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Definitive Full Race Motorsports Eco-Boost Thread

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Old 08-21-2013, 08:04 AM
  #231  
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wahoo, my FR intercooler has shipped! Saturday it is said to arrive, Saturday it is said to be installed.
Old 08-21-2013, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Reflections Detail
Cant you go with the NON res set up and if you want the resonator later you can just add it?

Cheers,
GREG
Yes.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:32 PM
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Friday afternoon 'carpal tunnel' ecoboost update:


-First, THANK YOU to everyone who has posted up reviews on our exhaust system or intercooler. We take pride in everything that leaves our facility, and it means a lot to see the photos and read your reviews. I realize our exhaust and intercooler are not for everyone (plus the box sizes are large so shipping isnt cheap) but the parts are arriving undamaged and customers are installing them properly the first time with no headaches and telling us they're happy.. that is our #1 goal

-FMIC with 2013+ F150 e-bov compatibility: our mounting flanges for the electronic bov are at the machine shop getting produced now. Ford uses a proprietary 'indexing thread pitch' to align and seal the Ebov. These will be ready for ordering with detailed photos and instructions posted online around the 2nd-3rd week of September (my guess is sept 16). Thanks for your patience, it took some time to get it just right.

-freakoboost single turbo kit: in 110F+ ambient we’re at ~620wtq (4th gear) but this is the maximum we can get with the stock fuel system.

-matched ecoboost GDI injector sets are happening: The reason I stress ‘matched’ is because all modern fuel injectors are machine wound, not hand wound. This means they vary and no 2 are the same. Depending how the wrap lands, it will conduct electricity and open/close at slightly different rates (we saw surprising variation in our own truck’s injectors ). GDI injectors are no different and are based upon a machine wound wrapping of copper wires. However, GDI injectors are different from traditional port fuel injectors in that they open with a first response of 60V then get all their work done between 1-5ms. When you add more pulsewidth beyond 5ms, the injectors stop increasing in flow (whereas a normal port fuel injector keeps on flowing) therefore a multiple-injection-event fueling strategy is employed by the computer. max operating pressure on these injectors is capped at 2150psi, we can’t get around that hard limit with the technology currently available.. however bench testing was successful and shows we have ~20% more fuel capacity on tap. Lots more to come in this area. These injectors are custom made bosch units and use uprated internals but retain the identical electrical characteristics, spray patterns, and the seating/sealing surfaces of the OEM units to keep tuning simple.


Note: if anybody happens to gain access to a stuck stuck or bad GDI injector I would like to take a look at it. test the injector coil, measure inductance (L)/capicatance (C)/resistance (R) then compare to known good injectors injectors… possibly get some insight


Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
I have the resonated version, tow 9500 lbs and it isn't a problem.
Originally Posted by captainnemojr
I also have resonated, and there is no drone
both of you guys are still using stock cats and stock downpipes, right?

Originally Posted by steve150
My main concern is cab drone at towing RPM's.
When our resonated exhaust is used with the stock cat/downpipes – it does not drone or create excessive loudness under load. I can totally understand your concern but that is exactly what we designed our exhaust not to do



Originally Posted by Reflections Detail
Cant you go with the NON res set up and if you want the resonator later you can just add it?
No problem


Originally Posted by EcoboostDave
My butt dyno says I gained some better throttle response. Plus it is the best sounding catback avalible for the Eco. Oh and also the best looking to. I think my exhaust was worth every penny, I am very very pleased with it. I havent turned on my radio much since I got it.

Ha, that just made my week !!

Originally Posted by EcoboostDave
It's not loud at all without the resonator. On the highway you can't really hear it at all. Everyone that has heard mine say wow, it sounds really good for a v6.
I'm glad the resonator was on back order and I decided to try the it without it because I think it would have been to quiet like stock with it.

Hey dave – part of the reason your truck’s exhaust is so quiet without resonator is because youre on stock downpipes and stock cats. keep in mind that if you go to an aftermarket Y-pipe then you may want to consider adding a resonator
Old 08-23-2013, 02:32 PM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by EcoboostDave
when the heck is the intercoolers going to be available for the 13s!? Please give a date estimate.

