I traded in my F150 yesterday for an F350. The 350 has a 2.5" receiver vs. the 150's 2". My plan is to take the necessary measurements and then order the appropriate 2.5" shank as it doesn't sound like a receiver reducing sleeve is very highly regarded.

I don't have large enough sockets or a powerful enough torque wrench to remove/install the new shank so am having the local hitch shop take care of it, and setting up the Equalizer for the new vehicle/trailer combo.

Here's my issue:

I need to move the trailer from the storage yard to the hitch shop. Total trip is about 8 miles - 45 mph tops roads. What would be the easiest, safest way to do this? I have two ideas and would like some input.

1. Buy the new shank and take just it and the hitch to the shop and have them install it on the head...of course it won't be optimized for the TV/TT. I would then go pick up the TT and return to the shop for final fitting.

2. Buy an insert to reduce the receiver to 2" and use the existing Equalizer setup to head to the shop.

Any better ideas? Is one of these methods preferred over the other?

Thanks in advance!

 

I would buy the insert, there may also be times you want to toe something else too. I had an insert on my chevy 2500, planned on getting a 2.5" shank, just never got around to it.

I do believe the 2.5" shank is better for long term, I didn't have any issues with the adapter except the pin holes flaring slightly and making it hard to remove after several thousand miles

 

My dad has been using a 2.5" to 2" insert for years. I've pulled his 9000lb camper with it and an equalizer hitch and my 6000 camper on a traditional hitch. No problems for us.

 

Thanks for the input!

If I go the insert route, would it be best to tow without the WDH bars on and engaged when I pull it to to the shop?

My reasoning is it’s better to do that than engage the bars on a tow vehicle it was not set up for using what is possibly the incorrect (rise and drop) shank.

The hitch is rated at 15k with or without weight distribution.

 

Go buy a 2.5" shank with a 2 5/16 ball on it. Check the height of the trailer tongue first so that you get the correct drop. You wont need the WDH for an 8 mile trip. As long as the trailer is level or nose down, you should be fine for an 8 mile trip of 45 MPH or under. If you towed the trailer with the F150, more than likely the F350 will barely move.

 

I tried to follow that basic route and here's where I am.

Took my measurements: 3" ball height; 20.5" Receiver Height; 23" Coupler Height.

Inputted the measurements into the shank size tool on the website and came up with the recommendations: "The 90-02-4125 Equal-i-zer Shank offers a 3" drop and an 7" rise. This shank is for use with a No Shank Equal-i-zer hitch weight distribution system. Measures 12" long and fits 2-1/2" trailer hitch receivers."

Problem is that under this recommendation was the disclaimer that this product may not fit my application. Called Equalizer and they advised me to round up the Receiver Height. I received the same warning rounding up.

Any suggestions?

 

I recently switched to a Ram 2500 and had the same concern as you. I’m using the 2 in. adapter and so far no problems what so ever. My first trip was a 100 miles away and everything performed well, on Monday I’m heading to Chincoteague VA . In my case the fit of the adapter is good not a lot of play but I do insert the shank all the way up to the support gusset. As of now I see no need to purchase a 2 1/2 in. shank.

 

I take it Ford's no longer includes the 2" Reducer with the 2.5" Class V Hitch? It used to be under the rear seat.

 

I respectfully offer your overthinking this. Get the reducer, might need it for a small boat trailer sometime in the future.

 

Correct....only get a reducer if you have the 3" receiver.