Hey Guys, first time posting here. First time towing our new TT the distance I’ll be towing it. Just want to get some feedback to make sure I’m not completely out of my mind… I am NOT an expert, which is why I’m asking.

I have a 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5 eco boostTruck

• gvwr- 7,000lb
• Rear gvwr 3800lb (not sure what the difference between the rear and front is, or maybe I should say what different effects it has)
• Combined weight should not exceed 1656lb, which I believe is my payload number.

Camper

Gulf Stream AmeriLite 268BH
Length - 29’6”
Weight - 5177lbs dry weight
Tongue weight I believe is 640 or somewhere close, have to double check.

Not sure if it will help, but I’ll attach a picture of the label under my hitch.

I have a weight distribution kit setup already, or sway bars… The human weight will roughly be 450lbs. Our luggage roughly 100lbs. I believe someone said the sway bars are 60lbs. I know that I will not have a lot of room to add stuff before I reach max payload. I get that. One of my questions is, for the extra stuff I do have, is it better to add it in the front of the TT instead of the back of the truck?

I’ve pulled heavier with this truck and have had zero issues without sway bars. I’ve been on the highway with this setup from the dealership and had no sway on a calm day. Hardly felt it and my engine break barely had to kick in.

Am I okay with this setup? And what recommendations do you have to keep it as safe as possible for my family?

Thanks in advance!

 

You'll probably be just fine towing it. Whether or not you'll be over payload on your truck will depend on several things:

1. The payload sticker on the B pillar is as the truck left the factory. If you've added anything to it, that number is now lower.
2. The 640 lb tongue weight figure is likely meaningless if that is from the TT manufacturer. Those figures generally don't include batteries or propane. Additionally, most TTs have storage toward the front, which increases the tongue weight. For reference, my Alpha Wolf 26DBH had a published tongue weight of something like 600 lbs. With battery, propane and ready to camp, it's actually 900 lbs. TT is 7,000 loaded and ready to go. This is about 1,000 lbs of stuff over and above the published dry weight.
3. If you haven't added much to the truck, assume your real usable payload is probably around 1,600 lbs. Subtract 550 for family and luggage and another 60 for WDH. You have about 1,000 lbs left over for tongue weight. As long as your tongue weight is under this, I'd say you're good to go.

I'd recommend heading to the CAT scales to weigh everything. This will help ensure you have your WDH dialed in and can help with any loading decisions on where to put things - most likely directly over or slightly forward of the trailer axles if possible. You want your tongue weight to be 12-13% of the actual weight of the TT.

 

My guess is that you will probably be close to 7000lbs and more than 700lbs of tongue weight based on your dry weights and the length of your trailer. As long as you stay under your trailer's GVWR (looks like that is 7660lbs) you want to pack stuff there, because only 10% of every lb gets transferred to the truck (as opposed to 100% of what you put IN the truck). My main concern isn't weight, but length... a trailer that long with a crew cab short bed truck that it outweighs is going to want to make the truck move when you get passed or are in strong crosswinds. Not a dealbreaker but you are going to want to make sure your trailer is properly level (or up to 1" nose down) and that your weight distributioon is sufficient and DIALED IN. You will probably be best served to visit a CAT scale a few times, it is a big help IMO to get a feel for how the truck tows and then attach that sensation to how you are carrying weight (not just if it's an appropriate amount of weight).

As an example I towed my trailer up the mountain with my trailer 1" low at the ball. Towed great, but I wanted to see if level worked out better. Turns out that wasn't the case; with trailer 1" down, my truck axles were almost 50/50 even front and back. Not sure if that's magic somehow but I think it was the key to how well the truck performed in my case. However my trailer is almost 6ft shorter than yours and 5600 loaded to travel, slightly easier to manage. The change in your front and rear fender heights before you hook up, with the trailer on the ball, and with the trailer weight distribution engaged are simple measurements that can get you very close to optimal before you visit a scale.

Bring the proper tools to make adjustments and go slow! I only go 65 because the truck and trailer feel safe and in control at that speed, I only speed up to pass. Nothing wrong with going slower if that's where you feel comfortable, it will also greatly improve your mileage. Good luck and have fun!

 

Your tongue weight will not be 640 lbs as that is the published brochure weight, which is based on a dry (empty) trailer. You need to figure around 13% of total trailer weight will be on the tongue. That trailer has a GVWR of 7660 lbs (5177 dry weight + 2483 cargo capacity). So, if loaded to the max, tongue weight would likely be close to 1000 lbs. You are unlikely to load it to its GVWR, but just realize that nobody tows an empty trailer, so that 640 is fiction.

Where you put your excess stuff depends on how much payload, room for tongue weight you have remaining. I suggest that you load up that trailer just how you will be taking it camping - including all people/pets/gear etc., fill up the tank and hit the CAT scale. This is the only way to really know where you stand. At the scales, take 3 weights:

1, Truck and trailer with bars DISENGAGED and tossed in the back of the truck.
2. Truck and trailer with bars ENGAGED.
3. Truck only.

