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Rebuilding a 2018 3.5l Eco boost XLT with 36k I picked up from auction. I have never done a build thread but thought it would be interesting. Will see if I remember to document along the way.
Done so far
Parts gathering
Fender
Bumper skin
Power steering rack
upper radiator core support
seat belt buckle tensioner
Still to source
Seat belt retractor
Radio
Hood
other odds and ends
Work to do
Straighten bumper support arm
front end alignment
Put everything back together
Estimate to get it back on the road is 2-3k will see how close I get to a sub 21k truck. If interested will post prices as I go along.
Moving this over from the introductions thread got sidetracked with a cold so no real updates, decided to replace the front lower frame rail (bumper support) since that is a Ford available part instead of just pulling it back over to avoid metal fatigue. Sourced a new bumper and fender from local junk yards. Should make some progress this week since weather will be nice.
I bought it to build for my parents. They are downsizing from a 2001 7.3l F350 dually.
I am really not sure why they didn't repair this one. It amazes me how insurance adjusters work sometimes. I am assuming the steering box dealership to install + radiator core support + intercooler bracket added up as those are all pricy parts if replacing with factory original or CAPA parts plus the labor even though they are relatively simple fixes.
Weird part is you will see utterly destroyed vehicles with multiple airbags and half the cab missing with a clear title, compared to this which will come out with a salvage title after bolting some parts on ???? Running the numbers on it this weekend, if I didn't have to replace the radio, I will be just over 21k including all parts, taxes, and transportation for the vehicle. Estimates are items i haven't got yet and aren't included in the total. With radio will be at about 22k for a XLT Fx4 with 36k miles.
Part name Cost Truck $18,873.50 Fender $250.00 Bumper $250.00 Steering rack $650.00 Hood 200-250 est Hood support $38.70 Frame rail $175.75 radiator core support $350.00 frame bracket $59.63 Hazard switch $35.32 clock spring $50.27 Fender bracket 20-40 bumper support 50 Radio
Hadn't posted in a while till today but catching everything back up.
Replaced the seat belt retractor. didn't need to mess with the buckle on the drivers side as code cleared.
Replaced the radiator core support and found something the adjusters missed. The intercooler locating/support tab on the drivers side was sheared off. Little epoxy and good as new but something to look for if rebuilding.
Sourced a replacement 8" radio for 200 and found that the POS (Previous Owner SOB) had a monster sound system. unfortunately, they weren't very good at wiring. Have to redo all the wiring to the speakers.
Truck is now back together and took me probably 20 hours total so far and I am slow.
Last items to do are track down some trouble codes for abs and a warning on hill start and traction control not working. I hope the ABS might recalibrate upon driving and the Hill start is tied to the radio.
Passenger side mirror and air temperature sensor are also throwing a CEL. hope I can repair instead of replace.
Photos of front with radiator upper core support removed
Radiator support locator bracket that was sheared off
latest's cost to rebuild the truck. If it was for me, I could have kept it under 20k but since I am building for my parents, I am doing everything to make it back to 100% Had to order a new OEM hood as they wanted it done and no time to wait to find one second hand.
Part name Cost
Truck $18,873.50
Fender $250.00
Bumper $250.00
Steering rack $650.00
Hood $750.00
Hood support $38.70
Frame rail $395.00
radiator core support $350.00
frame bracket $59.63
Hazard switch $35.32
clock spring $50.27
fender bracket $20.00
bumper support $50.00
Radio $200.00
Headlight $174.00
Fog light $44.00
trim support $23.00
junk yard from a 2019 with exact same number of miles. I didn't have to program it which I was not expecting. just bolted on and it started working with no codes. Be careful to make sure your steering wheel doesn't turn when taking off and back on otherwise you are looking at replacing your clock spring. More than 3 turns in either direction and it is most likely busted.
This is the first steering rack I have done so someone with may more experience feel free to chime in if I have to reprogram it regardless.
Yah I knew about the clock spring. There is also a procedure in forscan. Initialize ivd which I have done. That's how you center the steering wheel. Interesting thank you and good luck
Hood should be here on Saturday. I forgot to take a picture of the bumper frame rail support, but part number FL3Z-5D058-B Front Rail was pretty easy to install, I don't have a jig, but used the fender, bumper, intercooler, and frame attachment to line everything up. Good thing mass production truck tolerances on that part are so big with lots of adjustment built in.
Pictures of new to me bumper, fender and headlight installed. I am happy with the body lines. I did find out that I think the PO had an existing code for driver side abs speed sensor. Looks like they hit a rock or something I don't think it was due to the crash. Once that is replaced the hill assist parking brake and other warning light on the dash should go away. I am going to have to take the door pillar back off to fix an aftermarket stereo install fail so will try and remeber to take pics of seatbelt install.
Fun fact every one of those cars in the picture has a rebuilt title. Some people can't buy new cars, I can't buy uncrashed cars
I've thought about fixing a wrecked car before. My great grandfather actually used to do that with all their cars. Just hasn't made sense when I looked at it with the cash I had on hand at those times. Looks like you got a good one that really doesn't need all that much done.