Hitting GCWR Before Payload?
Just traded my Subaru Outback in for a 2018 2.7 super crew F150. I know all the important limits/ numbers from the door sticker and the towing guide.
My concern is, I will hit the GCWR before even my payload limit (I'm travelling solo).
GVWR- 6,600
Payload - 1,539
Towing guide max tow - 7,600
GCWR 12,900
This is where I'm stumped, GVWR of 6,600 and Max tow of 7,600 = 14,200 WAY over my GCWR. It seems like my GCWR is too low.
Assuming maximum GVWR 6,600(driver, gas, hitch weight), that means my REAL towing limit is 6,300? That is some bull****.
I wanted a 2020 Grand Design 2600RB which weighs 5,725. I figure 6,500 after it's loaded with stuff (30 Ft length).
The obvious answer is get a smaller trailer. Any tips or advice is appreciated.
Thanks
My concern is, I will hit the GCWR before even my payload limit (I'm travelling solo).
GVWR- 6,600
Payload - 1,539
Towing guide max tow - 7,600
GCWR 12,900
This is where I'm stumped, GVWR of 6,600 and Max tow of 7,600 = 14,200 WAY over my GCWR. It seems like my GCWR is too low.
Assuming maximum GVWR 6,600(driver, gas, hitch weight), that means my REAL towing limit is 6,300? That is some bull****.
I wanted a 2020 Grand Design 2600RB which weighs 5,725. I figure 6,500 after it's loaded with stuff (30 Ft length).
The obvious answer is get a smaller trailer. Any tips or advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Last edited by RobFromErie; Feb 6, 2024 at 05:33 PM.
When Ford builds trucks with the 2.7 they don't anticipate owners will try to pull anything more than a 3000 lb utility trailer and they don't equip those trucks for towing. They figure anybody who is going to tow any real weight is going to opt for the 3.5 and more of those are better equipped.
Does your truck even have the tow package with a transmission cooler? What is the axle ratio? All of that matters too. And I don't care what the specs say around 8000 lbs is the realistic upper limits for ANY 1/2 ton to tow. I know they show some well over 10K on paper. But that is under ideal conditions on level ground near sea level.
If you really want to try to tow 6500 lbs you're knocking on the door of F250 territory, especially at 30' long.
Does your truck even have the tow package with a transmission cooler? What is the axle ratio? All of that matters too. And I don't care what the specs say around 8000 lbs is the realistic upper limits for ANY 1/2 ton to tow. I know they show some well over 10K on paper. But that is under ideal conditions on level ground near sea level.
If you really want to try to tow 6500 lbs you're knocking on the door of F250 territory, especially at 30' long.
Well I'm not trying to tow 10k.....or 8k.....
I didn't think 6,500 was going to be such a hassle either.
My axle ratio is 3.55. Yes i have the tow package.
Which I didn't mention.....because....I know i have them.
Also just paid the dealer close to $400 to install the Ford trailer brake controller.
I didn't think 6,500 was going to be such a hassle either.
My axle ratio is 3.55. Yes i have the tow package.
Which I didn't mention.....because....I know i have them.
Also just paid the dealer close to $400 to install the Ford trailer brake controller.
I tow a Grand Design 2400BH 7700 GVWR trailer behind my 53a 2020 F150 screw 2.7 with 3.73 gears rated to tow 8200lbs with 13300 GCWR. My trailer is loaded in the area of 7000lbs for the long distance driving and then I fill up my water tank close to or at arrival. I will say that I have absolutely no powertrain issues: the engine performs marvelously, the tranmission temps never cross 220 and only get there on 1000ft elevation hill climbs on windy roads with 30mph speed limit and switchbacks, the engine braking is decent on descent and I don't have to burn up my brakes. I've 35000 miles on my vehicle around 7000 of that towing and I have around 50% of my brake pads remaining. I use full synthetic oil and tow with 91/93 octane but have tried 87 and nothing bad happens but you can notice the loss of power.
