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Another can I tow it (guessing too much)

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Old 07-07-2017, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
You should be fine with that. If the box is 32' then you could have sway issues on a windy day, but sounds like you have a good setup with what you posted.

Thing to keep in mind for those looking for a trailer and have an F150. The length of the box can be too big even if the GVWR falls within specs. The distance from the trailer axles to the rear bumper and from the axles to the ball can determine if it will be prone to sway or not. The longer it is behind the axles, the more likely it will push the F150 around, regardless of how good the WDH is. The longer the trailer is, the more forward mass is needed to counter the effects. Also the longer the trailer is, the higher it will be off the ground to prevent the tail from impacting on a rough road, which raises the CG as well.

My trailer sits pretty low and is designed to be towed by a 1/2 ton pickup, while a lot of the larger trailers, especially the slider ones are not, they can be towed by 1/2 ton trucks provided the payload is there, but due to their length, they are more stable behind a 3/4 ton or higher truck. While the F150 can tow them with ease, the handling may not be as good as it will be with a heavier truck.

Just things to keep in mind. After all, the whole idea is for taking a vacation, and it aint no vacation if you are stressed out pulling it.

Good advice given in this post. The SD line of trucks is designed for job like these.
Old 07-08-2017, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by VigII
Thanks guys. I find during these discussions weight capacities are well defined: GVWR, GAWR, GCWR, etc. However when it comes to trailer length, it's not so clear if the poster is talking total length (ball to bumper) or box length (how the dealers market them).

Eg. a 26'7" travel trailer might be 32' 4" total length. This is something I'm considering and the trailer's GVWR is <=75% of my truck's rated tow capacity. Is it "too long" by typical guidelines for my 145" wheelbase? I'm use to towing a compact LP 6x10 dump trailer between 8-9,500 lbs, not nearly the same kind of animal as a travel trailer with a higher CG and longer sectional density.
Usually trailer sizes are overall length rather than the length of the box. But don't guess, take a tape measure with you.

Do realize as the trailer gets longer, finding a campsite that can handle it gets harder. This is particularly true with state and national parks. Their campgrounds were often designed decades ago when campers were small. And realize a 20 foot truck pulling a 35 foot trailer is 55 feet long. Sure, once you are in the camp site, you will disconnect the tow vehicle.


Dry weights on trailers are meaningless. Have the RV dealer run the trailer across a truck scale for you. Make sure it is in ready to use condition (propane tanks and batteries installed). Typically, dry weights mean a trailer with NO options, no water in tanks, no propane, sometimes even dry batteries. It also can mean the base model from the manufacturer (maybe your trailer is a step up or two?) In the case of my trailer, the dry weight does not include the awning and the air conditioner. its an exercise in misdirection. "Our trailer only weighs 6,000 pounds!" Offer them a wager. I'll give you $10 a pound for every pound you are under the dry weight and you give me $10 a pound for every pound your trailer is OVER the dry weight! One of the advantages of pulling a camping trailer is having your stuff preloaded in the trailer, ready to launch. So even if the dry weight is close, its not going to be the weight of your trailer when you are towing. GVWR is closer to reality. Having stuff in the refrigerator, some water in the fresh tank, your clothes, camping stuff, etc., is all part of the convenience of traveling with a trailer.

Your truck probably isn't going to be empty either. Like a bed cap? That comes out of your payload. Spray in bed liner? Ditto. Optional side steps? Yep, deduct them from your payload. Any dealer installed options? All come out of payload. Payload rating is when your truck left the factory, not when the truck leaves the dealership, or how the truck sits in your driveway. Dog, passenger(s), tools, etc., all come out of payload.

A pet peeve for me is Ford gives trucks high tow ratings and then has payload ratings that almost guarantee you can't use the entire tow rating. The higher end your truck, the worse it gets! They don't adjust tow rating for lower payload. Owners have to do it.

Last edited by thrifty biil; 07-08-2017 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 07-10-2017, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by thrifty biil
A pet peeve for me is Ford gives trucks high tow ratings and then has payload ratings that almost guarantee you can't use the entire tow rating. The higher end your truck, the worse it gets! They don't adjust tow rating for lower payload. Owners have to do it.
It's not just Ford.

My Ford pet peeve is that MAX TOW doesn't include the HDPP, especially for a SCREW.

My pet peeve for all of them is that tow ratings for a crew cab assume only a driver. People usually buy a crew cab because the will have more than 1 passenger.
Old 07-10-2017, 10:33 PM
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My pet peeve is that Payload is not advertised on the stickers, and dealers are too dumb to know what that even is.
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