The engineering and CAD design work is completed just getting the eBOV mounts made now. This is for the 2013-2014 Ebov. it looks simple but is actually a complex piece to mfg, it’s been throwing our CNC shop for a loop because the thread indexes and seals the Ebov chamber plus the thread pitch is proprietary so try as we might could not make it on the lathe. I will post photos online as soon as its ready



Originally Posted by geno51
I have had the cooler the longest in arizona temps up to 115* and not once had any issues at all .. most diesel trucks have massive intercoolers that completely cover their radiator. With a blower blowing on it when we were at the dyno I pup my hand behind it and air passed through completely fine. Also when we were at the dyno it was a room with the door open making 20 pulls it was 105* outside my truck never passed 190* I have also towed my 280z up a 6% grade for 11 miles in 105* @ 75mph in 6th gear boosting the whole way, and it did not budge past normal temps
Originally Posted by Eco-BEAST 28
x2!! Here in Vegas it has been hovering around 120 during the day. Even with temps that high when we go out to the lake bed to off road, my temps all stay within a normal range. Thats while im mashing on the gas for a few hours straight, in direct sun, and constantly abusing the engine.



Originally Posted by Eco-BEAST 28
I was wondering if you have received enough interest in making down pipes? While there are several options on the market i cant seem to remember if we talked about FR making a set in particular
yes – FR downpipes are definitely happening. Nov/Dec i think is a reasonable timeframe



Originally Posted by Eco-BEAST 28
could you or anyone reading share your opinion on installing a 170 degree thermostat? Is it something you would recommend, are they worth the $60, any brands in particular?
If your engine is not overheating then I don’t think this is a worthwhile change yet. there are around 15 tables just for Engine Coolant Temp. So if one was going to add in a 160* thermostat, they have a lot to do to get it to work right. And most of those tables are not defined yet. We tried the 160deg and its just too low and threw a CEL for “insufficient coolant temp”. Basically the lower tstat delays the amount of time before the engine cooling system is saturated and unable to shed heat. However these computers are very sensitive and there is a myriad of maps in the computer that do different things when cold. you may run into issues if you don't monitor your ECT "Engine Coolant Temp” - the computer expects that ~77C is normal operating temp... so really anything below that and the PCM will start doing things it normally wouldn't. There are specific values set for table switching set by the degrees of ECT. If you are running a thermostat below these temps or your new radiator does not allow you to get up to the set value you may not reach all your maps.



typical highway driving (on our truck) is around 85C (180-190F) with the AC off and around 200F with AC on

typical high load towing temperatures are around 95-100C (220F-230F)

I realize its not 'textbook' but drilling a 9/64 or smaller hole in the thermostat plate, may be a good experiment. I didn’t mess with our stocker yet but ive had more than a few people recommend to try this. Once we pull the 160 out and put the stocker back in I may try a 170 but may also try the stocker with a hole. dont know yet would love to hear what is working for other people (since im sure there are guys who are able to overheat their stock trucks trailering around 10k)




Originally Posted by ECO.BEAST
So slightly off topic, but I have purchased the FR intercooler, SCT, drop in air filter (all on order from FR) and FR exhaust (received yesterday and it looks great.
Today I had a base line Dyno done so I could show you guys the before and after with these power adders... My concern is that I'm a good 50 ft/lbs and 20 rwhp below what I'm seeing most manufacturers of power adders posting as their base line Dyno... All pulls were done in 2nd gear... in manual mode.
hey Eco.Beast -- those #s are actually pretty good for 2nd gear runs starting at 4k rpm! For the record - stock computer F150s must be dyno tested in 3rd gear (due to speed limiter) *however* the most accurate results will come from dyno testing in 4th gear because its closest to 1:1 and has the lowest frictional losses. SCT tuner can disable your 100mph speed limiter and allow proper dyno testing in 4th gear!


Originally Posted by cptbimes
You need to load the rollers way earlier and dyno in manual 4th. Peak tq with the ecoboost is like 2500 rpm. You're starting your dyno runs at 4k
Originally Posted by 13'TwinScrew
^^^Good numbers for second, lol. 3rd and 4th are what should be used....4th is the closest to 1:1 I think....I think you hit the speed limiter in 4th un-tuned though. Your runs needed to be at least in 3rd gear.
Originally Posted by 13'TwinScrew
Swap to manual mode, like they said load the rollers lock it into 3rd or4th(which you really need a tune--you should hit the speed limiter before 6K rpms if not)....make SURE you are at like 1800-2K rpms rolling and then when they tell you to....hammer it all the way to ~6K rpms------LET THE ROLLERS SLOW THE TRUCK DOWN ON THEIR OWN



Originally Posted by ECO.BEAST
I went back for another baseline Dyno this morning. Much better than last time. All runs were done in 3rd gear, (can't complete a 4th gear run because you hit 100mph speed limiter). Ambient air temperature was 81*F with 49%RH. Much better. Thanks for the tips! Now that the baseline is done I'll be installing the exhaust asap, and the intercooler as soon as I get it from FR.