Also if you look at the 2021 and newer F150s with the 2.7 payload package the GCWR is bumped up to 15000lbs. This is because this option gets you the half-floating 9.75 rear diff and axle as opposed to the half-floating super 8.8 rear diff and axle which yours and my truck has. This diff is the primary element responsible for the lower GCWR.
I will be changing my diff fluid shortly as I know this is a part of my vehicle I am subjecting to severe duty. The OEM stuff in there is rated 75w/85 viscosity. I am debating going with 75w/140 gear oil as that will truly protect my diff but at the expense of a small amount of mpg (I have no idea how much but I'm guessing 0.5). Or I might just go with fresh 75w/85 or 75w/90 full synthetic. When I got my truck and first starting towing with it I used a temperature gun on the diff housing after long hill ascents or long 65mph highway pulls and at worst it read 192F which I understand to not be too hot at all (220 and up is starting to get toasty).
IMO I wouldn't worry too much about pushing that GCWR limit as long as your trailer has good brake function (which a new GD trailer definitely will). And you can compensate with thicker gear oil or more frequent changes if you want.
Lastly I will say your truck will need a rear suspension upgrade to combat sag and bounce. I got HD-RAS and it does wonders for me. You could look at RAS or Add-a-Leaf products. That in combination with a properly calibrated WDH gives a very comfortable tow experience.
Also if you look at the 2021 and newer F150s with the 2.7 payload package the GCWR is bumped up to 15000lbs. This is because this option gets you the half-floating 9.75 rear diff and axle as opposed to the half-floating super 8.8 rear diff and axle which yours and my truck has. This diff is the primary element responsible for the lower GCWR.
I will be changing my diff fluid shortly as I know this is a part of my vehicle I am subjecting to severe duty. The OEM stuff in there is rated 75w/85 viscosity. I am debating going with 75w/140 gear oil as that will truly protect my diff but at the expense of a small amount of mpg (I have no idea how much but I'm guessing 0.5). Or I might just go with fresh 75w/85 or 75w/90 full synthetic. When I got my truck and first starting towing with it I used a temperature gun on the diff housing after long hill ascents or long 65mph highway pulls and at worst it read 192F which I understand to not be too hot at all (220 and up is starting to get toasty).
IMO I wouldn't worry too much about pushing that GCWR limit as long as your trailer has good brake function (which a new GD trailer definitely will). And you can compensate with thicker gear oil or more frequent changes if you want.
Lastly I will say your truck will need a rear suspension upgrade to combat sag and bounce. I got HD-RAS and it does wonders for me. You could look at RAS or Add-a-Leaf products. That in combination with a properly calibrated WDH gives a very comfortable tow experience.
Trending Topics
tow way more then 3k as they’re rated twice that even with the most basic tow package. I’m not sure Ford only anticipates owners will only tow 3k. I think that’s just something you like to post.
You could wait on the RAS/leaf until you tow a few times without it (hopefully short easier tows to acclimate to your rig). Do what you can without it, then if still not happy with sag/bounce/tow-quality make the investment and you'll get to appreciate the difference. Also I know RAS goes on sale for labor day weekend and I believe it does for memorial day weekend as well (save $75 bucks I think).
Yes. There is also a HD version for a bit more money which I got but don't actually use all of it because this product has variable tension and mine is set closer to the low point. IOW, SD version should be fine.
You could wait on the RAS/leaf until you tow a few times without it (hopefully short easier tows to acclimate to your rig). Do what you can without it, then if still not happy with sag/bounce/tow-quality make the investment and you'll get to appreciate the difference. Also I know RAS goes on sale for labor day weekend and I believe it does for memorial day weekend as well (save $75 bucks I think).
You could wait on the RAS/leaf until you tow a few times without it (hopefully short easier tows to acclimate to your rig). Do what you can without it, then if still not happy with sag/bounce/tow-quality make the investment and you'll get to appreciate the difference. Also I know RAS goes on sale for labor day weekend and I believe it does for memorial day weekend as well (save $75 bucks I think).








