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I finally went over the CAT scale with our F350 and travel trailer and was wondering if the experts could analyze the data to see if things need to be tweaked.
During my brief run with my F150, as well as with this F350, I never adjusted my WDH (Equalizer 4 point) myself. Instead, I left it to Camping World (not good, I know and short lived) and then 2 different hitch shops. I have since purchased the appropriate sized sockets, breaker bar, digital torque wrench etc. and am willing to give re-adjustment a try should it be necessary. I can take pics of the rig connected if needed, but it does sit level when connected and feels generally really good on the road.
However, I am surprised that I can 'feel' an approaching 18 wheeler most times with this setup...almost more so than with the F150. I definitely don't have any issue controlling the rig, but this sort of surprised me considering how solid this same trailer felt with the 1/2 ton. I'm wondering if this could be a WDH tweak.
I currently have six washers in play on the Equalizer and have attached a pic of the hitch assembly as it was setup by the last shop and is used today. I am using the same shank I had with the F150. The only difference on the F350 setup is that the entire hitch seems to sit lower to the ground when ready to go, presumably the shop just dropped it lower on the shank. I do notice that I do not have to raise the truck nearly as much to lift the bars into place as with the F150....it almost seems too easy.
Anyway, sorry for the verbosity, but wanted to provide all the necessary info.
**Disclaimer: I weighed the truck alone last week, same scale, same fuel load, same passengers, pets and most cargo. On today's weighs, which included the trailer, I did add 40 lbs to the truck bed which I manually reflected in the drive axle 'truck only' weights shown above.
Just from the numbers, your trailer w/o WDH takes about 560 lbsoff the front axle. Once the bars are engaged, it only returns 200 lbs. Based on that alone, I'd say your hitch bars are not tight enough when engaged. It should be returning more weight to the front axle, evenly distributing the weight of the hitch. In doing so, your truck will feel more planted on the road.
It also appears that your trailer weighs 9480 lbs and has a tongue weight of 1920 lbs. That is a 20% tongue weight.
Judging by the numbers, I can see why the setup isn't towing well. It seems that everything (wind) on either the front of the truck or the very rear of the trailer will be a sail causing the rear axle and hitch to pivot.
Adding more tension to the hitch and putting more weight on the front of the truck and the trailer axles will even things out and make for a much better towing experience. Instead of the rear axle carrying the lion's share of the weight, the truck and trailer will act in unison.
Just from the numbers, your trailer w/o WDH takes about 560 lbsoff the front axle. Once the bars are engaged, it only returns 200 lbs. Based on that alone, I'd say your hitch bars are not tight enough when engaged. It should be returning more weight to the front axle, evenly distributing the weight of the hitch. In doing so, your truck will feel more planted on the road.
It also appears that your trailer weighs 9480 lbs and has a tongue weight of 1920 lbs. That is a 20% tongue weight.
Judging by the numbers, I can see why the setup isn't towing well. It seems that everything (wind) on either the front of the truck or the very rear of the trailer will be a sail causing the rear axle and hitch to pivot.
Adding more tension to the hitch and putting more weight on the front of the truck and the trailer axles will even things out and make for a much better towing experience. Instead of the rear axle carrying the lion's share of the weight, the truck and trailer will act in unison.
I was really surprised by the figures you are showing. Are you certain of the math? I plugged the numbers into a website site setup for the exact data the CAT scale provides and it came up with a 1320 lb. tongue weight for 15.2% and a trailer weight of 8900 lbs. That completed page is here
Also, the rig doesn't tow bad by any means. When I mentioned the feel of an approaching semi, that was more an observation than anything - I was just sort of surprised by it with the larger truck. It doesn't lead to sway or anything like that.
My primary reason for posting is that after reading forums these past couple of years, I have a general mistrust of shops doing the hitch setup work. I have yet to see any of them even take a measurement to the wheel well before and after to check things, so was interested in giving it a go myself.
I was really surprised by the figures you are showing. Are you certain of the math? I plugged the numbers into a website site setup for the exact data the CAT scale provides and it came up with a 1320 lb. tongue weight for 15.2% and a trailer weight of 8900 lbs. That completed page is here
Also, the rig doesn't tow bad by any means. When I mentioned the feel of an approaching semi, that was more an observation than anything - I was just sort of surprised by it with the larger truck. It doesn't lead to sway or anything like that.
