s1njin

Per TireRack:
A tire's "maximum inflation pressure" may be different than the assigned tire pressure used to rate the tire's "maximum load." For example, while a P-metric sized standard load tire's maximum load is rated at 35 psi, many P-metric sized standard load performance and touring tires are designed to contain up to 44 psi (and are branded on their sidewalls accordingly). This additional range of inflation pressure (in this case, between 36 and 44 psi) has been provided to accommodate any unique handling, high speed and/or rolling resistance requirements determined by the tire and vehicle manufacturers. These unique tire pressures will be identified on the vehicle placard or the vehicle's owner's manual.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...jsp?techid=196

schmenke

^

Not disputing that, and certainly don't want to drag this thread, as interesting as it is, into a discussion on thermodynamics, but a long time ago some dude from France demonstrated that for a given volume the pressure and temperature of a gas are directly proportional.

kmlacroix

Here is a link to some tire inflation tables.

https://www.toyotires.com/tires-101/...flation-tables

Alex Green

I've got the OEM Hankook Dynapro ATM's on my 2016 3.5 EcoBoost...they're a 6 ply tire. The tires are not even close to being a safe tire for towing anywhere near the rating of the rig. I have a 36 foot bumper pull RV that runs about 9K lbs loaded and these tires sponge and roll like you would NOT believe! Don't go thinking your ol' buddies at ford put quality tires on, these are $150/tire anywhere you look...not quality. (I really noticed the rolling of the sidewalls when I added an antisway to the system).

Oh and they've gone bald in 30K miles with rotations regularly haha, 50k puu-shaw.

To the OP, get 10-ply rated tires, one size larger if you are towing heavy for the truck, ignore the whiny baby crap about ride quality because they don't know what they're talking about. The tire diameter will more than make up for it. The BFG KO2's are an excellent choice, super solid sidewalls. I put 40K on my 7.3 with these and they had 40 or 50% tread life when I traded it in, that rig weighed 7,700 lbs with an empty tank and just me in the driver's seat...

BlackBoost

You guys need to stop suggesting inflating to the maximum PSI stated on the tire for load. That's not how it works. If you have stock or close to stock tires, then run what's in the door jamb, towing or not.
I have 20's, the door sticker says 35PSI, and that's what I run. When driving, they can heat up to 37 PSI, but when I'm towing, this creates more heat, and it goes up to 40-41 PSI just from driving. And this is still with 35PSI COLD pressure in the tires. Handling is great, and my tires are all wearing perfectly even. I'm at 94k and my Hankook Dynapro ATM's that came with the truck are very close to needing to be replaced.

If you're running another size/type of tire, you can look up charts and graphs and whatever on the internet, and try to figure out your truck/axle weights etc... But it's much easier to just inflate to what looks good, and run a chalk line across the tire. That will tell you if the tires are properly inflated or not. As mentioned earlier, some of the tires available are really overkill for a half-ton and unnecessary, just extra weight. Some tires people put on make just as much sense as putting some SuperDuty Dually's on the rear axle of an F-150... They'll never even see half of their rating.

No need to do the chalk test while towing either, and no need to increase pressure when towing unless it really feels unsafe, and if that's the case, then you have other problems that need to be addressed, IE; you shouldn't use those tires (oversized, wrong rating), you're towing too close to the limit of your truck's capabilities, you need a WDH or swaybar etc... Towing with the proper pressure when unloaded will generate a bit more heat which will be enough to increase the PSI to the point of being in the right zone. Don't worry, you're not overheating your tires, they get hotter just sitting in the sun on a hot day...

All overinflating does is wear out your tires unevenly and reduce your traction, and it's just a Band-Aid solution for towing issues.

gingrbredman

I understand the BFGs are a great tire, but why would this be a great tire, just in relation to towing? Just from my research, there are a lot of great tires out there that have the capacity needed for towing, and maybe a more practical for everyday use. The BFGs are over 50 lbs per tire, have a super aggressive tread, and probably are not a practical every day tire. These are true LT tires and have a weight rating of somewhere around 6,000 lbs which is way more than any F150 could handle. If you need this tire for off roading, or just want a "cool" looking tire, I can see this as a choice. I think a lot of people run these for a lot of reasons, just never heard these recommended as a "towing" tire.

I've been looking for a new set of tires for my 2018 F150; my trucks first responsibility is a tow vehicle for our family camper. It's second responsibility is a family mover and home improvement assistant, so my perspective on a set of tires may be different than some, just trying to understand a lot of opinions on tires. As some have said, there is no "perfect" tire for towing, but since towing is what my truck does, I need to take that into consideration when picking the right tire.

RichAP

Let's be fair. Unless you have an HDPP, you are really pushing the limits of what a non-HDPP F150 can tow with a trailer like yours, both in loaded weight and length.
What's the hitch weight on your trailer?

jcb206

8100hd

RichAP

So the thicker frame, bigger rear, and stronger springs of an HDPP truck don't contribute anything specifically over a Max Tow truck to improve towing handling and stability?

Wouldn't the additional weight and the fact you have a minimum 6'7 bed length on HDPP be a towing improvement over a Max Tow truck with a short bed?