good start, please keep posting up your results! If you have some time to kill, my friend Dave Pratte @ modified magazine wrote a great article on dyno testing and gears/drivetrain losses: http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...s/viewall.html

Originally Posted by ECO.BEAST
FR offers the BBK Performance Power Plus Throttle Body (linked) $400
BBK claims 8-12 hp increase... can anyone back this up? How much larger is this 73mm TB than stock?
some people on this forum dislike BBK for whatever reason but I believe this TB upgrade will compliment our FMIC kits. Some measurements people are overlooking:


-Stock TB is 68mm
-Intake manifold’s TB opening is 73mm
-Full-Race Intercooler’s 3” cold side charge piping is 72.9mm ID (3” / 76.2mm OD)

Originally Posted by VA Raptor
Full Race has had intercoolers available for the 2013's for sometime now, but you need to use an external BOV. They're working on an adapter that will allow you to use the factory one though.
correct – we also are releasing an adaptor to make it easier to add vacuum lines/accessories such as boost gauge, external bov etc to the 2013-2014


Originally Posted by EcoboostDave
I just want to be able to run the stock BOV.. it will come down to who makes one available to use the stock BOV. Oh and ease of installation is important to.
Originally Posted by VA Raptor
Gotcha. I'm the same way in that I really have no interest in adding an external BOV.

Noted, thanks gents.



Originally Posted by EcoboostDave
Oh and ease of installation is important to.

We spent a lot of time and effort to ensure the Full-Race F150 intercooler is easy to install. Less work than any of the import car IC kits we sell.. in fact getting the stock IC out is more difficult than installing ours. Follow the instructions here http://www.full-race.com/articles/Ho...ce-upgrade.php and post up if you have any questions.


Originally Posted by Eco-BEAST 28
I really feel like this is the only IC for my vehicle that allows me to offroad the way i do. Well, as much as i can with mid travel suspension lol
totally off topic: mid travel suspension is the way to go for a daily driver / tow vehicle / street truck but OMG a full-race equipped EB F150 with long travel kit and some glass fenders with deaver leaf packs on canti shocks under the bed would be sooo much win. Lots of options but I suppose most people into F150 ecoboosts do not attend desert races or see prerunners/trophy trucks like in the SW

have a great weekend everyone

Last edited by Full-Race Geoff; 08-23-2013 at 02:38 PM.
Old 08-23-2013, 03:23 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by Full-Race Geoff
both of you guys are still using stock cats and stock downpipes, right?
That is correct sir. Stock DPs with resonated FR exhaust and FR IC.

For those who have had the condensation problem, will the increased throttle body size of the upgraded one make that issue more prevalent as more air is taken in? Other than 8-12HP, what are some of the benefits for upgrading?
Old 08-23-2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Full-Race Geoff

both of you guys are still using stock cats and stock downpipes, right?
Yes sir! Resonated FR exhaust (ahh, the quiet) with a Wagner IC. Even under hard throttle I just don't notice exhaust sound and I love it that way!
Old 08-23-2013, 04:48 PM
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FR Geoff, thanks for a wealth of knowledge. Will be ordering your exhaust in the near future but before ordering just wondering if you would come out with a black painted/rustproof type version. I have no problem doing this myself but if something is going to be offered I would wait for that. Thanks again for your input on the forum.
Old 08-24-2013, 12:50 AM
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Ive been meaning to ask this geoff, on the freakoboost are you guys getting any axle wrap with the added power and bigger a/ts? I cant remember if you have a 1 piece driveshaft or not or even if it matters. I get some bad hop/wrap even with stock tires and only fmic, exhaust and 93 oct tune. Im addicted bad to sled pulling and some tracks if its really hard i can get into some bad wrap and hop but if it hooks well i can shut the chevy 6.0 crowd up quick.

for poops/giggles here the pull from last night - 3rd place in street stock - 328ft. if geoff would send free stuff Icough..tires...cough) id gladly add bigger full-race decals on my truck


Last edited by Bonesoftitanium; 08-24-2013 at 01:13 AM.
Old 08-24-2013, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Tora
FR Geoff, thanks for a wealth of knowledge. Will be ordering your exhaust in the near future but before ordering just wondering if you would come out with a black painted/rustproof type version. I have no problem doing this myself but if something is going to be offered I would wait for that. Thanks again for your input on the forum.
I agree, a black powder-coated exhaust tip would be a fantastic option.

But "rustproof"? It's stainless!
Old 08-24-2013, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ECO.BEAST

I agree, a black powder-coated exhaust tip would be a fantastic option.

But "rustproof"? It's stainless!
Vht high temp flat black, paint section at advance auto. Works great.

Fr intercooler arrived two minutes ago, time to do this mod!
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