My primary reason for posting is that after reading forums these past couple of years, I have a general mistrust of shops doing the hitch setup work. I have yet to see any of them even take a measurement to the wheel well before and after to check things, so was interested in giving it a go myself.
Yes, reassessing my math, I was off. I stand corrected. Your link helped with the numbers plugged in.
Your feeling of an approaching semi shouldn't be that apparent. Using a Super Duty, there is plenty of mass to hold things steady. My similar set up is a truck that weighs about 8900 loaded towing a 7500 trailer (900 lbs tongue weight) and passing semis don't phase it a bit.
I still think that your WDH isn't tensioned enough though. It is common to return 50%-100% of the weight taken off the front axle back to it. In your case, 560 lbs was lifted off and 200 lbs returned....only 35%. I still would adjust it reweigh and reassess how it tows.
Another thing to keep in mind is a shop can only set up a hitch with the truck & trailer loaded at that moment. The moment you add occupants to the truck, gear in the bed and contents and water to the trailer., you've now changed how effective, or ineffective, the WDH will be.
Clarkbre...Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if the 200 lbs was enough. Changing things to transfer more back to the front may be what it needs to smooth things out. Good point about the load changes and adjusting too. I had just gotten the new truck and picked up the trailer from storage and drove it to the shop for adjustment. It was very lightly loaded at the time. I was surprised to see that none of the 3 shops I've been too, with my F150 or this truck were very exacting. They all seemed to just eyeball things and call it good. Perhaps that's normal, particularly at an actual hitch shop, where they do these things every day, but it still made me want to be a little more self-sufficient and learn how to do it myself. Thanks again for your input!
can you send a picture of the truck / trailer combo hooked up on level ground?
I'll get a pic up in the next day or two. I am doing a couple of odds and ends to it here at the house but the street is none too level. I'll take one when I head back to the storage yard with it.
Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if the 200 lbs was enough. Changing things to transfer more back to the front may be what it needs to smooth things out. Good point about the load changes and adjusting too. I had just gotten the new truck and picked up the trailer from storage and drove it to the shop for adjustment. It was very lightly loaded at the time. I was surprised to see that none of the 3 shops I've been too, with my F150 or this truck were very exacting. They all seemed to just eyeball things and call it good. Perhaps that's normal, particularly at an actual hitch shop, where they do these things every day, but it still made me want to be a little more self-sufficient and learn how to do it myself. Thanks again for your input!
Because they don't care if you aren't properly setup. Taking charge of your own safety is great!
So Truck 8600# with Travel trailer (TT), WDH not engaged.
7240# just truck.
That means 1360# tongue weight INCUDING the weight of the WDH. Subtract the WDH weight for final tongue weight.
I agree with the idea that you need to put more pressure on the WDH spring bars. 560# off the steer axle from the TT no WDH. With spring bars, 200# returned to Steer Axle with WDH engaged. Still have 360# lifted from the steer axle & put on the drive axle & trailer axle.
So with your front end lightened, it’s no wonder you are feeling the passing trucks.
Download your WDH manual and go through the setup procedure. You may only have to change one item, like the trunnion head height or add a washer. Ford recommends that your front wheel well heights with WDH return by 1/2 of the difference between no trailer and trailer without WDH. Personally, I like it even closer to the startIng value because the rear is still going to be lower & I’m minimizing slant. Nowhere in the procedure, but I measure truck front and rear wheel wells and trailer frame corners front and back. So I have to go to a level place to do this. With WDH, my TT is set within 1” of level.
I was lucky, I had a great tech initially setup my WDH exactly as the manual directs (I confirmed later) for my current TT with my 2008 Explorer. New truck in 2019. Height of receiver differences was within 1”. Reviewed the WDH setup, all was within tolerances. Had my TT axle moved from above to below the springs, 5.5” height gain. Merely had to take the trunnion assembly off of the “stinger”, flip the stinger, & reinstall the trunnion. Unfortunately, the hole spacing did not allow exact placement and the second time got the TT the most level.
09-27-2020, 08:45 PM
CAT Scale Data
