papa tiger

If it just didn't smell so bad ! ;>\

TylerB

After seeing your results with just one vacuum source I'm convinced.

I DO NOT want to drill my inlet pipe at all. I will likely sell this truck in a few years and I would like to bring it back to stock if the need shall arise.

I have 44k miles on my truck now and it's bone stock. It's been into the dealer now 3 times for the FMIC issue and it seems that it might be doing it again. I have a cold hesitation under light throttle.

Thanks for sharing.

Joe@UPR

We are working a new connector that will have the fitting pre-installed from UPR so the 2nd source will be a plug n play with the factory rubber end removed and using the supplied UPR hose at the Turbo inlet to the passenger inlet / intake pipe.

This has been in the works for a bit and we finally have a supplier that will make it happen. Were a few weeks out on this new upgrade so don't drill if you have any reservations about it. I think the replacement OEM pipe is $120+.

Just wanted to give you a heads up on the eco stuff.

phantomblackgto

You still need to drill the airbox for the clean side, but IMO, you don't need to drill the passenger side for the additional vacuum to achieve adequate evacuation under boost. Sure, it could only help, but I just don't think it's necessary.

TylerB

True. I would do what you did and order a new lid from Tasca. Should be ordering this soon with the CSS.

Kevin Wong

I don't see the reason why you need to drill a hole in the air box. If you trace the factory air hose from the air box to the factory barb fitting leading to the driver side turbo, its the exact same air hose. Why not just put a T and run it to the driver side PCV cover. That will provide fresh air. You would need a check valve tho to prevent back flow to the can. Only reason why I can see using a oil cap breather is to prevent driver side blow by from getting into the turbo and leading back into the intake manifold. Am i missing something here?

vozaday

The reason why is that the closer the line is to the turbo, the more vacuum will be pulled when the turbo spools up. At the air box there should be next to none.

The CCS is to prevent oil residue from getting into the air box. I tried it without one and got oil carry over.

raceredf150

I use to run my clean side to the oem air box and was getting tones of oil all over the sensor. I later wanted a s&b intake but did not want to drill into that for re sale purposes. So i did just T into the vacuum line from the turbo pipe that goes to the can and havent had any problems yet. No check valve either. Should i be switching this? Because before i was getting too much oil on my sensor and dont want the same to happen

QwkTrip

The effectiveness of the catch can and having dual check valves is by far the most important factor. 1 or 2 vacuum lines, both are sufficient for the health of the engine. As long as the catch can collects the nasties then the system works.

The goal isn't to see how much oil you can pull out of the crankcase. In fact, you would rather the oil stay in the crankcase. The goal is to intercept and collect whatever oil does come from crankcase so it doesn't get in the intake air stream. I think both Rx and UPR accomplish the goal of capturing the oil because they both have good catch cans. Only reason people see more fluid with Rx is because that system pulls more vapors by volume out of the crankcase. In other words, Rx better have more fluid in the can if it is separating as good as UPR!

I put UPR on my truck and the whole job was a few minutes. No hacking, no buying other parts, no missing parts, everything fit.... NO HASSLE!

phantomblackgto

I'm still running this set up with no issues. Running the CSS to the airbox I get just a very slight amount of oil residue into the airbox, but it's barely noticeable and in no way would effect the sensor. T-ing the fresh air source into the vacuum line on the driver side barb is counterproductive to what you are trying to accomplish. You don't want any vacuum on the fresh air source. You want it to draw air in. And, you don't want to draw any oil vapor into the turbo inlet.