Do I need a new/different truck?
10-04-2017, 09:55 AM
#11
Your 2.7L EcoBoost has enough power and torque to PULL a 7,500-pound boat+trailer. But how did the GVW compare to the GVWR of your F-150?
Most boat trailers have only about 8% tongue weight, so about 600 pounds tongue weight for a 7,500 pound boat+trailer.
But TTs average 13% tongue weight, so about 910 pounds tongue weight for a 7k TT. Does your F-150 when wet and loaded for the road have enough unused payload capacity to handle that additional 310 pounds of hitch weight without exceeding the GVWR of the tow vehicle?
Most boat trailers have only about 8% tongue weight, so about 600 pounds tongue weight for a 7,500 pound boat+trailer.
But TTs average 13% tongue weight, so about 910 pounds tongue weight for a 7k TT. Does your F-150 when wet and loaded for the road have enough unused payload capacity to handle that additional 310 pounds of hitch weight without exceeding the GVWR of the tow vehicle?
I'm under all my weights. Boat is always empty when towed and usually just me in the truck with no cargo. It gets towed twice a year, once to the lake, and once to storage for the winter.
Yes I'm aware of that. I also have a travel trailer with 60 sqr ft flat frontage that tows like a sail. It's only 5000 lbs but I get better highway mileage towing my 7500 lb boat simply because of aerodynamics. Either way, both tow just fine with power to spare. The 5.0 the OP is talking about should be able to easily handle his trailer provided he's within his weight limits.
10-04-2017, 07:39 PM
#12
Or, you could use as auto delivery service.......save money and time.
10-06-2017, 12:29 PM
#13
Old enough to know better
Your truck should do okay.
Try to not leave so late you feel the need to drive super fast to make up time. And as a Mustang is not a tall car you do not need a tall inside height on the trailer. Many times people buy a trailer much higher than is needed.
A higher CG is bad for many obvious reasons, but the increased height in the front and sides will make it less aerodynamic both for going forward obviously, but as importantly in side winds. You are not going to be inside the trailer for long time periods, so crouching over slightly while strapping it down, and unstrapping it at the other end of the trip is no biggie.
Beautiful part of a car is its very easy to adjust the hitch weight by rolling the car ahead or back as required.
Once you find the sweet spot mark it.
Maybe lines marked on the floor in front and behind the tires, but also handy when driving it in is a mark on the side wall you can easily see. The mark could be anywhere you choose, say the side mirrors line up with the marks.
When you think it is tied down well enough, add more straps. That panic stop you may need to make is not going to end well if the car breaks loose. Backing the trailer tires into a depression if possible makes loading and unloading oh so much easier. It is truly amazing how much it helps if the trailer tires are in just a mere 6 inch depression in the ground.
This is not always practical to do but if you can its worth it.
A good quality soft and clean blanket to put over the drivers door when the window is down will keep you from scratching the paint and interior getting in and out, as most trailers are too narrow to open the door once the car is in it. So you are likely going to be climbing in and out of the window.
The front man door on the side of a trailer is the handiest thing you can get, and I would never have a car trailer without it. Stop occasionally and check to make sure the car is still secure.
A few practice stops in an empty parking lot to set the right power on your brake controller is a good idea.
Make sure they are braking hard, but not locking up. I see many who skip the checking of their trailer brakes power level. Its not great to have them locking up and sliding in a quick stop, or to be only braking at a fraction of their capability. In rain or low traction areas you made need to dial it down a bit.
Your truck has ABS, but its highly unlikely that your trailer will. Make sure that your trailer comes with a spare tire, and you have the appropriate size wheel wrench for the lug nuts as they are likely going to be different than your trucks. And never assume that your jack will work, so try it and if not get a jack that does work. If your not worried about the few extra dollars buy the correct size sockets, ratchet, along with an appropriate length of extension(s), and torque wrench. Tools and a hydraulic bottle jack are really not very expensive.
Happy holidays when you leave!
Try to not leave so late you feel the need to drive super fast to make up time. And as a Mustang is not a tall car you do not need a tall inside height on the trailer. Many times people buy a trailer much higher than is needed.
A higher CG is bad for many obvious reasons, but the increased height in the front and sides will make it less aerodynamic both for going forward obviously, but as importantly in side winds. You are not going to be inside the trailer for long time periods, so crouching over slightly while strapping it down, and unstrapping it at the other end of the trip is no biggie.
Beautiful part of a car is its very easy to adjust the hitch weight by rolling the car ahead or back as required.
Once you find the sweet spot mark it.
Maybe lines marked on the floor in front and behind the tires, but also handy when driving it in is a mark on the side wall you can easily see. The mark could be anywhere you choose, say the side mirrors line up with the marks.
When you think it is tied down well enough, add more straps. That panic stop you may need to make is not going to end well if the car breaks loose. Backing the trailer tires into a depression if possible makes loading and unloading oh so much easier. It is truly amazing how much it helps if the trailer tires are in just a mere 6 inch depression in the ground.
This is not always practical to do but if you can its worth it.
A good quality soft and clean blanket to put over the drivers door when the window is down will keep you from scratching the paint and interior getting in and out, as most trailers are too narrow to open the door once the car is in it. So you are likely going to be climbing in and out of the window.
The front man door on the side of a trailer is the handiest thing you can get, and I would never have a car trailer without it. Stop occasionally and check to make sure the car is still secure.
A few practice stops in an empty parking lot to set the right power on your brake controller is a good idea.
Make sure they are braking hard, but not locking up. I see many who skip the checking of their trailer brakes power level. Its not great to have them locking up and sliding in a quick stop, or to be only braking at a fraction of their capability. In rain or low traction areas you made need to dial it down a bit.
Your truck has ABS, but its highly unlikely that your trailer will. Make sure that your trailer comes with a spare tire, and you have the appropriate size wheel wrench for the lug nuts as they are likely going to be different than your trucks. And never assume that your jack will work, so try it and if not get a jack that does work. If your not worried about the few extra dollars buy the correct size sockets, ratchet, along with an appropriate length of extension(s), and torque wrench. Tools and a hydraulic bottle jack are really not very expensive.
Happy holidays when you leave!
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chimmike (10-06-2017)
10-12-2017, 01:43 AM
#15
Senior Member
Hi guys, Here is what I have: 2013 FX4, 5.0 SCAB, 20k miles. The wife and I are thinking about spending our winters down south(we live in Mpls.), and she would like me to buy an enclosed car trailer and tow her '15 mustang GT along so she has something to drive. My Question: Will my truck do this comfortably, or is it time start thinking about a new super duty?