Here is a link to a nice tool that you can input the scale data: Tow Planner

 

The above advice is good. Others have mentioned you'll likely add 1000-1200 lbs of stuff to the empty weight of the trailer unless your "THAT GUY" that brings everything including a spare kitchen sink along "just in case" LOL I like to run 14-15% tongue weight and no faster than 65 MPH. When you hear of guys having issues with towing seems it only occurs above 65mph.

Safe travels.

 

LOL I’m definitely not THAT guy 🤣 the only weight I have added to the camper so far are blankets and fishing poles plus all of that seemingly endless other crap you need when camping… sewage hose, water filter, surge protector, water pressure gauge, leveling blocks etc.

We really don’t need to bring anything except some clothes. I can just bring one propane tank and exchange it when we get there even to help with less weight. I believe I’ll be able to keep it under the max tongue weight quite easily.

I’m really grateful for the rest of the other responses too! Never would have known I could go to a CAT scale and do this, but after reading about it I have one right down the road. For sure doing that tomorrow.

Question for you guys regarding the integrated trailer brake controller…. What do you think I should set my gain setting at and how/when do I even use this feature?

 

Good question. I've been setting mine at 6.5 and its been doing fine. I tow on the Gulf Coast where its flat as a pancake and no mountains to contend with. Using an Expedition with the Ecoboost and max towing package. Also using 10 ply BFG KO2's 10 ply E rated to help with sway caused by the independent rear suspension. Using a 4 point Equalizer hitch. It tows OK at 60-62 mph with light winds but gets a little hairy with heavy wind gusts. Just wife and I so we keep the camper loaded lightly and under the 1769 lb payload on the FX4 Expedition. Our camper shows it can gross out at 8800 lbs but we load way under that. Hitch weight is the problem area and probably at 1100 lbs. Gain on the trailer brakes can be set using the tow/haul mode on the truck info screen. The higher the number the more gain for braking. In case of an emergency you can squeeze the levers and it will stop the trailer before the truck will.

 

Your manual provides the correct procedure for setting up your ITBC. Essentially you will adjust the gain until you lock up the brakes and then back it off a notch. You don't necessarily 'use this feature'. It works seamlessly with your truck's braking system and applies trailer braking proportional to how 'hard' you are applying the truck brakes. However, should your trailer get into a sway situation, the ITBC trigger may be applied manually in an effort to get the trailer back in line. Doing that is generally considered the first line of defense should sway begin. However, I believe the manual actually argues against it as it states it could interfere with the truck's integrated anti-sway system, which is a separate computer controlled component that kicks in when the truck senses sway getting out of hand. Some people actually disable this system when towing with a WDH.....but that is a whole 'nother can of worms .

Note that the truck's integrated anti-sway system is not meant to be a replacement for a hitch's anti-sway properties. The hitch works to prevent/mitigate sway before it begins, the truck's system works to stop it should it start.

In regards to the CAT scale, I highly recommend downloading the 'Weigh My Truck' app and setting it up prior to heading to the scales. This will allow you to take your weights, get the results emailed to you and pay, without having to go inside and wait in line for the 'weighmaster' - the 18 yr old clerk at Love's. Your first weight will be $12....the other two are considered 're-weighs' (check the box accordingly on the app) and cost only $3.50 each.

 

I’m stunned NOBODY asked the most basic question.
Do you have the factory Towing Package? Do you have the factory window sticker to check?
The class 3/4 receiver and 7 pin wiring package (53B ordering code) is standard on the Lariat and up luxury packages.
You do not have the Max Tow (53C) for that year, otherwise your hitch would list 12000#+ for capacity with a weight distribution hitch.
Your hitch is the same one used with the 53B & 53A (Towing Package on sticker, sometimes called Heavy Duty Towing package in the owner’s manual. The owners manual and model year Towing Guide have further limits on a given truck’s towing capacity depending on having the 53A or 53C options. If not, you are limited by the factory to 7000# based on engine.
I can’t quite make out your axle code on your factory build sticker. That alters your towing capacity IF you have the 53A/C options.
I THINK it’s an L3 meaning 3.31 gear ratio. 3.55 came with the Max Tow. Not great but unless you pay extra, 3.31 was the standard gear ratio with the 53A Heavy Duty towing package. I don’t have your year towing guide handy but, just for ballpark reference, in 2019 with your truck specs and 53A option, your towing capacity would be 10,700#.

 

Re; you want to pack stuff there, because only 10% of every lb gets transferred to the truck (as opposed to 100% of what you put IN the truck).

I don't believe that is correct. It depends where you place the weight in trailer. If you place 100 lbs exactly in the midpoint between the trailer tongue and trailer axle, then 50 lbs is transferred to the tongue.