phantomblackgto

Well, I finally decided on an install of my Rx dual valve catch can on my 2013 Ecoboost. I decided I would deviate a little from the prescribed install procedures, primarily tying to avoid drilling my turbo inlet pipe or stock air filter box. Please note, this method is not emissions compliant. I wil let you know how it seems to work out once I put some miles on it.

For the dirty side, I installed the Rx dual valve catch can in the prescribed mounting location, out in front of the radiator.



Trying to keep everything fairly clean for the install, I ordered additional PCV quick connectors. I wanted to keep my original PCV hoses and connectors in tact in case I want to convert back to stock. It was a real biatch to get the new 1/2" tubing on the quick connects. I remember reading in another thread where someone had the same issue and ended up with seeping oil issues. I could not get them on all the way trying everything I could think of, so I hopefully sealed them up with some black RTV. Time will tell if this worked, but it seems to be pretty sealed up. The only other thing I can think of would be to go to a 5/8" tubing for the quick connects and then a 5/8" to 1/2" reducer (all of the tubing that comes with the lastest Rx dual valve version is 1/2").





Next, I routed the dirty side valve cover quick connect to the center port on the Rx dual valve catch can, and the IM quick connect to one of the exit ports on the catch can just like the instructions call for. For the IM connection, the 1/2" tubing coming off the catch can connector includes a one way check valve installed within the tubing. Therefore, I had to cut a small section of 1/2" tubing to run from the check valve connection to the quick connect.



So far, it is a typical install. Next, in order to keep from drilling my passenger side turbo inlet, I decided to just draw vacuum off the driver's side turbo inlet where the factory barb is located. This required looping a long section of 1/2" tubing around the back of the engine coming from the other exit port of the catch can. Once again, like the IM connection, there is a one way check valve installed in the tubing coming from the catch can connection. Therefore, I cut a piece of the 1/2" tubing to run from the check valve connection to loop behind the engine and to the driver side turbo inlet factory barb quick connect. Hopefully, while not providing as much vacuum as would be gained by accessing both turbo inlet pipes, it will still provide enough vacuum to evacuate under boost when IM vacuum isn't sufficient, and doesn't require drilling the passenger side turbo inlet pipe. I was noticing a good amount of oil residue on the driver side turbo inlet pipe from blow back through the clean side.

As far as providing fresh air, I merely capped the driver side valve cover clean air PCV inlet and installed a breather oil filler cap to provide filtered fresh air. I'm going to try this for awhile and see how it works. This allowed me to not have to drill into the stock air filter box to provide filtered fresh air which would have been required by either connecting directly to the valve cover PCV fresh air inlet or by installing the clean side separator. I do have a clean side separator that I may eventually install. Here is a pic of the clean side.



Please note this is an install for the Ecoboost. This would not work for the 5.0. All comments/suggestions/concerns welcome.

vozaday

I had thought about the same thing. But I drilled in anyways. Not sure if pulling off 1 turbo with external filter would pull the same vacuum as two turbos pulling after the filter. I would think the way you did it should be as effective. Interesting.

millwrat

Am new (<1 month) to ecoboosts, but also Intrigued with the catch can concept.

Since the 2015 F150 will host the same 3.5L engine, it will be interesting to see if some sort of catch can is incorporated. Ford should be seeing enough field data on the EB to see if it is warranted.

sistahazel

Is the breather oil filler cap one from RX or somewhere else?

phantomblackgto

Yea, it's the $39 Rx one. Seems well made and twisted on perfectly.

timtoolman

I had was wondering instead of buying the perf. breather , would using a "T" from the standard RX cap to the Line snaked around to the drivers side turbo?, I had the turbo hoses drilled from before and dealer didn't like them (They actually blamed the catch can for the blown engine and that's funny), have new turbo turbo tubes installed and Id rather not drill the new ones,Was wondering your modified install results was a good as RX original instructions???? But id think some gunk removal is better than none, The original l install had really worked very well especially in the winter . I too like your modded install

phantomblackgto

Not exactly sure I understand what you are asking. Are you saying T into the vacuum line running from the driver side turbo inlet barb to the clean side to provide fresh air? If so, I'd say no since I want that line to provide vacuum, the opposite flow for providing fresh air. I don't know how much vacuum I'm drawing off just one side. I am going to drain it at 500 miles to see what I'm catching. It's only been about 250 so far. Unfortunately, I really don't have any way to compare to the standard Rx install to see how this set up compares.

To me, there's only three options to get fresh air into the clean side. Don't cap off the clean side and run it straight to the filtered side of the air box (but I think you run the risk of getting oil into your air box based on the amount of oil residue I had from blow back through the clean side with the stock setup), cap off the clean side and install the clean side separator tapping into the filtered side of the air box (this would be emissions compliant since everything would be sealed), or do what I did and just use the breather oil filler cap (the only way to get filtered fresh air without tapping into the airbox).

I'm anxious to see this new setup UPR has promised for the Ecoboost to provide vacuum and fresh air without drilling anything, but I haven't seen any of their new install videos they have promised yet.

aliass24

The new upr clean side separartor uses a tee in the line going from the drivers side turbo inlet to the catch can. So yes there is no drilling.

Joe@UPR

Just wanted to give you a bit of info on the install and not use a breather on the system as it is very important to have a closed loop system. The main reason UPR decided not to drill the passenger side pipe was because Ford has been and will be voiding warranties for any holes or drilling in the factory intake and turbo pipes.

Most importantly is we had a Ford mechanic see a change in the characteristics of the vehicles running and idling overall and went to our closed loop system. I'm glad you did not drill anything so everything is totally reversible.

But it would be wise to install a clean side separator and get the hoses needed to accommodate the install. You will soon see this is the way to fly and I'm glad you've been following our work.

If you need any help feel free to PM me.

phantomblackgto

Technically, that line is going from the catch can to the driver side turbo inlet (flow wise and should have a one way check valve to restrict any possible back flow into the catch can). I'm still not sure how that would work to provide fresh air when that hose needs to be providing vacuum (pulling air out of the catch can into the driver side turbo inlet which is the opposite flow required for providing fresh air back into the system). I want as much vacuum as I can get through that line since I'm not tapping both inlets for vacuum. I guess I need to try and find their latest install video to see exactly how they have it set up.