion bars. Anyone familiar with this WDH? Do I just lower the "L" brackets so there isn't so much tension on the bars? Will this increase my tongue weight? Do I put more stuff in the front pass through of the camper?
TV/TT= 13,280lbs
TV= 6080lbs
TV w/WDH engaged = 6720lbs
Tongue Weight= 640lbs
TT= 7200lbs
I think the reason I am getting bounced around is because my tongue weight is light. I have CURT Trutrack 17500 WDH. I think I have too much tension on the trunnion bars. Anyone familiar with this WDH? Do I just lower the "L" brackets so there isn't so much tension on the bars? Will this increase my tongue weight? Do I put more stuff in the front pass through of the camper?
Here is a scaled down example of what a lite tongue can do:
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charles_slc (05-24-2017)