[F2C]MaDMaXX

I forgot to add that i use the anderson blocks for my stabilising jacks, i have one pack of the little guys (which are expensive IMO) and 3 of the big red blocks (hitch jack and whichever of the front/rear jacks are furthest from the ground at any given camp site)
The less extended your jacks and hitch jack are, the more stable feeling it will be - granted i have a much larger unit that is going to be more affected, but the same principle applies.

I've only (so far) had to do this once, but using the levelmate, i moved around the camp area i was at, to find the most level place i could, and knowing the 'limit' of how far my levelling ramps could correct, meant i could just watch my phone to see when the camper was within correction range.

Personally, I would drop the trans fluid, and if you're doing it yourself and have the time, let it drain over night to get more fluid out (can make over a quarts difference) change the filter as you said, and then run it for say, 1 week before changing it another two times (at least a week between changes) but you can keep the same filter.

larryo108

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again for the input. I like the way you do it and thought about using the levelmate like you described. I was just so tired by the time we got home that day.

I watched Makuloco's video on the 2018 transmission and **** it scared me. I am not sure I want to even try that, but maybe. My biggest issue is not have a big flat space to do all of the work. We will see.

WVMoose

iTrader: (2)

me too, lol.

i think im gonna do the fluid exchange 3 times in 3 months and see how it goes.

KennyCJR

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, a pan drop is more than I want to do. I paid the dealer to do mine. They quoted $155 for drain/fill with fluid change. They ended up doing a flush by mistake and wanted to charge me for all of the extra required fluid…something $280 more in fluid. I was like nope and stuck to my guns. The service manager finally waived it and charged me the quoted price. I honestly got really lucky as the person who quoted me over the phone entered the quotes she gave in an itemized list, so they could clearly see what I was quoted per requested service.

WVMoose

iTrader: (2)

I’m not a tire expert and I know you’ve mentioned it a few times.

i noticed Falken WP AT4 285/75/17 (34x11.5) come in either C or E load range. The C are max 50psi and the E are 80. The C are 6ply and the E are 10 ply….but they both weight the exact same.

would the C ride better? My Toyos are E and ride fine, they actually seem a little squishy for 10 ply..I’d be curious about the C

larryo108

iTrader: (1)

In my experience the C will ride better. I had E-rated tires on my 2013 when I didn't know any better. They were BFG KO2s and were maybe a 33" tire. Truck rode like a tank.

The C-rated BFGs I had rode much better. Keep in mind it was a different truck, different suspension, and different size. I will still not go E-rated unless I absolutely have to.

As for the weight, I don't really get it either. C-rated are 6-ply and E-rated are 10-ply as you said. I would have thought those extra 4 plys would account for more than just a couple of pounds. It is the same for the BFG KO2s though. The C-rated is about 63 pounds and the E-rated were like 65. I just don't get it.

larryo108

iTrader: (1)

This is my current workstation.


I got to this point last night.


I wussed out and just did the driver side valve cover. Not without some casualties though. One of the EGR heater bolts broke its captive nut loose, but I’m not too worried about it. It will bug my OCD, but the heater is held in with three other bolts.


I also forgot that I had replaced the dip stick last night. When the spark plug broke free this morning it snapped the dipstick. Dammit.


I am also replacing the coil boots. It’s never been done. These are quite different from what I have now, but it is all going together nice and tight.

larryo108

iTrader: (1)

Truck is put back together. Heading out to change the oil and bleed the coolant now. New plugs gapped at .028 with new coil boots in.


I think I may have found the source of my misfiring. Or at least I hope so. I had a random misfire code along with cylinder 2 and 4 codes. Definitely understand the 2 and 4 codes now. Need to lower my plug change interval moving forward. How often do all of you change plugs.

WVMoose

iTrader: (2)

What all did you do?

valve covers, plugs, boots, coolant drain?

larryo108

iTrader: (1)

Just the driver valve cover. Plugs, boots, new thermostat, and new yellow coolant. Dropping it off at the mechanic this afternoon for a transmission drain and fill with a new filter, rear end gear oil change, and figure out why it’s leaking from the front of the pumpkin again.